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Fine Wine Review
by Claude Kolm, Issue Number 78 and 82
on 1999 German Vintage

THE FINE WINE REVIEW
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All writing and opinions in THE FINE WINE REVIEW, unless otherwise indicated,
are solely those of its owner, CLAUDE KOLM, who has not interest, direct or indirect,
in the wholesale or retail sale of wine.
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The Fine Wine Review uses a 0 - 100 point scale broadly classifying along a continuum, with scores in the upper 90s for truly exceptional wines, wines scoring below 80 as poor and wines below 75 being unacceptable. As a second set of notations, A through F, the wines are examined for typicality of the wine and the expectations for that class or appellation of wine, A being outstanding, and F describing an unacceptable wine.

Mönchhof (Mosel valley)

1999 Mönchhof Estate Riesling
(from Ürziger Würzgarten) Is pure and spicy in the nose and on the palate with apple and pear flavors, a little creaminess to the texture, and nice, prickly acidity.
Scored 89 points. Fine Wine Review  #78.

1999 Mönchhof Astor Kabinett
(from Ürziger Würzgarten) Is more powerful and complex in the nose. There is a nice attack on entry, followed by creaminess on midpalate. The wine is medium-dry in the mouth with chewiness and fresh, grapy fruit.  Scored 89+ points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Mönchhof Ürziger Würzgarten Spätlese
Is a smoother wine with spiced pear and apple fruit and greater approachability. The aromas are lively, spicy, and flowery. Scored 92+ points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Mönchhof Erdener Prälat Auslese
Has hints of nutshells in the nose, and a powerful, rich body, but still with elegance, in fact more than in the Treppchen. The wine is loaded with buttery and caramel flavors and aromas from the botrytis. Scored 95 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Mönchhof Erdener Prälat GKA
Has strong botrytis and is very much a gold cap style, with lovely filigreed fruit and a creamy texture, supported by fine acidity. Scored 96 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Mönchhof Erdener Prälat BA - Is BA in type with full-blown botrytis, a dense, creamy texture, and no flabbiness. This is a truly great wine! Scored 97 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

Milz - Laurentiushof (Mosel valley)
1999 Milz Piesporter Hofberg Kabinett
Light and delicate. Scored 86 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Milz Trittenheimer Apotheke Eiswein
Displays the concentrated lemon-lime Riesling flavors and aromas of Eiswein. The acidity is present and correct, and although certainly less than one finds in many other vintages, it balances the sweetness. This is a disarming dessert already. Scored 95 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

Bert Simon
1999 Bert Simon Serriger Herrenberg Kabinett
This wine has cassis leaf aromas and flavors, a surprisingly rich texture, and outstanding length. Scored 91 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Bert Simon Serriger Herrenberg Spätlese
Shows plenty of  botrytis to go with the peach and cassis fruit and a rich texture. This is a little Auslese in style. Scored 92 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Bert Simon Serriger Herrenberg Auslese
Shows botrytis and spice on the nose, apricots on the palate, richness, and length, making for a very attractive wine. Scored 90 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Bert Simon Serriger Würtzberg GKA
Is quite noble with plenty of botrytis and a rich round, powerful body with notable sweetness to go with the peach and pear fruit. Scored 93 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

Zilliken

1999 Zilliken Estate Riesling Med-Dry
Has very pure fruit pear and gooseberry fruit with mineral aspects. The wine is quite ripe on the palate. It is a big wine, but balanced, and should do splendidly with a variety of foods.
Scored 88 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Kabinett
Has mineral and gooseberry aromas and flavors with depth, elegance, richness and suave texture-the result of a slow fermentation here. Scored 91 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Spätlese
Is slightly sweet with elegance, finesse and length. Scored 92 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Auslese
Very pure and elegant, just what one would want and expect from the Saar.
Scored 95 points. Fine Wine Review #78.

1999 Zilliken Saarburger Rausch GKA
The wine has dried fruit aromas and flavors, peaches, pears, and apricots, to be specific. The wine is lively and concentrated. Scored 97 points. Fine Wine Review # 78/82.

von Hövel
1999 von Hövel Oberemmeler Hütte Kabinett
Has a lovely floral nose. On the palate, then wine is rich but clean and pure with stony slate flavors. Scored 91 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 von Hövel Oberemmeler Hütte Spätlese
Has floral aromas with stony and spiced overtones. The acidity is decent with a round fullness to the wine and filigree quality to the peach fruit. This really is Auslese in style.
Scored 93 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 von Hövel Oberemmeler Hütte Auslese
Has fresh gooseberry and cassis fruit, a richness on the palate, but still the special elegance of the Saar. Scored 92 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 von Hövel Oberemmeler Hütte BA
Shows excellent acidity and concentration. Scored 94 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

Schloss Lieser (Mosel valley)
1999 Schloss Lieser Estate Riesling Medium-Dry
Shows crystalline purity to the pear fruit and lovely balance with a nice acidity and good concentration. The grapes come from the Bernkasteler Schlossberg vineyard.
Scored 88 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Schloss Lieser Estate Kabinett
Is pure and clean, again with a crystalline quality to the nervy pear and lime fruit and with a little minerality. Scored 89 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Kabinett
Has more minerality and depth than the preceding wine and is fuller on the palate, although still with good supporting acidity. Flavors here are pear, earth, and cassis.
Scored 89 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Spätlese
Shows deep cassis aromas, moderate sweetness with nervy and apple and lime flavors. Again nice acidity. Scored 93 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Auslese
Has grapefruit aromas and a juicy texture. Scored 91 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Auslese
Shows a light, lacy wine with sweetness and incipient peach fruit, very much in the Schloss Lieser style. Scored 92 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden GKA
Pure and deep with excellent acidity supporting the elegant honeyed fruit. The wine is fine and lively in the mouth. Scored 93 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

Reinhold Haart (Mosel valley)

1999 Reinhold Haart Estate Riesling
Has pure mineral aromas, and spiced peach fruit on the palate for a lovely combination.
Scored 90 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Reinhold Haart Piesporter Kabinett
Shows perfumed peach fruit. Scored 87 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Reinhold Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Kabinett
Has the slate and peach nose typical of this great vineyard, and greater focus….. to its powerful peach fruit. The acidity is correct and there is an elegance in the mouth, without fatness or dilution. The flavors are of slate and minerals. Scored 92 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Reinhold Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Spätlese
Is higher-toned with plenty of slate in the nose. On the palate, the wine has good acidity and no lack of concentration with the elegant mineral, peach fruit. Scored 94 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Reinhold Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Auslese
Has mineral aromas with hints of raw beef. The wine shows good acidity and typical, deep, pure peach and mineral fruit and some honey. This is not heavy or overwhelming, but rather a wine of contemplation. Scored 95 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

Karthäuserhof (Ruwer valley)

1999 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Kabinett
Is a different lot from on I previously reviewed. Acidity is low here, so the wine must be drunk properly chilled. There is a great extract in this wine, though, yielding an atypical (because it is not nervous) rendition of the typical stony, filigreed fruit form this vineyard. Scored 90 points. Fine Wine Review #82

1999 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Spätlese
Shows a nice sugar/acid balance with a juicy texture and pear and cassis fruit.
Scored 88 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Auslese - Displays slate and cassis fruit, good balance, and some sweetness. Scored 90 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

Joh. Jos. Prüm (Mosel valley)

1999 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett
Has wonderful stony fruit and great penetration with nervosity and medium acidity, and more power than the Graacher. Scored 94 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese
Is elegant with a creaminess to its texture, nice acidity, and flavors that go on forever.
Scored 92-95 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

Fritz Haag (Mosel valley)

1999 Fritz Haag Estate Riesling Medium-Dry
Really is halbtrocken in style, although not so labeled. The wine is pure, slatey, earthy, deep, and penetrating. Great with light foods. Scored 89 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Kabinett
Is dazzling for its pure, penetrating pear, quince and peach fruit. Scored 92 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Spätlese
Has perfumed quince aromas, liveliness from the acidity, filigree fruit, and an overall combination of power and elegance. 
Scored 94 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Auslese
Is powerful, deep…. The nose has slate fruit aromas with hints of grapefruit, and on the palate, the wine shows liveliness, elegance, purity, and depth. Scored 96 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr GKA
Is simply the perfect Auslese: the elegance, balance, depth and harmony are taken to yet a higher level. Scored 98 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

Wegeler (Mosel valley)

1999 Wegeler Estate Riesling
Is fresh and floral in the nose. On the palate, the wine shows peaches and cream with a slight plumpness. Scored 89 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Wegeler Estate Spätlese
Has sharp, intense slate/lime texture, a nice calmness, and lovely mineral peach flavors.
Scored 92 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Wegeler Bernkasteler Doctor Spätlese
Has honeyed peach pit and apricot aromas and flavors plus mineral overtones; and grater power, more depth, and more acid. Scored 95 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

1999 Wegeler Bernkasteler Doctor Auslese
Has deep white peach aromas with mineral overtones. On the palate, the texture is harder with good acidity, elegance, concentration, and length to the ripe peach and pear fruit. A great wine. Scored 96 points. Fine Wine Review # 78.

Wegeler (Rheigau region)
1999 Wegeler Estate Riesling Med-Dry (Rheingau)
Is rich in the palate. Scored 86 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Wegeler Estate Kabinett (Rheingau)
Has apple and pear aromas and flavors with less aggressiveness than the preceding wine and very good length. Scored 90 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Wegeler Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Spätlese (Rheingau)
Has a strong, layered sweet pear and pineapple fruit with plenty of race and elegance. It is an ideal Rheingau Spätlese. Scored 93 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Wegeler Geisenheimer Rothenberg Auslese (Rheingau)
Is richer with plenty of sweetness and more of an edge - the wine is half from botrytised grapes. On the palate, there is elegance, and one could either drink this on its own, already or with a meal. Scored 95 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

Robert Weil (Rheigau region)
1999 Robert Weil Estate Riesling Dry
Is floral and round in the nose, with a chewy, dense texture, and mineral fruit of depth.
Scored 89 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Robert Weil Estate Kabinett Med-Dry
Has mineral fruit with a dense chewiness to the texture. Scored 88 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Robert Weil Estate Spätlese
Is elegant, perfumed, and beautifully balanced with plum fruit - not terribly sweet.
Scored 91 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Robert Weil Estate Spätlese Dry
Has mineral and grapefruit aromas, a dense chewy texture with plenty of mineral fruit.
Scored 91 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Robert Weil Kiedricher Gräfenberg Spätlese Dry
Shows higher acidity to the dense, deep, texture with plenty of mineral fruit. Scored 94 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Robert Weil Kiedricher Gräfenberg Auslese
Is very pure and noble with botrytis very evident on the nose, and in the pure apricot and dried fig flavors on the rich palate. Scored 97 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Robert Weil Kiedricher Gräfenberg BA
Is a model of its type, with intense, knife-sharp honeyed peach aromas and flavors, supported by acidity that is nothing less than remarkable for the vintage. The wine already is drinkable but should last for decades. Scored 98 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Robert Weil Kiedricher Gräfenberg Eiswein
Shows essence of Riesling aromas and flavors in a dense, chewy texture. Here is one estate that took the trouble to sort the botrytis-infected grapes out from the Eiswein. Scored 97 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

Franz Künstler (Rheigau region)
1999 Franz Künstler Estate Riesling Med-Dry
Shows mineral and petrol aromas, medium concentration, very moderate acidity, and mineral flavors with tropical overtones. Scored 87 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Franz Künstler Hochheimer Reichestal Kabinett
The wine is elegant, even gentle and shows an almost Spätlese-like sweetness (alcohol is only 7.0% an indication of how much sugar remained unfermented). The wine features pretty white peach flavors and aromas with a hint of allspice to it. Scored 91 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Franz Künstler Hochheimer Kirchenstück Spätlese
Shows quite ripe apple and quince fruit and a little sweetness.
Scored 91 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Franz Künstler Hochheimer Hölle Auslese
Is honeyed and rich, with botrytis quite evident. Scored 91 point. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Franz Künstler Hochheimer Hölle BA
Is lovely and easy to drink now with ripe, fully botrytised fruit.
Scored 95 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Franz Künstler Hochheimer Hölle GKBA
seems a touch higher in acidity and fresher, but still seems to be a BA for current consumption. Scored 96 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

von Buhl (Pfalz region)
1999 von Buhl "Maria Schneider Jazz" Riesling Med-Dry
Has the Maria Schneider label and is sold with a CD. The wine shows mineral aromas with some Pfalz earth to them and a lovely, light, nervy body with young, refreshing grape flavors.
Scored 87 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 von Buhl "Armand" Kabinett
Has depth to the mineral peach fruit. Scored 92 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 von Buhl Estate Spätlese Dry
Has lovely floral aromas and a minerality to the fruit on the palate. The wine has acidity, but also a gentleness to it, and fine length. Scored 91 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 von Buhl Maria Schneider Spätlese Dry
Is recognizable by the picture of a saxophone on the label, indicting that the wine was selected by the talented jazz composer and arranger Maria Schneider, a protégé of the late Gil Evans (and the wine is sold in conjunction with a special CD of hers). This wine has transparent minerality with some earthiness, a fair degree of power and lovely supporting acidity.
Scored 91 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 von Buhl Forster Kirchenstück Spätlese
There is great depth and penetration to the floral, slightly earthly fruit.
Scored 94 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 von Buhl Deidesheimer Mäushöhle Spätlese Dry
Shows round, mineral and earth aromas and pure white peach flavors. This is elegant.
Scored 93 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 von Buhl Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Spätlese Dry
Is worthy successor to the great 1998 here. The wine has floral lime blossom fruit, very good balance (but only 6.80 g/l), a nice tightness to its structure, and liveliness to it. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer Auslese
Is off dry in flavor with peach fruit and some spice. The vintage was such that even this wine had some botrytis, although it is the "classic" bottling that is generally reserved for botrytis.
Scored 94 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer Auslese "Classic"
I find acidity to balance the sugar and botrytis. Scored 92 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer BA
Has pretty, pure peach fruit. Scored 94+ points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 von Buhl Forster Ungeheuer Eiswein
Is classic Eiswein with piercing, essence of Riesling fruit. Scored 97 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

Emrich-Schönleber (Nahe region)
1999 Emrich-Schönleber Estate Riesling Med-Dry
Is floral with good acidity and decent concentration to the mineral fruit. No sweetness is detectable, just more roundness than in the trocken wines.
Scored 87 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Emrich-Schönleber Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Spätlese Dry
Has floral and baked apple fruit with more acidity and depth than the Halenberg.
Scored 91 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Emrich-Schönleber Monzinger Halenberg Spätlese
Has floral and lime fruit, spiciness, a juicy texture, delicacy and a touch of sweetness.
There is juiciness to the texture. Scored 93 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Emrich-Schönleber Monzinger Halenberg Auslese
Has honeyed aromas and flavors from the strong botrytis, and much more power than the previous wine. Great length here. Scored 95 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Emrich-Schönleber Monzinger Halenberg Eiswein
The wine shows honeyed fruit from botrytis. Scored 93 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

Gunderloch (Rheinhessen region)
1999 Gunderloch Estate Riesling Dry

Is even more mineral with great purity and even a touch of all spice to it. This is a great food wine. Scored 87 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Gunderloch "Jean Baptiste" Kabinett
Has perfume and allspice aromas, a nice acidity and pure mineral fruit, plys plenty of depth. Scored 91 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Gunderloch Nackenheimer Rothenberg Spätlese
Similarly should be much more approachable with 3-5 years of aging. The wine is quite elegant with a lovely delicate fruit that the Germans refer to as filigreed. Allspice in the nose and mouth and pure ripe peach flavors make this wine most alluring. Scored 93 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Gunderloch Nackenheimer Rothenberg Auslese
Is simply a great wine. The grapes were 100% botrytised, and there is great depth, harmony, and potential to this wine. For now, I perceive ripe peach and apricot fruit and an elegance, almost like a Mosel wine. Scored 96 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Gunderloch Nackenheimer Rothenberg GKA
This wine is richer and creamier with botrytis honey and apricot flavors of great intensity and length in the mouth and on the finish. Scored 96 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Gunderloch Nackenheimer Rothenberg TBA
Caramel flavors and great sweetness and density to it. Scored 96 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Balbach Nierstein Oelberg Eiswein
The wine is quite lovely with pure peach flavors and quite decent acidity, but without what I call the essence-of-Riesling quality typical of Eiswein and with some apparent botrytis, which I do not favor in Eiswein. A lovely dessert, in any case. Scored 93 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

Meyer-Näkel (Ahr valley)
1999 Meyer-Näkel Dornfelder

Is a variety that ideally yields a dark, fairly concentrated wine with good acidity and black berry flavors. It is a rustic wine (as implied by the peasant-like, bottle that resembles a large beer bottle), but carries charm for many drinkers. If you like Dornfelder, this is one of the best that I have tasted, with nice balance and depth to the berryish fruit. Some have compared Dornfelder with grand cru Beaujolais, but to me Chinon would be a closer fit. Scored 85 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Meyer-Näkel Frühburgunder
Is also known as Clevener in Germany (and apparently not to be confused with Klevner in Alsace which can be called Pinot Blanc). It is early ripening mutation of Pinot Noir. The grape here yields a red wine of medium color with a medium light texture, elegance, and truffly, red berry fruit flavors that bear astonishing resemblance to Pinot Noir. Burgundy fanatics ought to seek this wine out - it is a real eye opener! Scored 88 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

1999 Meyer-Näkel Spätburgunder S
Is Meyer-Näkel's Pinot Noir that is made for the longest aging, and probably, in theory, his best wine. I find this one a little herbaceous in the nose, although the firmness and density on the palate, together with cassis and strawberry fruit, are of interest. Scored 86 points. Fine Wine Review #82.

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