Mönchhof / Robert Eymael
Mosel region
Once again, a successful year for Robert Eymael, who has now also taken
on rental of the J.J. Christoffel estate which largely has mirror holdings,
in fact many of which once belonged to the same owners as Mönchhof's.
I asked Robert about the differences between the two estates, and he said
that there is no one major difference, just a number of small ones.
Mönchhof 2003 'ASTOR' Riesling Kabinett ÜRZIGER
WÜRZGARTEN
Sharper and spicier in the nose with excellent bite on the finish, but
lacks a touch of sharpness in the middle. Score:
88/ B+ FWR 102
Mönchhof 2003 Riesling Spätlese ERDENER
TREPPCHEN
Sweet and round with lime flavors and relatively rich, but shows even
less bite than the Kabinett.
Score: 90/ B+ FWR 102
Mönchhof 2003 Riesling Spätlese ÜRZIGER
WÜRZGARTEN
Shows typical spicy aromas, followed in the mouth by spicy, nervy lime
flavors, elegance, and firmness with fine length. Score:
92/A FWR 102
Mönchhof 2003 Riesling Auslese ERDENER TREPPCHEN
Shows fine attack from its acidity with ripe fruit that borders on tropical
in characterization plus clean, pure lemon flavors. No botrytis here.
Score: 92(+)/B+ FWR 102
Mönchhof 2003 Riesling Auslese ÜRZIGER
WÜRZGARTEN
Complex slate, spice, hazelnut aromas, followed in the mouth by pure lemon
and lime flavors that are quite racy and elegant with fine length. A very
successful wine. Score: 93(+)/A- FWR 102
Mönchhof 2003 Riesling Auslese ERDENER PRÄLAT
Deep pure and long with slate/mineral aromas and flavors that are ripe
but racy, and notable length.
Score: 94(+)/A FWR 102
Mönchhof 2003 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese
ERDENER PRÄLAT
This Erdener Prälat TBA is rich and botrytised with great weight,
clarity, and acidity underlying its sweet, honeyed fruit. It is impossible
not to enjoy now, but its real future lies 30-40 years into the this century.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 016 04.
Score: 97/A FWR 106
Reinhold Haart Mosel
region
Theo Haart (now ably joined by his son, Johannes) has a very good collection,
but I have some question about the fanciest wines and whether they aimed
for more than the vintage could give.
Reinhold Haart 2003 HAART TO HEART Riesling
Lovely ripe apricot nose, and is firm and elegant on the palate with apricot
flavors.
Score: 90/A FWR 102
Reinhold Haart 2003 Riesling Kabinett PIESPORTER
More intense and broader and riper in its apricot aromas. In the mouth,
the wine is pretty, delicate, and lacy with finesse to the subtle peach
and apricot fruit, plus a long finish.
Score: 90/A FWR 102
Reinhold Haart 2003 Riesling Spätlese PIESPORTER
A.P. Nr.: 6/04
Deeper peach and apricot in the nose, but less breadth. In the mouth,
the wine has pear and apple overtones with a filigree quality to the fruit.
Score: 90/ B+ FWR 102
Reinhold Haart 2003 Riesling Spätlese DHRONHOFBERGER A.P. Nr.: 8/04
A step up in quality, showing a deep, pure, complex nose, and outstanding
purity, depth, and clarity to the peach and apple fruit, with notable
length. The texture is almost sappy, except that the wine is too elegant
for such a description.
Score: 93/A FWR 102
Reinhold Haart 2003 Riesling Spätlese WINTRICHER
OHLIGSBERG 'Erste Lage'
peach, apricot, and apple aro-mas and flavors with a dense, pure concentrated
palate and calmness to the wine. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 9/04.
Score: 95/A+ FWR 102
Reinhold Haart 2003 Riesling Spätlese PIESPORTER
GOLDTRÖPFCHEN 'Erste Lage' A.P. Nr.: 10/04
shows apricot aromas, but it is more closed than the foregoing. In the
mouth, it has a creamy texture with elegant apricot cream flavors, but
less power than one usually finds.
Score: 94/A FWR 102
Reinhold Haart 2003 Riesling Spätlese PIESPORTER
GOLDTRÖPFCHEN 'Erste Lage' A.P. Nr.: 11 04
This is a different Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Spätlese from that
which I previously reviewed. It is quite sweet, indeed more like an Auslese,
but still unformed. Leave this wine in the cellar for 6-8 years, minimum.
Score: 91(+)/A- FWR 106
Reinhold Haart 2003 Riesling Auslese PIESPORTER DOMHERR
Closed in the nose, but again shows finesse in the mouth. The flavors,
although fine, are not as strongly characterized as in some of the previous
wines, and as a result, the wine is lacy, but also lacking a touch of
intensity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12/04.
Score: 92/ B+ FWR 102
Reinhold Haart 2003 Riesling Auslese PIESPORTER GOLDTRÖPFCHEN
Auslese A.P. Nr.: 14/04
This Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Auslese is not designated Erste Lage,
yet I thought it the best of his Auslese that I was shown because it did
the best job with the conditions of the vintage. The wine shows great
inten-sity to its fresh, mineral apricot and peach fruit. Additionally,
there is an elegance and intensity that makes this a beautiful Auslese.
Score: 95/A FWR 102
Reinhold Haart 2003 Riesling Auslese PIESPORTER GOLDTRÖPFCHEN
Auslese 'Erste Lage'
In contrast, this one, only bottled five days before I tasted it,
shows apple aromas and is dry on the palate, but nervy, too. There are
16 g/l residual sugar and the wine is 13% alcohol, I suspect not quite
the right balance.
Score: 89?/B- FWR 102
Reinhold Haart 2003 Riesling Spätlese PIESPORTER
GOLDTRÖPFCHEN 'Erste Lage' ('Auction')
The 'Auction' Erste Lage Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Spätlese,
in contrast, is so sweet that it seems to be an Auslese. In fact, the
sweetness seems to dominate the wine, and just as the previous wine was
not sufficiently sweet, this one seems to be too sweet, another miscalculation?
Score: 91?/B FWR 102
Reinhold Haart 2003 Riesling Auslese PIESPORTER GOLDTRÖPFCHEN
Auslese ('Gold Kapsule')
Just bottled five days prior to my tasting. While still closed in the
nose, the wine shows botrytis on the palate and is very sweet and honeyed
with much more power than the preceding wines.
Score: 94/A FWR 102
Fritz Haag Mosel region
The news here is that Wilhelm Haag's son Thomas will stay with Schloss
Lieser, and son Olivier is leaving Wegeler to work with his father and
will succeed him at this estate. Wilhelm does not agree with those who
compare 2003 to 1959 (and he was there), except in the sense that both
are low acid vintages. He would put the vintage in equal thirds of 1959,
1990, and 1975 (the last for its elegance).
Fritz Haag 2003 Riesling Spätlese BRAUNEBERGER
JUFFER-SONNENUHR A.P. Nr.: 7 04.
Shows a typical spicy, ginger nose, followed by concentration and power,
but also great finesse on the palate - a fine example of the terroir here,
with length depth, grip, and charm, but a lesser wine than Haag produces
in most vintages.
Score: 90/ B+ FWR 102
Fritz Haag 2003 Riesling Auslese #6 BRAUNEBERGER
JUFFER-SONNENUHR A.P. Nr.: 6-04.
Displays a great nose of stony fruit, and in the mouth is round, pure,
stony, spicy, and elegant.
Score: 93/A- FWR 102
Fritz Haag 2003 Riesling Spätlese BRAUNEBERGER
JUFFER-SONNENUHR ('Auction')
A.P. Nr.: 14 04. - Shows hazelnut aromas and excellent grip in the mouth
with pure stony fruit, roundness, and elegance.
Score: 95/A FWR 102
Fritz Haag 2003 Riesling Auslese #10 BRAUNEBERGER
JUFFER-SONNENUHR
Minerality in its aromas and is more intense and mineral in the mouth
with medium sweetness and elegance. A superb wine. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 10 04.
Score: 95/A FWR 102
Fritz Haag 2003 Riesling Auslese #9 ('Gold Kapsule') BRAUNEBERGER
JUFFER-SONNENUHR
Doesn't show a lot of botrytis, but is elegant and riper and somewhat
sweeter than the foregoing wines. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 9-04.
Score: 92/ B+ FWR 102
Fritz Haag 2003 Riesling Auslese #12 ('Gold Kapsule') BRAUNEBERGER
JUFFER-SONNENUHR
Considerably more intense and more interesting with greater presence on
the palate, and again, very elegant. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12-04.
Score: 94/A FWR 102
Fritz Haag 2003 Riesling Auslese #13 ('Auction',
'Gold Kapsule') BRAUNEBERGER JUFFER-SONNENUHR
A.P. Nr.: 13 04
Shows minerality and vanilla overtones in its nose and mouth - very typical
of the vineyard. It has balance, finesse, elegance, charm, and laciness,
making for a subtle and complete wine.
Score: 95/A FWR 102
Fritz Haag 2003 Riesling Auslese #15 ('Auction',
'Long Gold Kapsule') BRAUNEBERGER JUFFER-SONNENUHR
Shows strong botrytis in both nose and mouth with length, elegance, and
a beautiful harmonious-ness. One of the classics of the vintage.
Score: 97/ A+ FWR 102
Fritz Haag 2003 Riesling
Haag's Riesling is really a halbtrocken made from a preharvest of the
grapes in the various vineyards. The wine has firmed up greatly since
I tasted it in summer 2004, and now is crisp and full of minerality with
enough supporting acidity to make the wine taste fully dry. Not complex,
but delicious, especially for picnics over then next few years. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 104
Score: 86(+)/ B+ FWR 106
von Hövel Saar valley
Less famous than some of its Saar neighbors, nevertheless von Hövel
consistently supplies some of the finest wines in the val-ley, and 2003
is no exception. All wines are natural acidity - Eberhard von Kunow said
that he did do some experiments with acidification but was not satisfied
with the results, and so he did not pursue it.
von Hövel 2003 BALDUIN VON HÖVEL Riesling
A.P. Nr.: 1 04
The Riesling tastes off-dry, but has 40 g/l residual sugar, a testament
to the acidity. The wine is fruity and firm with good acidity and should
be excellent for simple meals over the next few years.
Score: 87/A- FWR
102
von Hövel 2003 Riesling Kabinett OBEREMMELER
HÜTTE A.P. Nr.: 03 04
The Oberemmeler Hütte Kab is powerful for a Kab (but stated alcohol
is only 8.0%), off-dry in sweetness, with lively fruit and quite a bit
of elegance.
Score: 91/A- FWR
102
von Hövel 2003 Riesling Spätlese OBEREMMELER
HÜTTE
The Oberemmeler Hütte Spätlese shows fruit and sugar beautifully
underlined by the acidity giving a true filigree effect - delicate but
not fragile. The wine is fresh with stony fruit and a fair amount of sweetness.
A superb Spätlese. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 5 04.
Score: 94/A FWR
102
von Hövel 2003 Riesling Spätlese SCHARZHOFBERGER
I was less taken with the Scharzhofberger Spätlese, although it still
is enjoyable. Apple and vanilla aromas and flavors, but they are relatively
short and there is not as much support from the acidity. Last digits of
A.P. Nr.: 6 04.
Score: 88/B FWR
102
von Hövel 2003 Riesling Auslese OBEREMMELLER
HÜTTE
The Oberemmeler Hütte Auslese is sweet, elegant, and apply with good
acidity and length, a promising wine with a little age. Last digits of
A.P. Nr.: 7 04.
Score: 92+/ B+
FWR 102
von Hövel 2003 Riesling Auslese SCHARZHOFBERGER
The Scharzhofberger Auslese shows much better than the Spätlese with
apple blossom and smoke aromas and pure apple flavors with fine length.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 8 04.
Score: 93/A- FWR
102
von Hövel 2003 Riesling Auslese KANZEMER HÖHREDER
'Erste Lage' A.P. Nr.: 10 04
A vineyard that von Hövel rents. The wine is very long with less
body than the two previous wines, apply fruit, good nervosity, and overall
balance.
Score: 93/A-
FWR 102
von Hövel 2003 Riesling Auslese 'star'
OBEREMMELER HÜTTE A.P. Nr.: 9 04
The Oberemmeler Hütte Auslese 'star', meant to be below a 'Gold Kapsule'
in the hierarchy, shows great support from the acidity giving elegance
and filigree-quality fruit that is quite long. A superb effort.
Score: 94(+)/A
FWR 102
von Hövel 2003 Riesling Eiswein OBEREMMELER
HÜTTE A.P. Nr.: 13 04
I found the Oberemmeler Hütte Eiswein pleasing but too soft and juicy
and lacking the penetration and tightness of an Eiswein.
Score: 90/D FWR
102
von Hövel 2003 Riesling Gold Kapsule Auslese
('Auction') OBEREMMELER HÜTTE
Shows botrytis with brown sugar and apple flavors and plenty of complexity
but not the penetration or nervosity of the star.
Score: 91/B FWR
102
Karthäuserhof Ruwer valley
2003 is successful at this great estate, if atypical.
Karthäuserhof 2003 Riesling EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG
Is stony and spicy with soft acids and roundness. Atypical for the roundness,
but fine for drinking for at least 4-5 years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
05 04
Score: 87(+)/A- FWR 106
Karthäuserhof 2003 Riesling Auslese trocken
'S' EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG
The Auslese trocken "S" shows peach and pear aromas and flavors,
and is round and full on the palate (13.0% stated alcohol) with softness
but no flabbiness. Drink over the next 2-5 years. A.P. Nr.: 14-04
Score: 91/B FWR 102
Karthäuserhof 2003 Riesling Kabinett
feinherb EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG
The feinherb Kabinett (11% stated alcohol) is less fruity, more stony
in the nose. In the mouth, the wine is firm with moderate acidity, white
peach flavors, and good length. A.P. Nr.: 07-04
Score: 88/B+ FWR 102
Karthäuserhof 2003 Riesling Spätlese feinherb
EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG
The Spätlese feinherb is sweeter and nervy in the mouth with elegant
gooseberry and cassis flavors. A.P. Nr.: 10 04
Score: 90/ B+ FWR 102
Karthäuserhof 2003 Riesling feinherb EITELSBACHER
KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG
Score: 87(+) FWR 106
Karthäuserhof 2003 Riesling Kabinett
EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG
Turning to the fruity-style wines, the Kab shows pear aromas, some sweetness
on the palate with quite decent acidity, overall elegance, and stony peach
flavors. 10.0% stated alcohol. A.P. Nr.: 08 04
Score: 91/A FWR 102
Karthäuserhof 2003 Riesling Spätlese
EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG
Karthäuserhof's Spätlese shows better acidity and concentration
and is fairly sweet. The wine is still elegant, but power is also begin-ning
to show through with the peach and apricot fruit, in total making for
a delicious wine. A.P. Nr.: 11 04
Score: 93/A FWR 102
Karthäuserhof 2003 Riesling Auslese EITELSBACHER
KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG
We then start a string of Auslese that, confusingly, are not labeled in
a uniform fashion. The generic Auslese is stony in the nose and shows
excellent acidity underlying the juicy texture with quite a bit of sweetness.
The wine is undeveloped for the moment and I would give it 6-8 years in
the bottle before opening. A.P. Nr.: 15 04
Score: 89(+)/B- FWR 102
Karthäuserhof 2003 Riesling Auslese #43
EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG
What a step-up to the Auslese #43. The wine is broader and more concentrated
with plenty of sweetness and depth to its peach and red fruits. But this
is a wine that needs 10-15 years to fully show its potential. A.P. Nr.:
20 04
Score: 94+/A FWR 102
Karthäuserhof 2003 Riesling Auslese
#24 EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG
The Auslese #24 is ripe and concentrated but still needs plenty of time
for the unformed fruit to come into focus. A.P. Nr.: 16 04
Score: 93(+)/A- FWR 102
Karthäuserhof 2003 Riesling Auslese FUDER
30 EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG
The Auslese Fuder 30 shows good acidity and does not appear as sweet as
the two preceding wines nor as powerful, but there is more nervosity here
and greater precision and delineation of the peach and pear fruit. A.P.
Nr.: 18 04
Score: 94+/A FWR 102
Karthäuserhof 2003 Riesling Auslese #38 EITELSBACHER
KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG
Auslese #38 is juicy, deep and perhaps shows a touch of botrytis with
depth and length on the palate. It is a summation of the preceding Auslese.
Score: 94+/A FWR 102
Karthäuserhof 2003 Riesling Gold Capsule Auslese
EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG
18/04
The GKA Nr. 18 is closed now, and thus difficult to judge. There is plenty
of concentration and acidity to provide grip, but the wine remains disjointed
for the moment. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 16 04
Score: 92+/B+ FWR 106
Schloss Lieser Mosel
valley
Yields here were 55 hl/ha in 2003. Thomas Haag said that there was very
little botrytis and characterized the wines as fruitier but less mineral
than 2002 with fine balance. He is using all natural yeasts now. This
is a very fine collection, characterized by depth and density.
Schloss Lieser 2003 Riesling
smoky apple aromas, is off-dry with good grip and nervosity and young
apply fruit. A.P. Nr.: 2 04
Score: 89/A FWR 102
Schloss Lieser 2003 Riesling Kabinett
Leesy, chewy and juicy, like a young J.J. Prüm wine, and should be
a bargain with a couple of years' aging. A.P. Nr.: 3 04
Score: 91/A FWR 102
Schloss Lieser 2003 Riesling Spätlese
rounder, riper, and softer with chewiness and a more flowing quality to
it.
Score: 91/A- FWR 102
Schloss Lieser 2003 Riesling Spätlese BRAUNEBERGER
JUFFER-SONNENUHR
Haag now is in direct competition with his father
with this Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese, the result
of a recent purchase. The wine is leesy, full, powerful, balanced elegant,
and long with minerality, a fine first effort. A.P. Nr.: 10 04
Score: 93/A FWR 102
Schloss Lieser 2003 Riesling Spätlese LIESER
NIEDERBERG-HELDEN
Shows less grip and intensity but is elegant and attractive, and should
be quite fine with a couple of years' aging. A.P. Nr.: 5 04
Score: 92/A FWR 102
Schloss Lieser 2003 Riesling Spätlese ('Auction')
LIESER NIEDERBERG-HELDEN
Still reductive in the nose but sweet on the palate, powerful, and well-balanced.
Score: 93/A FWR 102
Schloss Lieser 2003 Riesling Auslese LIESER NIEDERBERG-HELDEN
Peach aromas and flavors, recalling the wines of Piesport downstream.
A.P. Nr.: 7 04
Score: 94/A FWR 102
Schloss Lieser 2003 Riesling Auslese ' two star'
('Gold Kapsule') LIESER NIEDERBERG-HELDEN
Less intense and more elegant with a riper, longer, filigreed fruit. A.P.
Nr.: 8 04
Score: 94/A FWR 102
Schloss Lieser 2003 Riesling Auslese 'three star'
('Long Gold Kapsule') LIESER NIEDERBERG-HELDEN
Ripe and shows light honeyed aromas and flavors with sweetness and finesse
that is drawn out, making for fine length.
Score: 93/A- FWR 102
Milz-Laurentiushof Mosel
valley
Milz-Laurentiushof 2003 Riesling Kabinett PIESPORTER
HOFBERG
Leathery aromas, is medium-sweet with decent acidity and good grip. Give
this wine 4-5 years in the cellar. A.P. Nr.: 14 04
Score: 87/B FWR 102
Milz-Laurentiushof 2003 Riesling Spätlese TRITTENHEIMER
LEITERCHEN
Shows earthy wildflower aromas, followed by good concentration, depth,
and minerality in the mouth. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 05 04
Score: 89/B FWR 102 - 90
FWR 106
Milz-Laurentiushof 2003 Riesling Spätlese TRITTENHEIMER
FELSENKOPF
Still more floral in the nose and shows earth flavors that mix well with
the off-dry sweetness. A.P. Nr.: 07 04
Score: 91/A- FWR 102
Milz-Laurentiushof 2003 Riesling Gold Capsule Auslese
TRITTENHEIMER APOTHEKE
Score: 91 FWR 106
Milz-Laurentiushof 2003 Riesling Gold Capsule Auslese
TRITTENHEIMER LEITERCHEN
Score: 93 FWR 106
Milz-Laurentiushof 2003 Riesling Auslese TRITTENHEIMER
APOTHEKE
Has incipient peach aromas. Relatively dry for an Auslese (think others'
Spätlese) and relatively closed for the moment, the wine does present
promise for 4-6 years in the future. A wine for food. A.P. Nr.: 11 04
Score: 91/B FWR 102
Milz-Laurentiushof 2003 Riesling Beerenauslese (BA)
TRITTENHEIMER APOTHEKE
Has strongly honeyed aromas and is like a pot of honey in the mouth with
plenty of sweetness. This is for those who prize botrytis above all else
Score: 93/B- FWR 102
106:
2003 TRITTENHEIMER LEITERCHEN SPÄTLESE 90/B+
2003 TRITTENHEIMER APOTHEKE GKA 91/B
2003 TRITTENHEIMER LEITERCHEN GKA 93/A-
Milz's 2003s need time, but quality is there. The Trittenheimer Leiterchen
Spätlese is Auslese-sweet (despite the 9.0% stated alcohol) with
attractive white peach aromas and flavors. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 06
04. Milz's Trittenheimer Apotheke GKA is elegant but shows spiciness and
incipient botrytis. Still, in terms of depth and concentration, this is
not the best effort I have seen from this estate. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 08 04. The Trittenheimer Leiterchen GKA, from a monopole that is
within the Apotheke vineyard, is deeper and more concentrated with brown
sugar/botrytis overtones. It is forward but should improve with a decade
or two of age. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 09 04.
Wegeler (Mosel) Mosel
region
The team here has put together another excellent vintage.
Wegeler (Mosel) 2003 Riesling Kabinett WEHLENER SONNENUHR
Typical Sonnenuhr nose with vanilla and apples and is concentrated in
the mouth with mineral, stony apple fruit. A.P. Nr.: 04 04
Score: 90/A FWR 102
Wegeler (Mosel) 2003 Riesling Spätlese
Made from fruit coming from Graach and Bernkastel, has slate soil aromas
and is powerful in the mouth with slate fla-vors. This is Bernkastel-type
Mosel wine, and very attractive.
Score: 91/A- FWR 102
Wegeler (Mosel) 2003 Riesling Spätlese WEHLENER
SONNENUHR
Dense and chewy (10% alcohol) but still relatively unformed. This is less
easily recognizable as Sonnenuhr than the Kabinett in flavors, although
in style, it fits. A.P. Nr.: 10 04
Score: 90(+)/B+ FWR 102
Wegeler (Mosel) 2003 Riesling Spätlese BERNKASTELER
DOCTOR
Down to 8% alcohol, more to my liking. Initially petrolly in the nose,
it turns to apricot, followed by intense apricot flavors that are deep
and long in a powerful body. A.P. Nr.: 11 04
Score: 94/A FWR 102
Wegeler (Mosel) 2003 Riesling Spätlese BERNKASTELER
DOCTOR
For the moment, the Bernkasteler Doctor Spätlese is too sweet
to be fully balanced, but with time (a decade or so?) the sweetness will
drop away and the wine should show better. The aromas and flavors are
pure Doctor with plenty of lime/slate fruit. The wine is moderate in acidity
and lacks the depth and concentration of the strongest years here, but
still should reward those who cellar it. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 2304.
Score: 90+/B+ FWR 106
Wegeler (Mosel) 2003 Riesling Spätlese ('Auction')
BERNKASTELER DOCTOR
Shows great grip and intensity and is perhaps more elegant and com-plete
than the excellent regular Spätlese.
Score: 95(+)/A+ FWR 102
Wegeler (Mosel) 2003 Riesling Auslese BERNKASTELER
DOCTOR
Is not terribly sweet for an Auslese (which I consider good) but sweetness
is there, as well as power and balance. This wine needs 4-6 years in the
cellar.
Score: 94/A FWR 102
Wegeler (Mosel) 2003 Riesling Auslese ('Auction')
WEHLENER SONNENUHR
Shows pear, smoke, and flint aromas that are very complex. In the mouth,
the wine is very sweet and honeyed. This is a very primary wine that needs
a few years in the bottle to be better evaluated.
Score: 92+/B+ FWR 102
Wegeler (Mosel) 2003 Riesling Beerenauslese WEHLENER
SONNENUHR
The Wehlener Sonnenuhr BEERENAUSLESE is young and closed down for the
moment. It carries BEERENAUSLESE weight and a fine-chiseled texture, with
Sonnenuhr vanilla fruit, but little or no botrytis evident. Stuff this
in the cellar for a minimum of twenty years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
16 04.
Score: 94(+)/B+ FWR 106
Wegeler (Mosel) 2003 Riesling Beerenauslese (BA)
BERNKASTELER DOCTOR
Honeyed in both nose and mouth, and long and smooth from the glycerin
in the mouth. This needs time, but it is great. A.P. Nr.: 07 04
Score: 97/A FWR 102
Wegeler (Mosel) 2003 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese
(TBA) BERNKASTELER DOCTOR
Honeyed in both nose and mouth, and long and smooth from the glycerin
in the mouth. This needs time, but it is great. A.P. Nr.: 07 04
Score: 98(+)/A FWR 102
Wegeler (Mosel) 2003 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese
(TBA) BERNKASTELER DOCTOR
No question about botrytis with the Bernkasteler Doctor TBA. The wine
is relatively dark with honey and orange peel aromas and flavors, great
viscosity and perfect acid/sugar balance. Fabulous for drinking already,
and I should imagine a 50+ year lifespan for this wine. Last digits of
A.P. Nr.: 18 04.
Score: 98(+)/A FWR 106
DR. F. WEINS-PRÜM Mosel region
Once again this underrated estate comes through with a solid lineup of
outstanding wines. Bert Selbach stated that the harvest here began on
16 October. There was no acidification and acidities are generally near
7 g/l.
Dr. F. Weins-Prüm 2003 Riesling halbtrocken
(medium-dry)
Powerful but balanced with Mosel elegance and Ruwer firmness with vanilla
and apple aromas and flavors and good length. A.P. Nr.: 14 04.
Score: 89/A FWR 102
Dr. F. Weins-Prüm 2003 Riesling Kabinett GRAACHER
DOMPROBST
Shows plenty of acidity (7 g/l) and is powerful, but perhaps not terribly
typical (less rich and golden than usual), but enjoyable nonetheless.
A.P. Nr.: 4 04
Score: 90/A FWR 102
Dr. F. Weins-Prüm 2003 Riesling Kabinett WEHLENER
SONNENUHR
Effectively a Spätlese (48 g/l residual sugar, 6.9 g/l acidity, 93°
Öchsle). The wine has fine length but is atypical in the sense that
terroir is not present. A.P. Nr.: 1 04.
Score: 90/A FWR 102
Dr. F. Weins-Prüm 2003 Riesling Spätlese
GRAACHER DOMPROBST
Shows more Domprobst character than the Kabinett did, with great crystalline
fruit and purity, fine length and extremely good acidity. A.P. Nr.: 5
04.
Score: 93(+)/A FWR 102
Dr. F. Weins-Prüm 2003 Riesling Spätlese
GRAACHER HIMMELREICH
Sightly less fat than the Domprobst and more mineral with a good attack
from the acidity, making for an overall racy wine. A.P. Nr.: 8 04.
Score: 93/A FWR 102
Dr. F. Weins-Prüm 2003 Riesling Spätlese
WEHLENER SONNENUHR
Displays more character of the vineyard than the Kabinett did, with vanilla
hints to the round and relatively powerful and rich mouth. The wine does
not display the depth, power, and aging capacity of some vintages, but
captivates by its charm. A.P. Nr.: 2 04
Score: 94/A FWR 102
Dr. F. Weins-Prüm 2003 Riesling Spätlese
ERDENER PRÄLAT
Has hazelnut shell aromas, followed by a full, rich, powerful mouth with
some minerality. Labelled a Spätlese, we are really in Auslese style
here. Bert Selbach compares the wine to its 1976 counterpart. A.P. Nr.:
10 04.
Score: 93/A FWR 102
Dr. F. Weins-Prüm 2003 Riesling Auslese GRAACHER
DOMPROBST
Earthy and stony in the nose, and stony in the mouth with concentration,
power, and length. 5% botrytis here, but I was unable to detect any. A.P.
Nr.: 6 04
Score: 93/A- FWR 102
Dr. F. Weins-Prüm 2003 Riesling Auslese WEHLENER
SONNENUHR
Shows typical Sonnenuhr vanilla, stone, apple aromas. The attack is less
marked than for the Domprobst, but there is good length. Overall, the
wine is a touch chunky. A.P. Nr.: 3 04
Score: 92/ B+ FWR 102
Dr. F. Weins-Prüm 2003 Riesling Auslese ERDENER
PRÄLAT
Shows excellent acidity and some honey from botrytis. The wine is medium-sweet
with a fair amount of power, but also elegance. A.P. Nr.: 11 04
Score: 94/A FWR 102
Dr. F. Weins-Prüm 2003 Riesling Auslese ('Long
Gold Kapsule') WEHLENER SONNENUHR
45% botrytised and harvested at 133º Öchsle, is filigreed and
more complex than the others, con-stantly changing in the mouth with an
excellent acid attack.
Score: 94/A FWR 102
Joh. Jos. Prüm
Mosel valley
For many, this is the greatest white wine estate not just in Germany,
but in the world. And at the top are some of the greatest wines of the
2003 vintage in all of Germany. Along with Wilhelm Haag, Dr. Manfred Prüm
is one of the few major producers who has firsthand experience with 1959
and can judge whether the comparison of 2003 to 1959 is valid. Like Haag,
he does not go along with it. He sees a combination of 2001, 1971, and
1959 (although he says that in cask, the 2003s show better than the 1959s
did because of the greater structure of the latter vintage).
J.J. Prüm 2003 Riesling Spätlese feinherb
BERNKASTELER BADSTUBE
The wine shows minerality in the nose, but still has the famous Prüm
reduction. In the mouth, there is quite good acidity, and although the
wine is still quite shy, it shows depth and slate hints, as well as decent
concentration.
Score: 88(+)/A
FWR 102
J.J. Prüm 2003 Riesling Kabinett WEHLENER
A combination from the Klosterberg and Nonnenberg vineyards. The nose
is quite mineral with plenty of slate hints. In the mouth, the wine is
pure and clear with medium weight and good length. Not the complexity
or potential of a Sonnenuhr, but still a very fine wine.
Score: 90/A FWR
102
J.J. Prüm 2003 Riesling Spätlese ZELTINGER
SONNENUHR
This wine is more complex, but also somewhat lighter. The flavor profile
resembles that of Wehlener Sonnenuhr without quite the weight or seriousness.
Dr. Prüm adds that the residual sugar here is less than that for
the Wehlener Kab, but the alcohol is higher.
Score: 92/A FWR
102
J.J. Prüm 2003 Riesling Spätlese GRAACHER
HIMMELREICH
A year such as 2003 favors certain vineyards that retain water better,
and the Graacher Himmelreich Spätlese is a good example of that phenomenon.
The wine shows vanilla and stone aromas that with air turn to apricot.
In the mouth, it is full and rich with fine balance. The acidity appears
low, but correct, and the wine is elegant and spicy in the mouth with
good length. Dr. Prüm predicts that the Graacher Himmel-reichs will
mature sooner than the Wehlener Sonnenuhrs, but that the latter will develop
more complexity and greatness.
Score: 92/A FWR
102
J.J. Prüm 2003 Riesling Spätlese WEHLENER
SONNENUHR
For the moment less open in the nose, but deeper. In the mouth, it shows
outstanding concentration with mineral and herbal flavors, and again,
acidity that is low, but not too low, and overall elegance.
Score: 94(+)/A FWR 102
J.J. Prüm 2003 Riesling Auslese ZELTINGER SONNENUHR
Herbal in the nose with sweetness balanced by the low but sufficient acidity,
yielding roundness as with the Spätlese. The flavor profile reflects
its Wehlener counterpart, but without the power. Very elegant.
Score: 93/A- FWR 102
J.J. Prüm 2003 Riesling Auslese BERNKASTELER
BADSTUBE
Deep, pure, and mineral in the nose. In the mouth, long, incipient apricot
flavors appear.
Score: 93/A- FWR
102
J.J. Prüm 2003 Riesling Auslese GRAACHER HIMMELREICH
Dr. Prüm emphasized that the Graacher Himmelreich, here the Auslese,
would be the best wine for drinking young. The wine is more closed than
the Badstube in the mouth, but deep with white pepper and spice aromas.
The wine shows very good acidity and nervosity, but the fruit is less
ripe than that of the Badstube and the wine is not as rich.
Score: 94/A FWR 102
J.J. Prüm 2003 Riesling Auslese WEHLENER SONNENUHR
Very deep spiced apricot aromas, followed by depth and acidity (not low
in this wine) with intensity, length, and calmness to its apricot fruit.
But this wine is still just a baby and needs 4-6 years to develop, as
great as it is now.
Score: 96/A FWR 102
J.J. Prüm 2003 Riesling Auslese ('Auction')
WEHLENER SONNENUHR
Contains relatively little botrytis, but the wine has honeyed aromas mixed
with apricots and herbs, yielding tremendous complexity. In the mouth,
the wine shows good acidity and freshness to its apricot fruit, with some
honey, as well.
Score: 97/ A+ FWR 102
J.J. Prüm 2003 Riesling Auslese ('Gold Kapsule',
'Auction') WEHLENER SONNENUHR
Shows considerably more botrytis in the nose. Often botrytis is mono-lithic,
but not here. The wine is smooth, pure, seamless, and ripe with concentration
built by the botrytis. Wait 5-10 years if you can for this gem.
Score: 98/ A+ FWR 102
J.J. Prüm 2003 Riesling Auslese ('Long Gold
Kapsule', 'Auction') WEHLENER SONNENUHR
Borders on Beerenauslese (BA) in style. Again, the wine is pure, smooth,
and seamless with tremendous complexity and length, all adding up to a
wine that is spherical in the same way as Romanée-Conti.
Score: 99/ A+ FWR 102
Bert Simon / Herrenberg
Saar valley
Bert Simon characterized 2003 as his best year ever. Whether that is true
or not, it certainly is an exceptional year here, one where you can get
outstanding and even great wines for relatively little money. No acidification
here.
Bert Simon 2003 Riesling Spätlese halbtrocken
SERRIGER WÜRTZBERG
Shows pure Rennette apple aromas and is crystalline in the mouth with
pure apple flavors. Attractive now, it should be even better with a few
years in the bottle. 11.5% al-cohol. A.P. Nr.: 9 04
Score: 89/B FWR 102
Bert Simon 2003 Riesling Spätlese SERRIGER
WÜRTZBERG
is stony and steely, with acidity that is discreet but sufficient. A.P.
Nr.: 6 04
Score: 91/ A- FWR 102
Bert Simon 2003 Riesling Auslese SERRIGER
HERRENBERG
shows outstanding acidity to lift the stony pure green apple fruit that
is pure and combines power and delicacy at the same time. Sweetness on
the finish. A.P. Nr.: 04 04
Score: 93(+)/A- FWR 102
Bert Simon 2003 Riesling Auslese SERRIGER WÜRTZBERG
Auslese 'one star' ('Gold Kapsule')
similarly shows great underlying acidity, but the difference is that there
is botrytis here, along with succulence and length to the stony fruit,
all in all making for a fascinating wine. A.P. Nr.: 03 04
Score: 94(+)/A FWR 102
Bert Simon 2003 Riesling Auslese SERRIGER WÜRTZBERG
Auslese 'two star'
('Long Gold Kapsule', 'Auction')
It shows great acidity and honeyed caramel aromas and flavors. It is a
great wine for very long aging. A.P. Nr.: 05 04
Score: 95/A FWR 102
Bert Simon 2003 Riesling Beerenauslese (BA)
SERRIGER HERRENBERG
Shows fine acidity and does have underlying brown sugar and caramel selections,
even though there is was little botrytis. It shows the flavor profile
of a Beerenauslese (BA), but not the weight. Still, an excellent bottle.
A.P. Nr.: 07 04
Score: 94/B FWR 102
Bert Simon 2003 Riesling Beerenauslese (BA)
SERRIGER WÜRTZBERG
Shows more botrytis and weight with a juicy texture and plenty of brown
sugar and caramel elements. A.P. Nr.: 13 04
Score: 95/ B+ FWR 102
Bert Simon 2003 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA)
SERRIGER HERRENBERG
The wine was harvested as 230º Öchsle, contains 300 g/l residual
sugar and has 10 g/l acidity. The wine shows strong botrytis, depth, weight,
and intensity - a treasure for your children or even grandchildren.
Score: 98/A FWR 102
Bert Simon 2003 Riesling Auslese * SERRIG
HERRENBERG
Simon's Serrig Herrenberg Auslese * is a beautiful expression of the Saar
with firmness and austerity backing the nutmeg and apple aromas and flavors.
There is enough acidity to prevent the wine from appearing very sweet,
and great finesse here. The wine is probably best served on its own or
with savory dishes, and I foresee a very long and great life span here.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 17 04.
Score: 94(+)/A FWR 106
Bert Simon 2003 Riesling TBA SERRIG HERRENBERG
The Serrig Herrenberg TBA is, of course, considerably denser. Some botrytis
is evident, but not predominant, and the wine is quite sweet, with balancing
acidity and red cherries and raspberries. I would regard this as a medium-term
wine, i.e., to drink 2018-2033. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11 04.
Score: 95/B+ FWR 106
Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz)
Saar valley
Hanno Zilliken has called 2003 the greatest vintage ever at this outstanding
estate. If I cannot endorse that view, it is in part because of other
great vintages that I know here, in part because of the relative weakness
of the first few wines reviewed here.
Zilliken 2003 Riesling Kabinett SAARBURGER RAUSCH
Elegant, but lacks some depth to its juicy texture and floral fruit. A.P.
Nr.: 11 04.
Score: 87/B FWR 102
Zilliken 2003 Riesling Spätlese OCKFENER
BOCKSTEIN
Again lacks depth and also some concentration, but is pretty and should
develop into something pleasing with a few years' cellaring. A.P. Nr.:
10 04.
Score: 88(+)/B FWR 102
Zilliken 2003 Riesling Spätlese SAARBURGER
RAUSCH
The wine shows that depth and concentration, and there is plenty of acidity
here (8.2 g/l). The wine is still closed, but there is magnificent promise
here for several years in the future. A.P. Nr.: 8 04.
Score: 93/A FWR 102
Zilliken 2003 Riesling Auslese SAARBURGER
RAUSCH
seems to show some botrytis in the nose and apple flavors, but there is
a drop in clarity from the Spätlese. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 07
04
Score: 93/A- FWR 102
Zilliken 2003 Riesling Spätlese ('Auction')
SAARBURGER RAUSCH
shown after the regular Auslese, displays beautiful clarity, but once
again I have questions about the depth and concentration. The regular
Spätlese seems equally as good. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 06 04
Score: 93/A FWR 102
Zilliken 2003 Riesling Auslese ('Auction')
SAARBURGER RAUSCH
Is elegant with apple fruit, medium weight, sweetness, and great overall
finesse. The grapes were harvest on 11 December, after the frost, and
with botrytis. A.P. Nr.: 5 04.
Score: 94+/A FWR 102
Zilliken 2003 Riesling Auslese ('Gold Kapsule') SAARBURGER
RAUSCH
Composed of two pickings - one com-pletely infected with botrytis and
another of grapes that would not go into the Beerenauslese (BA) and Trockenbeerenauslese
(TBA). The result is wonderful botrytis in the nose with apricot and grapefruit
flavors and a full, rich body. A potential giant for the future. A.P.
Nr.: 4 04
Score: 95/A FWR 102
Zilliken 2003 Riesling Auslese ('Long Gold Kapsule', 'Auction') SAARBURGER
RAUSCH
Includes 10% Eiswein. Shows powerful botrytis in the nose and is sappy
on the palate with density, botrytis flavors, and length. A.P. Nr.: 03
04
Score: 94(+)/A FWR 102
Zilliken 2003 Riesling Beerenauslese (BA) SAARBURGER
RAUSCH
is long and in-tense with plenty of botrytis and BAcharacter and 76 g
of dry extract: a potential legend in thee making. A.P. Nr.: 03 04
Score: 97/A FWR 102
Zilliken 2003 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA)
SAARBURGER RAUSCH
Dense, deep, long, chewy, and concentrated with full botrytis, but certainly
will need decades before it can be fully appreciated.
Score: 98+/A FWR 102
von Schleinitz Mosel
Saar Ruwer region
von Schleinitz 2003 Slatestone Riesling dry
The Slatestone dry needs some time to open up, but
then is rewarding with mouth-watering mineral aromas and flavors provided
by the slate soils. The wine is rather closed, though, so I'd give it
a year or two in the cellar or else decant half an hour or so before serving.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 10 04. Score: 87/A- FWR 106
von Schleinitz 2003 Riesling Auslese, Koberner Weisenberg
The Koberner Weisenberg Auslese has ripe and dried apricot aromas and
flavors with the delicacy and nervosity typical of Mosel wines. Not a
great Auslese, but a good, attractive one at an interesting price, and
suitable either on its own or with a meal. Now-2030. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 0204.
Score: 91/B FWR 106
Schäfer-Fröhlich Nahe
region
Tim Fröhlich is one of the 4-5 producers who is on the most admired
list of top German winemakers these days, and for good reason.
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2002 SPÄTBURGUNDER
(Pinot Noir) trocken (dry)
The 02 Spätburgunder trocken is considerably higher than I would
prefer in alcohol (14.5% according to the label), but the alcohol does
not show in the wine. It shows slightly stemmy red currant and strawberry
fruit and should be good for drinking over the next 4-5 years. One of
the top German Pinot Noirs, clearly. A.P. Nr.: 33-03
Score: 88/A FWR 102
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2003 Riesling Spätlese
trocken (dry) SCHLOSSBÖCKELHEIMER FELSENBERG
Fruity in the nose and pure and crystalline in the mouth with admirable
length. A.P. Nr.: 12 04
Score: 91/A- FWR 102
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2003 Riesling Spätlese
trocken (dry) 2003 BOCKENAUER FELSENECK
mineral, crystalline, precise, and more complex than the previous wine,
showing its blue slate, quartzite, and basalt origins. Schäfer thinks
this is his best Spätlese. A.P. Nr.: 13 04.
Score: 92/A FWR 102
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2003 Riesling (dry) 'Grosses
Gewächs' MONZINGER HALENBERG
Good acidity and is fruitier than the previous wines, but still long and
pure, and drinkable already for its minerality. A.P. Nr.: 20 04
Score: 92+/A FWR 102
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2003 Riesling (dry) 'Grosses
Gewächs' MONZINGER FRÜHLINGSPLÄTZCHEN
Comes from vines that are more than 50 years old. A bit more mineral and
austere in the nose, it shows lime and mineral fruit in the mouth and
is gentle, calm, pure, and long. A.P. Nr.: 21 04
Score: 93/A FWR 102
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2003 Riesling halbtrocken
Score: 85(+)/B FWR 106
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2003 Riesling Kabinett
The Kabinett, bottled with a crown cap (Tim Fröhlich is very sensitive
to corkiness), is ripe, pure, mineral, and very nervy with incipient peach
fruit. 2006-2012. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 07-04.
Score: 88(+)/B+ FWR 106
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2003 Riesling Spätlese
BOCKENAUER FELSENECK
Has floral aromas but is still rather closed in the nose. In the mouth,
the wine is succulent with decent acidity and filigree quality to its
fruit. Give it a couple of years to mature. A.P. Nr.: 5 04
Score: 91/A- FWR 102
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2003 Riesling Spätlese
MONZINGER HALENBERG
Quite tightly wound with great energy and fine minerality and acidity
to balance against the sugar so that there is no noticeable sweetness.
A.P. Nr.: 16 04
Score: 93(+)/A FWR 102
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2003 Riesling Spätlese
('Gold Kapsule') BOCKENAUER FELSENECK
A fabulous wine. Closed, but so intense in the nose, the wine shows a
perfect plenty of sugar and acidity with intensity on the palate, and
great minerality underlying the sweetness. A.P. Nr.: 16 04
Score: 95/ A+ FWR 102
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2003 Riesling Spätlese
('Gold Kapsule') BOCKENAUER FELSENECK
The Bockenauer Felseneck Gold Cap Spätlese is quite elegant
with great purity in its crystalline lemon fruit aromas and flavors. The
wine does not seem to have special depth or concentration, yet I suspect
that it may age very well and become a delicate (but not fragile), lacy
wine. A.P. Nr.: 17-04
Score: 91/A- FWR 106
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2003 Riesling Auslese
BOCKENAUER FELSENECK
Equally impressive. Harvested at 130º Öchsle, the wine shows
honeyed aromas, followed by honey and apricots in the mouth but also elegance.
Not as rich as the 'Gold Kapsule' Spätlese, but more mineral. A.P.
Nr.: 18 04
Score: 95/A FWR 102
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2003 Riesling Auslese
('Gold Kapsule') BOCKENAUER FELSENECK
is a potentially legendary wine with excellent minerality and honey in
the nose, great, knife-sharp acidity in the mouth and great finesse. The
wine is light, but concentrated, lively, powerful, and balanced. A.P.
Nr.: 28 04
Score: 97/ A+ FWR 102
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2003 Riesling Auslese
('Gold Kapsule') BOCKENAUER FELSENECK 96(+)/A
The Bockenauer Felseneck GKA, a different lot from that which I previously
reviewed, is pure and crystalline with plenty of botrytis and excellent
acidity. This is textbook Nahe and should have a long life. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 19-04.
Score: 96(+)/ A FWR 106
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2003 Riesling Beerenauslese
(BA) MONZINGER FRÜHLINGSPLÄTZCHEN
Has a honeyed nose and very good mineral definition in the mouth with
liveliness and a fine display of terroir. A.P. Nr.: 29 04
Score: 97/A FWR 102
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2003 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese
(TBA) BOCKENAUER FELSENECK
Tremendously complex in the nose with mineral flavors, sweetness, liveliness,
length, and sappiness, but no heaviness.
Score: 98/A FWR 102
Franz Künstler
Rheingau region
Franz Künstler 2003 Riesling Spätlese trocken, (Hochheimer)
Hölle
Score: 90(+)/A FWR 106
Franz Künstler 2003 Riesling
Score: 88/A FWR 106
Franz Künstler 2003 Riesling Auslese, Hochheimer
Kirchenstück
Score: 95/A FWR 106
KÜNSTLER 2003 CHARDONNAY TROCKEN (DRY) 86/A-
KÜNSTLER 2003 RIESLING TROCKEN (DRY) HOCHHEIMER HERRENBERG 88/A
The Hochheimer Herrenberg trocken (dry) shows fresh, crystalline spring-like,
almost Nahe-like purity and freshness. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 009 04
KÜNSTLER 2003 RIESLING KABINETT TROCKEN (DRY) (HOCHHEIMER) KIRCHENSTÜCK
90/A
Künstler's Kirchenstück Kabinett trocken (dry) shows clove and
a bit of apple in the nose. In the mouth the wine is elegant, even lacy,
in texture with length to its pure apple fruit. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
08 04.
KÜNSTLER 2003 RIESLING KABINETT TROCKEN (DRY) (HOCHHEIMER) HÖLLE
92/A
The Hölle Kabinett trocken (dry) has honeysuckle and hazelnuts in
its refined nose, and is rich, powerful, and mineral in the mouth, amounting
to a beautiful expression of the terroir. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 010
04.
KÜNSTLER 2003 RIESLING (ERSTES GEWÄCHS) ALTE REBEN (HOCHHEIMER)
STIELWEG 94/A
Of special note for these wines is their transparency of terroir: each
of the vineyards retains its own special character.. The Stielweg is pure,
crystalline, deep, and powerful, but refined. This is a wine of the highest
class. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 014 04.
KÜNSTLER 2003 RIESLING SPÄTLESE TROCKEN (DRY) (HOCHHEIMER)
HÖLLE 93/A
The Hölle Spätlese trocken (dry) is complex with honeysuckle
aromas and more power and definition than its Kabinett trocken counterpart.
In the mouth, the wine is crystalline, rich, powerful, and mouthfilling
(12.5% alcohol). Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 013 04.
KÜNSTLER 2003 RIESLING AUSLESE TROCKEN (DRY) (HOCHHEIMER) KIRCHENSTÜCK
92/B+
The Kirchenstück Auslese trocken (dry), from 50 year-old vines, has
minerality and some floral hints in the nose. In the mouth, the wine is
round and elegant with not quite the depth of the previous two wines or
the Hölle GKA trocken (dry), but still quite fine. Last digits of
A.P. Nr.: 024 04.
KÜNSTLER 2003 RIESLING AUSLESE TROCKEN (DRY) (HOCHHEIMER) HÖLLE
90/B
The Hölle Auslese trocken (dry) shows more prominent acidity but
not the overall harmony and definition of the Spätlese. Still, it
is a good wine for its minerality and power. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
023 04.
KÜNSTLER 2003 RIESLING GKA TROCKEN (DRY) (HOCHHEIMER) HÖLLE
94/A
The Hölle GKA trocken (dry) is a step up, with elegance in the nose
and purity, length, power, finesse, and complexity in the mouth. This
is a noble and lively wine that should peak in 2-4 years, I'd guess.
KÜNSTLER 2003 RIESLING HALBTROCKEN (MEDIUM-DRY) 87/A-
The halbtrocken (medium-dry) shows green apple aromas and flavors with
roundness on the palate, length, and very little sweetness. The wine is
not complex, but exactly what it should be as a QbA halbtrocken (medium-dry).
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 006 04
KÜNSTLER 2003 RIESLING 88/A
The Riesling displays yellow plum fruit, minerality, and richness of body.
There is a fair amount of sugar here, so be sure to chill this wine adequately.
I would expect an aging capacity of 10-15 years, at least. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 026 04.
KÜNSTLER 2003 RIESLING KABINETT (HOCHHEIMER) REICHESTAL (APN 01
04) 91(+)/A
A different bottling of Reichestal Kabinett is complex, perfumed, and
floral in the nose with some hazelnut shells. In the mouth, the wine shows
golden apples, a rich texture, acidity, and some laciness. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 001 04
KÜNSTLER 2003 RIESLING AUSLESE (HOCHHEIMER) KIRCHENSTÜCK 95/A
KÜNSTLER 2003 RIESLING AUSLESE (HOCHHEIMER) HÖLLE 92/B+
The Hölle Auslese has floral and honeysuckle aromas, followed by
a racy mouth that is not too rich or sweet with apple flavors. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 016 04
KÜNSTLER 2003 RIESLING GKA (HOCHHEIMER) HÖLLE 94/A
The Hölle GKA is pure, elegant, and lovely with a balance of sugar
and acid making for harmony and greater previous that the previous wine.
Little botrytis apparent. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 002 04.
KÜNSTLER 2003 RIESLING GKA (HOCHHEIMER) KIRCHENSTÜCK 95/A
The Kirchenstück GKA similarly is pure and elegant, and not especially
sweet. This is a wine to have with meals or to contemplate on its own,
not for dessert
KÜNSTLER 2003 RIESLING TBA (HOCHHEIMER) KIRCHENSTÜCK 97/A-
The Kirchenstück TBA displays a highly botrytized TBA nose, followed
by great sweetness and richness on the palate.
KÜNSTLER 2003 RIESLING TBA (HOCHHEIMER) HÖLLE 96+/B+
The Hölle TBA is sweet, powerful, and long. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
029 04
KÜNSTLER 2003 RIESLING TBA (HOCHHEIMER) STIELWEG 96+/B+
The Stielweg TBA shows angelica and anise aromas and flavors with good
acidity, richness, and roundness, making for plenty of promise.
KÜNSTLER 2003 RIESLING TBA Domdechenay is more elegant and less
powerful than the Kirchenstück Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 028 04.
Wegeler Rheingau region
Wegeler 2003 Riesling Kabinett trocken Oestricher
Lenchen
Score: 86/A FWR 106
Wegeler 2003 Riesling (trocken; Erstes Gewächs) Rüdesheim
Berg Schlossberg
Score: 86/A FWR 106
Wegeler 2003 Riesling (trocken; Erstes Gewächs) Winkel
Jesuitengarten
Score: 87(+?)/ FWR 106
Wegeler 2003 Spätlese trocken "Geheimrat J"
Score: 92/ FWR 106
Wegeler 2003 Riesling halbtrocken
Score: 87/ FWR 106
Wegeler 2003 Riesling Kabinett Rüdesheimer Berg
Schlossberg
Score: 88(+)/ FWR 106
Wegeler 2003 Riesling Spätlese Rüdesheimer Berg
Rottland
Score: 90/ FWR 106
Wegeler 2003 Riesling Auslese Geisenheimer Rothenberg
Score: 94(+)/ FWR 106
Wegeler 2000 RIESLING SEKT GEHEIMRAT J 91/A
Forget comparisons with Champagne for Wegeler's 2000 Geheimrat J Sekt:
There is spiciness in the nose and mouth, and also power and a certain
rusticity in the mouth that you'll not encounter in any Champagne that
I know. But there are also depth and complexity here that can approach
all but the finest Champagnes. Excellent with hors d'oeuvres or with a
meal. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 01 04.
Wegeler 2003 RIESLING TROCKEN (DRY) 88/A
The trocken (dry) is spicy in the nose and shows the slate from Rüdesheim.
In the mouth, the wine is round, clean, delicious, simple, and supple.
Wegeler 2003 RIESLING KABINETT TROCKEN OESTRICHER
LENCHEN (DRY) 86/B
Wegeler 2003 RIESLING (DRY) (WINKEL) JESUITENGARTEN
(ERSTES GEWÄCHS) 93/A
The Jesuitengarten Erstes Gewächs features spiced plum aromas and
flavors with some acidic bite. The wine is pure, calm, and very refined,
but needs a little time to smooth out. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 1304.
Wegeler 2003 RIESLING (DRY) (RÜDESHEIM)
BERG SCHLOSSBERG(ERSTES GEWÄCHS) 92/A
The Berg Schlossberg Erstes Gewächs is smooth and less rich than
the Jesuitengarten with greater nervosity and minerality. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 1204
Wegeler 2003 GEHEIMRAT J RIESLING SPÄTLESE
TROCKEN (DRY) 92/A
Wegeler has a great advantage with 21 different grand cru sites to choose
from each year for the composition of its Geheimrat J Spätlese trocken
(dry). The wine is ripe, round and deep with spiced plum fruit and apparently
just enough residual sugar to give it roundness and softness. In contrast
to other vintages of this wine, I'd drink this one over the next 3-5 years.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 1404.
Wegeler 2003 RIESLING HALBTROCKEN (MEDIUM-DRY)
87/A-
The halbtrocken (medium-dry) is mineral and salty with some plum fruit.
At this point, the residual sugar only cuts the dryness from the acidity
and the wine remains dry on the palate. Excellent for drinking over then
next 3-5 years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 0304.
Wegeler 2003 RIESLING KABINETT RÜDESHEIMER
BERG SCHLOSSBERG 88+/B+
The Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Kabinett is quite closed for the
moment, but there are nutshell aromas and a density in the palate, plus
elegance and some lime fruit and ginger spice. Give this wine a few years
in the cellar and it may produce some real surprises. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 0904.
Wegeler 2003 RIESLING SPÄTLESE RÜDESHEIMER
BERG ROTTLAND 90/B+
The hot, dry conditions of 2003 did not favor the vineyard for the Rüdesheimer
Berg Rottland Spätlese, but the vines are older now and thus better
able to weather the dry conditions. The wine displays Berg Rottland silkiness
in texture and shows slate minerality initially, but with time, this turns
to pineapple and other tropical fruit, and the wine is quite sweet - really
an Auslese in disguise. Quite open, this wine can be drunk young, but
should age well, too. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 1104.
Wegeler 2003 RIESLING AUSLEESE GEISENHEIMER
ROTHENBERG 94(+)/A
The Geisenheimer Rothenberg Auslese shows no botrytis but lime and mineral
fruit with sweetness. This wine is sweet and well-balanced and could age
out to become truly outstanding. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 1504
Wegeler 2003 RIESLING EISWEIN GEISENHEIMER
ROTHENBERG 96(+)/A
The Riesling Eiswein Geisenheimer Rothenberg is has dense, powerful lemon
drop aromas and flavors with a thick texture, but the purity of Eiswein,
if not the cutting acidity. Atypical, yes, but also fascinating. Last
digits of A.P. Nr.: 1604.
Wegeler 2003 RIESLING TBA GEISENHEIMER ROTHENBERG
99/A+
The Geisenheimer Rothenberg TBA has unbelievable viscosity, even for a
TBA, and deep, rich, incredibly complex, changing combinations of chocolate
and, glazed oranges and apricots, along with purity, sufficient acidity,
and incredible length. This will become a legend. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 2104.
Robert Weil Rheingau region
My notes at the end of a tasting at this estate say that this would be
awesome if it represented the finest wines from all of Germany, but from
a single estate, it is truly amazing - except that such has become the
norm at Weil.
Robert Weil 2003 Riesling TROCKEN (DRY) (04 04)
88/A
Trocken (dry) showed beautiful, with concentration, density, and acidity,
making for an attractive wine for drinking over at least the next 4-6+
years. Last digits of A.P. Nr: 04 04.
Robert Weil 2003 Riesling (DRY) (KIEDRICH)
GRÄFENBERG (ERSTES GEWÄCHS) 93(+)/A
The Erstes Gewächs Gräfenberg is deep, pure, and mineral in
the nose and nutty and chewy with richness and concentration on the palate.
This is a dramatic wine that is intense and deep, but not mineral with
plum flavors. Give it 4-5 years in the bottle.
Robert Weil 2003 Riesling 87/A-
Riesling has mineral aromas and is lightly sweet with liveliness, plums,
and a nice play of acidity.
Robert Weil 2003 Riesling KABINETT 91/A
The Kabinett is sweet and pure with fine balance, length, some minerality,
but also very ripe plum fruit and some spice. More like a Spätlese
than a Kabinett, though.
Robert Weil 2003 Riesling SPÄTLESE 93(+)/A
There was a pause in the harvest, and the Spätlese comes from the
resumed harvest in mid-October. It shows some minerality in the nose,
and purity and minerality on the palate. This is more traditional and
less sun-influenced than the foregoing, with all sorts of stone fruits,
including nectarines, peaches, baked apples, and apricots and a lacy texture.
Robert Weil 2003 Riesling SPÄTLESE KIEDRICHER
GRÄFENBERG 94+/A
The Kiedricher Gräfenberg Spätlese is ripe and pure with mineral
aromas and flavors. The wine is sweet, but not overly so, with long plum
flavors. It is ready to drink now.
Robert Weil 2003 Riesling AUSLESE KIEDRICHER
GRÄFENBERG 94(+)/A
The Kiedricher Gräfenberg Auslese is very rich, long, and pure, but
in contrast to the Spätlese, needs aging to develop the flavors and
depth to go with the honey.
Robert Weil 2003 Riesling KIEDRICHER GRÄFENBERG
GOLD KAPSULE AUSLESE 97/A+
The Kiedricher Gräfenberg GKA, about 10-15% botrytis-infected, shows
honey aromas and flavors and fig flavors that are powerful, but balanced
with fine acidity, and great length. Atypical, yes, but most impressive.
Robert Weil 2003 Riesling BA (BEERENBAUSLESE)
KIEDRICHER GRÄFENBERG 98/A
Next on this exceptional list, the Kiedricher Gräfenberg BA is powerful
and dense with enormous concentration and fabulous peach and quince fruit
with a touch of orange peel on the extraordinarily long finish.
Robert Weil 2003 Riesling GOLD KAPSULE BEERENAUSLESE
KIEDRICHER GRÄFENBERG 98+/A
That's followed amazingly by a Kiedricher Gräfenberg GK BA that is
most pure and complex in the nose, and quite forward for a BA. In the
mouth, the wine is dense, deep, and pure with fig and honey flavors of
tremendous intensity - TBA-like - and unbelievable length.
Robert Weil 2003 Riesling TBA (TROCKENBEERENAUSLESE)
KIEDRICHER GRÄFENBERG 99/A+
The Kiedricher Gräfenberg TBA is even more intense with syrupy texture
and great sweetness. This wine is not nearly as forward as the previous
wines, and needs decades to develop, but there is fabulous minerality
to go with the honey. Harvested at 230° Oechsle, 13.0 g/l acidity.
Robert Weil 2003 Riesling GOLD KAPSULE TBA
(TROCKENBEERENAUSLESE) KIEDRICHER GRÄFENBERG (282º OE) 99/A+
A second Kiedricher Gräfenberg TBA, harvested at an unbelievable
282º Oechsle, 11.5 g/l acidity, 547 g/l residual sugar, displays
aromas I've never previously encountered - it is with intensity and finesse
on a new level and tropical fruit flavors.
Robert Weil 2003 Riesling GOLD KAPSULE TBA
(TROCKENBEERENAUSLESE) KIEDRICHER GRÄFENBERG (316º OE) 99/A+
Last, there is a wine that goes yet further, a Kiedricher Gräfenberg
TBA harvested at 316º Oechsle, 11.4 g/l acidity, 607 g/l residual
sugar. Here we have honeyed apples and apricots, purity, depth, and enormous
concentration. From the Bas up, these are truly legendary wines that can
be expected to easily outlive anyone reading this review. The last two
wines, produced in miniscule quantities of 125 l and 35 l, respectively,
will be offered at auction some time in the future.
Gunderloch Rheinhessen
region
There is plenty of good wine coming from the Rheinhessen these days,
but it was not very long ago that this was the sole estate to draw attention
to the region and remind people that there were great vineyards there
to be exploited. Continuing in the foresighted manner, for export, virtually
all of Gunderloch's production is now closed by screwcaps.
Gunderloch 2003 Riesling dry Score:
85/B FWR 106
Gunderloch 2003 Riesling (dry) Niersteiner Pettenthal
(Spätlese trocken)
The Nierstein Pettenthal is firm with pure mineral flavors and aromas
a dry finish. Drink now-2008. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12 04. Score:
90/B+ FWR 106
Gunderloch 2003 Riesling (dry) Nackenheimer Rothenberg
(trocken)
Gunderloch's Nackenheim Rothenberg, like the preceding wine, is the equivalent
of a Grosses Gewächs (but Gunderloch chooses not to participate in
the program). The wine is perfumed and floral in the nose with honeysuckle
overtones. In the mouth, it shows concentration and is elegant and deep
with dark and yellow plum fruit and walnuts, but not the force of the
finest vintages. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11 04.
Score: 89(+)/B FWR 106
Gunderloch 2003 Riesling Auslese *** , Nackenheimer
Rothenberg
The Ausleseêêê, from the Rothenberg vineyard although
not so indicated on the label, needs a year or two in the cellar but is
successful. This is an off-dry wine intended for meals, especially Asian
cuisines. The very pretty, complex nose is floral with walnuts, smoke,
and oriental spice accents. In the mouth, the wine is round and ripe,
but elegant with floral flavors, depth, and concentration and fine length.
This version seems sweeter than usual. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:0904.
Score: 92/B+ FWR 106
Gunderloch 2003 Jean-Baptiste Riesling Kabinett
A combination of the Rothenberg and Pettenthal vineyards, the Jean-Baptiste
Kabinett has powerful smoke and fruit aromas with depth and concentration,
but still gives an overall impression of elegance, and has apricot fruit.
Overall, the wine is relatively closed and should be better in a few years.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 05 04.
Score: 88(+)/B+ FWR 106
Gunderloch 2003 diva Riesling Spätlese
The Spätlese Diva, shows floral aromas and a juicy, chewy texture
in the mouth with yellow plum flavors, a medium weight and medium sweetness.
The acidity is moderate but correct. It is very pleasant for drinking
over the next 4-5+ years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 10 04.
Score: 87/B- FWR 106
Gunderloch 2003 Riesling Spätlese Nackenheim Rothenberg
The flagship Nackenheim Rothenberg Spätlese is round and ripe with
plum fruit and fairly sweet. This is not the best the vineyard can produce,
but still most enjoyable. Wait 3-5 years to drink it. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 03 04.
Score: 91/A- FWR 106
Gunderloch 2003 Riesling Auslese Nackenheim Rothenberg
The Nackenheim Rothenberg Auslese has spiced plum aromas and flavors,
and is sweet in the mouth, but the overall presentation suggests that
this would be a very good wine for meals. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 04
04.
Score: 93/A- FWR 106
Gunderloch 2003 Riesling Gold Capsule Auslese Nackenheim
Rothenberg
The Nackenheim Rothenberg GKA is pure, nervy, and intense - now we are
beginning to move up to top class. This wine is 10.5% alcohol (compared
to 7.5% for the regular Auslese), but everything is in fine balance. All
it needs is time to mature. Harvested at 149º Oechsle. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 08 04.
Score: 95/A FWR 106
Gunderloch 2003 Riesling Beerenauslese Nackenheimer
Rothenberg
The Nackenheim Rothenberg BA is lively and pure with roses and peaches
in the nose and mouth, and little, if any botrytis showing. Like so many
of the other late harvest wines of this vintage, it will last a lifetime,
yet can be drunk already. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 1804.
Score: 97/A FWR 106
Gunderloch 2003 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Nackenheimer
Rothenberg
The Nackenheim Rothenberg TBA shows some botrytis, very intense apricot
fruit of outstanding purity, and is denser, but less well integrated,
than the BA. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 1904.
Score: 96/A- FWR 106
Reichsrat von Buhl Pfalz
region
von Buhl 2003 Riesling KABINETT TROCKEN (DRY) 86/B
Kabinett trocken (dry). Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 054 04.
von Buhl 2003 Riesling SPÄTLESE TROCKEN (DRY) 90/B+
The Spätlese trocken (dry) is crisp and mineral when served very
cold, which is the way I like it. With a little warming, it becomes creamy
and lemon curd-like with softness and seemingly less depth. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 05 04.
von Buhl 2003 Riesling (DRY) (FORST) PECHSTEIN(GROSSES GEWÄCHS)
93/A
The Pechstein is mineral with peaches, depth, and length. 2008-2025.
von Buhl 2003 Riesling (DRY) (FORST) KIRCHENSTÜCK (GROSSES GEWÄCHS)
94/A
From the Pfalz's greatest vineyard, the Kirchenstück Grosses Gewächs
is perfumed, floral, and round in the nose with a touch of hazelnut. In
the mouth, the wine is dry and rich, not particularly juicy in texture,
but round, powerful, deep, pure, and long with balance. A great wine.
2004-2008(+?). Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 34 04.
von Buhl 2003 Riesling (DRY) (DEIDESHEIM) PARADIESGARTEN(GROSSES GEWÄCHS)
90/B+
The Paradiesgarten is less mineral and expansive than the other first
growths in its peach fruit.
von Buhl 2003 Riesling (DRY) (RUPPERTSBERG) REITERPFAD(GROSSES GEWÄCHS)
92(+)/A
The Reiterpfad Grosses Gewächs is quite fine, too, with floral, even
a bit of leafy (positive) aromas, and austerity and purity in the mouth
with good acidity. 2006-2012. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 33 04.
von Buhl 2003 Riesling HALBTROCKEN (MEDIUM-DRY) MARIA SCHNEIDER 87/A-
The halbtrocken (medium-dry) Maria Schneider has very floral and mineral
aromas that are exotic, almost suggesting Muscat or Gewurztraminer in
power, although not in spiciness. In the mouth, the wine shows good acidity
and is somewhat austere in its minerality. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 19
04.
von Buhl 2003 Riesling ARMAND KABINETT 92/A
Von Buhl's Armand Kabinett is a marvelous wine with a combination of minerality
and slight earthiness, a full body, enough acidity to provide lift, and,
and at least for the moment, only a little suggestion of off-dryness.
Superb for the table. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 02 04.
von Buhl 2003 Riesling SPÄTLESE FORSTER JESUITENGARTEN 90/B+
The Forster Jesuitengarten Spätlese is earthy, deep, mineral and
powerful in the nose, and mineral in the mouth with only an off-dry quality
because of the acidity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 18 04.
von Buhl 2003 Riesling GKA FORSTER KIRCHENSTÜCK 95/A
The Forster Kirchenstück GKA shows some botrytis in the nose and
is round, ripe, spicy and deep in the mouth, almost with a butteriness
to it. Long on the finish. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 27 04.
VON BUHL 2003 RIESLANER AUSLESE FORSTER STIFT 93/A
The Forster Stift Rieslaner Auslese is buttery and rich with some earthiness
in the nose. In the mouth, the wine is earthy with rosewater flavors.
The grapes were harvested at 122º Oechsle with little or no botrytis.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 42 04.
VON BUHL 2003 RIESLING TBA FORSTER UNGEHEUER 97/A
Last, the Forster Ungeheuer TBA is typical of so many of the late harvest
wines of the vintage: velvety in texture, not much botrytis, leaving great
purity of fruit and transparency of terroir. There is an intriguing spiciness
and even a touch of meatiness to the flavors and aromas, but also elegance.
Drink anytime over the next 50+ years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 43 04.
Pfeffingen Pfalz
region
Jan Eymael said that it was his luck in 2003 to have vineyards that held
water, and so he did not have to irrigate. All the vines are more than
20 years old.
Pfeffingen 2003 Riesling dry 86/B+
Trocken (dry). Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 08 04.
Pfeffingen 2003 Riesling SPÄTLESE (DRY)(UNGSTEIN) HERRENBERG (GROSSES
GEWÄCHS) 92/A
The Herrenberg Spätlese Grosses Gewächs showed a salty, mineral
nose with some hazelnut, followed by a nervy, electric mouth with depth,
purity, and minerality. 7.1 g/l acidity, 13.5% alcohol. Last digits of
A.P. Nr.: 15 04.
Pfeffingen 2003 Riesling SPÄTLESE (DRY) (UNGSTEIN) WEILBERG (GROSSES
GEWÄCHS) 93/A
The Weilberg Spätlese Grosses Gewächs is pure and mineral with
lime and peach aromas. In the mouth, the wine shows good acidity with
peach and lime flavors and fine length.
Pfeffingen 2003 PFEFFO Riesling medium-dry 87(+)/A-
The Pfeffo halbtrocken (medium-dry) shows quite a bid of acidity - wait
on this wine until at least summer 2005 to begin to drink it, but there
is great promise for the minerality. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 10 04.
Pfeffingen 2003 Riesling SPÄTLESE (UNGSTEIN) HERRENBERG 89/B
The Herrenberg Spätlese has fresh, pure mineral fruit, but lacks
the depth and liveliness that the wine can have in its best years, pleasant
as it is, though. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 22 04.
Pfeffingen 2003 Scheurebe SPÄTLESE (UNGSTEIN) HERRENBERG 93/A
Although residual sugar is stated at 7.1% for the Herrenberg Scheurebe
Spätlese, the wine initially tastes virtually dry because of the
acid support, but when open a few days, balanced sweetness appears. Marked
by typical roses in the nose and mouth, the body is medium-full and contains
some lime flavors to complement the roses. An excellent wine for a wide
host of food, including red meat, for now and the next 12-20 years. Last
digits of A.P. Nr.: 06 04.
Pfeffingen 2003 Gewürztraminer SPÄTLESE (UNGSTEIN) NUSSRIEGEL
93/A
The Nussriegel Gewürztraminer is spiced in the nose and mouth with
good acidity, and like the previous wine, initially does not show its
full sweetness (6.7%) because of the balancing acidity. I'd drink this
understated charmer over the next 5-8 years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
07 04.
Pfeffingen 2003 Rieslaner AUSLESE (UNGSTEIN) NUSSRIEGEL 93/A
Pfeffingen's Nussriegel Rieslaner Auslese features cherry aromas and flavors
with good acidity, length, and purity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 16 04.
Pfeffingen 2003 Scheurebe GKA (UNGSTEIN) HERRRENBERG 93(+)/A
The Herrenberg Scheurebe GKA shows a botrytised nose and is rich and creamy
on the palate, but also with prickliness from the acidity, some orange
and rose flavors and aromas and plenty of sweetness. Tough to know when
to drink: 2008-2013? Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 1904.
Pfeffingen 2003 Scheurebe Eiswein 93/B
Last, the Scheurebe Eiswein shows pear and guava in the nose. The wine
is quite sweet with guava flavors, decent acidity (9.0 g/l) and good length.
I'd drink relatively young. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 20 04.
Ökonomierat Rebholz
Pfalz region
This estate is from the southern tip of the Pfalz, hard up against Alsace,
not where most of the Pfalz wines seen in the US come from. (In fact,
the region is so far south that some of the producers own vines in France
that they are allowed to bottle as Pfalz.) Hans-Jörg Rebholz explained
that his grandfather in the late 1940s began planting vineyards differently
from others, allowing the grapes to hang free. Add to that a geologically
complex area that allows for selection of varietals to soil and the fact
that Hans-Jörg Rebholz was Hans-Günter Schwarz's first apprentice
at Müller-Catoir (at a time when Schwarz was an unknown), and you
have the makings of one of the jewel domains, not just of the Pfalz, but
of all Germany. Among Rebholz's accomplishments are two of the greatest
German Pinot Noirs that I've encountered.
Rebholz 2001 SPÄTBURGUNDER TROCKEN (DRY) (SIEBELDINGER) IM SONNENSCHEIN
(GROSSES GEWÄCHS) 93/A+
The 2001 Spätburgunder Im Sonnenschein has a spicy, complex, precise,
mineral nose. In the mouth, the wine shows great precision and calm with
some spiciness, the overall result being halfway between Burgundy and
Barolo, but fabulously attractive for drinking now. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 10 03.
Rebholz 2000 SPÄTBURGUNDER (GK) (SIEBELDINGER) IM SONNENSCHEIN(GROSSES
GEWÄCHS) 93/A+
From a most difficult vintage, the 2000 Spätburgunder Im Sonnenschein
Gold Cap is mineral, spicy, deep, and pure. A wonderful wine that has
to be tasted to be believed. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:02 02.
Rebholz 2002 CHARDONNAY 93/A+
I internally groaned as I approached the 2002 Chardonnay, only to be astonished
at the greatness I found in the glass. This wine comes from loess soils,
vines planted at the end of the 1980s, and is 13% in alcohol. It is reductive
and earthy in the nose, not pleasing to all, but lovely to me. In the
mouth, the wine is deep, pure, nervy, and austere like great Chablis.
Should you come across it, don't pass it up. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
013 03.
Rebholz 2003 KABINETT TROCKEN (DRY) 86/B+
Rebholz 2003 VON BUNTSANDSTEIN KABINETT TROCKEN (DRY) 86+/B
Rebholz 2003 VON BUNTSANDSTEIN SPÄTLESE TROCKEN (DRY) 88/B
The von Buntsandstein Spätlese trocken (dry) is pure and mineral
with lime fruit and decent grip. I'd guess early drinking. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 007 04.
Rebholz 2003 (BIRKWEILER) KASTANIENBUSCH (GROSSES GEWÄCHS) 88/B
Rebholz's Kastanienbusch Grosses Gewächs is perfumed and floral in
the nose and mouth but relatively short. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 021
04.
Rebholz 2003 (SEEBELDINGEN) IM SONNENSCHEIN(GROSSES GEWÄCHS) 93/A
The Im Sonnenschein Grosses Gewächs is mineral, deep, pure, and slightly
spicy in the nose. In the mouth, the wine is long, deep, balanced, and
pure with great intensity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 019 04.
Rebholz 2003 Weisser Burgunder SPÄTLESE TROCKEN (DRY) 86(+)/B-
Rebholz 2003 (Seebeldinger) Im Sonnenschein Weisser Burgunder (GROSSES
GEWÄCHS) 87/B
Rebholz's Im Sonnenschein Weisser Burgunder Grosses Gewächs shows
a creamy texture with length but less grip than the previous wine. Last
digits of A.P. Nr.:017 04.
Rebholz 2003 Muskateller Spätlese 90/A-
Turning to the fruity-style wines, the Muskateller Spätlese is pure
and nervy with good acidity and does not show its 14.5% acidity. Last
digits of A.P. Nr.: 02 04.
Rebholz 2003 Gewürztraminer Spätlese 90/A-
The Gewürztraminer Spätlese is spicy and broad with roses in
the nose. In the mouth, the texture is oily but not overwhelming, and
the wine has purity and subtlety. 13% alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
014 04.
Rebholz 2003 Seebeldinger Im Sonnenschein Auslese 93+/A-
Rebholz 2003 Albertswiller Latt Gewürztraminer Auslese 93/A-
Rebholz 2003 Godramsteiner Münzberg Muskateller BA 91/C
Rebholz 2003 Seebeldinger Im Sonnenschein TBA 98/A
The Seebeldinger Im Sonnenschein Auslese has no botrytis, 100g/l of
sugar, about 7 g/l of acidity and about 7.5-8% alcohol. The wine is very
pure with mineral, citrus, and some tropical Riesling flavors - a wine
for the table, not dessert. Now-2030. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 023 04.
The Albertswiller Latt Gewürztraminer Auslese shows rose petal aromas
and flavors with finesse and enough acidity to make the wine dry enough
due to acidity to serve with savories, but enough sweetness to serve on
its own for dessert. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 022 04. The Godramsteiner
Münzberg BEERENAUSLESE has a powerful rose nose. In the mouth, the
wine is not terribly deep and doesn't show much botrytis. It is medium-sweet.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 024 04. The Seebeldinger Im Sonnenschein TBA,
picked at 206º Oechsle and with 250 g/l sugar, is pure and spicy
with botrytis, Riesling flavors, great acidity, and length. A monument
of the vintage. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:026 04.
Hans Wirsching Franken
region
Hans WIRSCHING
2003 Iphöfer Kronsberg Müller-Thurgau Kbt tr 83/
2003 Julius-Echter Berg Kbt tr 85/
2003 Iphöfer Kronsberg Spt tr 87/
2003 Iphöfer Julius-Echter Berg Spt tr 91/
2003 (Iphöfer) Julius Echter Berg* 88(+)/
2003 Iphöfer Kronsberg Silvaner Spt tr 88/
2003 Iphöfer Julius Echter Berg Silvaner Spt tr 88/
2003 (Iphöfer) Julius Echter Berg Silvaner* 89+/
2003 (Iphöfer) Kronsberg Silvaner* 88/
2003 Iphöfer Kronsberg Scheurebe Spt tr 81/
2003 Iphöfer Julius-Echter Berg
Grauburgunder Auslese trocken 91(+)/
2003 Iphöfer Julius Echter Berg
Scheurebe Sptl 91/
2003 Iphöfer Kronsberg Weissburgunder Aus 83/
2003 Iphöfer Kalb Traminer Aus 92/
2003 IPHÖFER KRONSBERG
MÜLLER-THURGAU KABINETT TROCKEN (DRY) 83/C
2003 JULIUS-ECHTER BERG KABINETT TROCKEN (DRY) 85/B-
2003 IPHÖFER KRONSBERG SPÄTLESE TROCKEN (DRY) 87/B-
2003 IPHÖFER JULIUS-ECHTER BERG SPÄTLESE TROCKEN (DRY) 91/A-
2003 (IPHOF) JULIUS ECHTER BERG(GROSSES GEWÄCHS) 88(+)/B
2003 IPHÖFER KRONSBERG SILVANER SPÄTLESE TROCKEN (DRY) 88/B
2003 IPHÖFER JULIUS ECHTER BERG SILVANER SPÄTLESE TROCKEN (DRY)
88/B
2003 (IPHOF) JULIUS ECHTER BERG SILVANER(GROSSES GEWÄCHS) 89+/B+
2003 (IPHOF) KRONSBERG SILVANER(GROSSES GEWÄCHS) 88/B
2003 IPHÖFER KRONSBERG SCHEUREBE SPÄTLESE TROCKEN (DRY) 81/F
2003 (IPHOF) KRONSBERG WEISSBURGUNDER(GROSSES GEWÄCHS) 88(+)/B
2003 IPHÖFER JULIUS-ECHTER BERG
GRAUBURGUNDER AUSLESE TROCKEN (DRY) 91(+)/B+
2003 IPHÖFER JULIUS ECHTER BERG
SCHEUREBE SPÄTLESE 91/A
2003 IPHÖFER KRONSBERG WEISSBURGUNDER AUSLESE 83/D
2003 IPHÖFER KALB TRAMINER AUSLESE 92/A-
Normally among my favorite estates, if not my single favorite, in Franken,
Wirsching's 2003s are generally good, but not up to some of the other
top estates. Yields were extremely low: 11-12 hl/ha for Sylvaner in the
Julius Echter Berg, 5 hl/ha for the Riesling there. Iphöfer Kronsberg
Müller-Thurgau Kabinett trocken (dry). Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 009
04. Julius Echter Berg Kabinett trocken (dry). Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
024 04. The Riesling fruit in the nose and mouth of the Iphöfer Kronsberg
Spätlese trocken (dry) is pleasing with mineral and vanillin overtones,
but the acidity is aggressive and not yet integrated into the wine. Ideally,
wait 2-3 years before starting on this wine. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
012 04. The Iphöfer Julius-Echter Berg Spätlese trocken (dry)
has pure, clean, stony lime and mineral aromas with a creamy texture and
plenty of ripeness. Not classic because it is a bigger wine than normal,
but balanced enough and enjoyable, at least over the near term. The Grosses
Gewächs Julius Echter Berg shows minerality, depth, firmness and
is a little aggressive but overall the wine shows balance and depth and
is interesting. The Iphöfer Kronsberg Silvaner Spätlese trocken
(dry) is mineral with some vanilla overtones in the nose. In the mouth,
it has an oily texture with enough acidity to give grip and is not aggressive
as was the previous wine. Good length. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 011 04.
The Iphöfer Julius Echter Berg Silvaner Spätlese trocken (dry)
has earthy aromas, an oily texture, good integration of acidity with firmness
and length. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 036 04. The Grosses Gewächs
Julius Echter Berg Silvaner is mineral with better balance than the foregoing.
Similarly, the Kronsberg Silvaner Grosses Gewächs, from vines planted
in 1972, is mineral in the nose with more finesse, and quite long in the
mouth, but a bit hot on the finish. Iphöfer Kronsberg Scheurebe Spätlese
trocken (dry). Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 043 04. The Grosses Gewächs
Kronsberg Weissburgunder is leesy, spicy, chewy, dense, and elegant. I
never thought I would give a positive review to a dry wine with a stated
alcohol of 16.5%, but that is the case with Wirsching's Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg
Grauburgunder Auslese trocken (dry). Although this is a white wine, because
it is Pinot Gris (Grauburgunder), this is red meat wine all the way. Slightly
earthy with cashew aromas, the wine is oily in the mouth with some creaminess,
and cashew and walnut flavors. Not the slightest hint of heat from alcohol
on the finish(!). Aging capacity:? Be careful if you drive after enjoying
this wine. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 035 04. Although labeled Spätlese,
the Iphöfer Julius Echter-Berg Scheurebe Spätlese is really
an off-dry wine, with the sugar more round more than sweet. Rose aromas
and a rich body with mineral and rose flavors. Most intriguing. The Iphöfer
Kalb Traminer Auslese is a fascinating wine. The rose nose more familiar
from the closely-related Gewürztraminer grape, is followed by a full
body with smoothness, spicy, slightly buttery fruit, and sweetness. A
wine that can be either consumed with a meal or on its own. Again, I have
no idea of aging capacity here, but it is lovely now.
Rudolf Fürst
Franken region
Ruldolf FÜRST
2003 trocken 85/
2003 (Bürgstadt) Centgrafenberg
Weisser Burgunder "r" (tkn) 85/
2003 (Burgstadt) centgrafenberg Sptl 90/
2003 MÜLLER-THURGAU 86/A-
2003 TROCKEN (DRY) 85/B
2003 (BÜRGSTADT) CENTGRAFENBERG SPÄTLESE TROCKEN (DRY) 91/A-
2003 (BÜRGSTADT) CENTGRAFENBERG "R" SPÄTLESE TROCKEN
(DRY) 92/A
2003 (BÜRGSTADT) CENTGRAFENBERG SILVANER TROCKEN (DRY) 87/A
2003 BUNTSANDSTEIN-TERRASSEN
ALTER SATZ VON RIESLING & SILVANER TROCKEN (DRY) 90/A
2003 (BÜRGSTADT) CENTGRAFENBERG
WEISSER BURGUNDER (TROCKEN (DRY)) 86/B
2003 (BÜRGSTADT) CENTGRAFENBERG
WEISSER BURGUNDER "R" (TROCKEN (DRY)) 85/B-
2003 (BÜRGSTADT) CENTGRAFENBERG SPÄTLESE 90/B+
2003 (BÜRGSTADT) CENTGRAFENBERG GKA 92/B+
2003 (BÜRGSTADT) CENTGRAFENBERG RIESLANER AUSLESE 89/B
2003 (BÜRGSTADT) CENTGRAFENBERG TBA 94/B-
2003 (BÜRGSTADT) CENTGRAFENBERG
SPÄTBURGUNDER "R" 80/F
2003 (BÜRGSTADT) CENTGRAFENBERG TRAMINER "R" 84/C+
2003 (BÜRGSTADT) CENTGRAFENBERG
2002 SPÄTBURGUNDER TRADITION 88/A
2002 (BÜRGSTADT) CENTGRAFENBERG
SPÄTBURGUNDER 91/A
2002 (BÜRGSTADT) CENTGRAFENBERG
SPÄTBURGUNDER "R" 91/A
2002 (BÜRGSTADT) CENTGRAFENBERG
FRÜHBURGUNDER 86/B+
2002 (BÜRGSTADT) CENTGRAFENBERG
FRÜHBURGUNDER 94/A+
Paul Fürst did not acidify any wines except the Müller-Thurgau.
Fürst says that beginning in 2003, he wants to change his wines,
looking for less fat, thereby making them better with food. Müller-Thurgau.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 011 04. Trocken (dry). Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
008 04. The Centgrafenberg Spätlese trocken (dry) has aromas of orange
zest and hazelnut and is elegant and pure with minerality in the mouth.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 005 04. Fürst's reserve Centgrafenberg "R"
Spätlese trocken (dry) has mineral aromas, slightly better acidity
and is chewy with more depth than the regular Spätlese and some layering.
The overall impression is of purity and clarity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
006 04. The Centgrafenberg Silvaner trocken (dry) has stone and light
floral aromas, followed in the mouth by a creamy texture with enough acidity,
making for an elegant wine. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 010 04. The Buntsandstein-Terrassen
alter Satz von Riesling & Silvaner trocken (dry) is a mixture of Riesling
and Sylvaner from colored, terraced sandstone vineyards. The wine is floral
in the nose and stonier in the mouth than the foregoing with minerality,
although less mineral than the Rieslings, a chewy texture, and good length.
Good for drinking over the next 4-5 years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 016
04. Centgrafenberg Weisser Burgunder. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 019 04.
Centgrafenberg Weisser Burgunder "R". Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
020 04. The Centgrafenberg Spätlese is an off-dry wine (12.0% stated
alcohol) with some pickup from acidity lemony flavors and a fairly rich
body. It should be good with a meal and ideally needs 3-5 years' cellaring.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 007-04. Fürst's Centgrafenberg GKA shows
mineral aromas and is sweet on the palate with elegance. The wine is light
in body, but it makes sense with the elegant peach fruit. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 03 04. The Centgrafenberg Rieslaner Auslese is richer and
more powerful with some earthiness. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 014 04. The
Centgrafenberg TBA was picked on 15 October and has 380 g/l of sugar (!)
and 11.8 g/l of acidity. The wine shows botrytis and is very dense and
sweet - this is true TBA style with honey and brown sugar dominating,
yet does not thrill me as much as it should. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
025 04.
From the TBA, we then go back to the red wines. Centgrafenberg Traminer
"R". Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 023 04. There is some variability
in the Spät- and Frühburgunder, but Fürst shows talent,
and if he can resist the temptation that is common in Germany to overmake
the wine, he can achieve outstanding results. The 2002 Spätburgunder
Tradition is raised in large casks, all of old wood. It is pure in the
nose with some smoke and raspberry elements. In the mouth, the wine is
full and pure with red fruits and good balance. Although somewhat simple,
it is attractive (and perhaps would be even better with a little less
than its 13% alcohol). Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 025-03. The 2002 Centgrafenberg
Spätburgunder is raised 1/3 in new wood and has 13.5% alcohol. The
wine shows sandalwood and juicy red fruit aromas, followed by a rich mouth
with a chewy texture and some red fruits, | 