|
Just as sports fans never tire of debating the relative merits of history's
best players, wine lovers often argue about which grapes make the world's
best wines. I've been embroiled in such conversations on many occasions,
and thus it was with great interest that I recently encountered a new
approach to the issue while talking with a noted winemaker. As we were
pursuing another topic, he noted that one way to assess the nobility of
a grape variety is by considering whether the wine it makes would be improved
by blending with wine from another grape, or whether blending could only
diminish the finished product. This point raised a question that I had
to ask him: What are the white and red grape varieties that appear supremely
noble when viewed in this light? His response: Riesling and Pinot Noir.
I think that is exactly right. We'll leave the winemaker nameless here,
since his winery doesn't even produce Riesling or Pinot Noir, and since
his bosses might not be as pleased with his answer as I am. Although his
idea won't end the debate once and for all (I look forward to hearing
from the Cabernet contingent in the online show at noon today), it is
especially helpful for conveying why I adore Riesling above all other
white grapes: When well made from a prime site in a great growing season,
Riesling can produce wine of such purity, complexity, symmetry and intrinsic
completeness that oaking it or adding wine from any other grape would
be absolutely inconceivable and obviously barbaric.
Even the Australians -- who will blend almost anything with anything --
appear to recognize this. They make fine Rieslings and value them highly,
as do the Austrians and the Alsatians. But it is in Germany that the most
complex and completely unblendable Rieslings are made.
The only problem is that Germany's greatest Riesling regions are so far
north that fully and evenly ripening the grapes before the growing season
ends is an act that nearly defies nature. It can only be accomplished
on a favorable site with massive effort and great skill, and even then
only when weather conditions are favorable. And as we know all too well
around here, weather conditions are not always favorable.
So it is with both amazement and great pleasure that I report that Germany
has enjoyed another outstanding vintage for Riesling in 2002, hard on
the heels of the astonishingly great vintage of 2001. Some believe that
2002 is actually better, whereas others think this is true only in certain
regions and that 2001 remains stronger overall. I'm provisionally inclined
toward the latter view, though I intend to continue researching the 2002s
very, very thoroughly.
In any case, the 2002s that have just arrived here are indisputably wonderful.
In the first installment of recommendations below, I've focused on German
Rieslings made from grapes picked at the "Kabinett" level of
ripeness. These offer the perfect point of entry for the as-yet-unconverted,
as the wines are lightly sweet but still clean and food-friendly. Moreover,
good Kabinetts can be nearly as profound as wines from the riper Spatlese
and Auslese levels, but still remain light, fun and affordable.
I'll be back in two weeks with additional recommendations that will help
you to branch out from Kabinetts in several different directions (e.g.,
to Trocken and Halbtrocken wines if you want to try something drier, to
Spatlese wines if you want something sweeter and to QbA bottlings if you
want something even more affordable). Recommended Kabinett bottlings are
listed in order of preference below, with parenthetical indications of
growing regions, approximate prices and D.C. wholesalers ("P"
for Potomac Selections):
OUTRAGEOUSLY WONDERFUL KABINETTS (excerpt)
Fritz Haag Riesling Kabinett Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)($26,
P):
A masterful performance by a master vintner, this wine shows the most
exquisite integration and purity and sheer class of any wine tasted in
this category. It does not seem possible that a wine so complex could
also be so seamless, but here's your proof. Gorgeous but, sadly, quite
limited in availability.
Schloss Lieser Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) ($18, P):
Fabulously mineral in character from the very first whiff through the
long, lovely finish.
Dr. F. Weins-Prüm Riesling Kabinett Wehlener Sonnenuhr (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)
($19, P):
A gorgeous wine that shows more impressively at every stage of the experience,
building from subtle aromas to a gentle first palate impression to substantial
flavors and finally to a strong, symmetrical, extraordinarily long finish.
Reichsrat von Buhl "Armand" Riesling Kabinett (Pfalz)
($17, P):
Another almost frightening Pfalzer, this packs all sorts of muscle and
shows it in the form of very powerful flavors and a remarkably long finish,
and yet the wine is really quite surprisingly graceful, like a really
big guy who is an excellent skier.
Milz Riesling Kabinett Neumagener Nusswingert (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)($20,
P):
I'm embarrassed to admit that this producer has -- heretofore -- somehow
flown under my radar, which is calibrated to detect wines just like this
one. Powerful but poised and pretty all at once, this shows gorgeous pure
fruit, great acid balance, nice mineral notes and excellent length.
ALMOST AS OUTRAGEOUSLY WONDERFUL KABINETTS
Dr. F. Weins-Prüm Riesling Kabinett Graacher Domprobst (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)($17,
P);
Bert Simon Riesling Kabinett Serrig Herrenberg(Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)
($16, P);
Zilliken Riesling Kabinett Saarburger Rausch (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)
($20, P).
Rudi Wiest Selections
by Cellars International, Inc.
phone 760.566.0499 - info@germanwine.net - fax 760.566.0533
Copyright © 1993 - 2005
|
