Mönchhof / Robert Eymael
Mosel region
MÖNCHHOF 2004 RIESLING -
89/A points FWR
Eymael's Riesling QbA, the fruit of which comes from Ürziger Würzgarten,
is racy, mineral, and spicy with great supporting acid-ity and Kabinett-like
acid/sugar balance. It is one of the showcases of the value that can be
obtained from QbA wines from top producers.
MÖNCHHOF 2004 RIESLING KABINETT ÜRZIGER
WÜRZGARTEN - 91/A
points FWR
The Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett is a racy wine with
Würzgarten spice and dustiness in the nose, a good acid attack in
the mouth, and slightly spiced strawberry flavors. A fair amount of sweetness
here, but with the acidity to cut it. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 006 05.
MÖNCHHOF 2004 MOSEL SLATE RIESLING SPÄTLESE
- 92(+)/A points FWR
The Mosel Slate Riesling Spätlese, which is from the Erdener Treppchen
vineyard, displays the richness and power of the Treppchen vineyard with
plenty of typical peach fruit. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 10 05.
MÖNCHHOF 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE ÜRZIGER
WÜRZGARTEN - 92+/A
points FWR
The Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese is pure, spiced,
and nervy with excellent Würzgarten character, something that has
been lacking from many of the examples I've tried from other producers
in recent years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 007 05.
MÖNCHHOF 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE ERDENER TREPPCHEN
- 91/B points FWR
The Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese is an elegant wine with some delicacy
to the structure and acid/sugar interplay, and no apparent botrytis underlying
its nectarine fruit. This is almost Spätlese-like and I'd be inclined
to consume it as I would a Spätlese. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 08
05.
MÖNCHHOF 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE ERDENER PRÄLAT-
93/A- points FWR
Mönchhof's Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese has a creamy texture
and is elegant with a spiced nose and mouth and apple and red currant
flavors. Little, if any, botrytis is evident. It is very approachable
now, but I think it should be even better with at least 8-10 years' cellaring.
This wine can double as either an accompaniment to savory food or as a
dessert wine. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 009 05.
Reinhold Haart Mosel
region
Haart is one of the most consistently outstanding and one of the most
underrated producers in Germany: definitely worth an effort to find his
best wines. Haart now calls all that is not bottled as Erste Lage merely
by its generic village name and Prädikat (Kabinett, Spätlese,
etc.), see below.
REINHOLD HAART 2004 HAART TO HEART (AP 05)
86+/B+ points FWR
Haart to Heart QbA, showed dry, stony, and mineral with marked Piesporter
peach flavors and incisiveness and presented plenty of promise for further
development over the next several years. Good value.
REINHOLD HAART 2004 PIESPORTER RIESLING KABINETT
88(+)/B+ points FWR
The Piesporter Riesling Kabinett is opulent in the mouth with richness,
an almost creamy texture, sweetness approaching what one expects of a
Spätlese (despite 9.5% stated alcohol), but supported by enough acidity,
and typical Piesport peach and apricot flavors and aromas. Drink now-2007
and then 2012-2020. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 04 05.
REINHOLD HAART 2004 PIESPORTER GOLDTRÖPFCHEN
RIESLING KABINETT Erste Lage
94/A+ points FWR
The Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett is at more typical
alcohol levels for Kabinett, stated at 8.0%. This is everything one expects
of a great Goldtröpfchen Kabinett: balanced, easy to drink, not too
sweet, lively acidity, excellent definition of the apri-cot and peach
fruit. Drink over the next 2-3 years if you must, but ideally, 2012-2024.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 0905
REINHOLD HAART 2004 (WINTRICHER) OHLIGSBERGER RIESLING
SPÄTLESE Erste Lage
90/ B+ points FWR
. The Ohligsberger Riesling Spätlese shows a fair amount of sweetness
and an elegant body (only 7.5% stated alcohol here) with some race and
apricot, peach and pear fruit. It is good, but doesn't compete with many
earlier vintages. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12 05.
REINHOLD HAART 2004 PIESPORTER RIESLING SPÄTLESE
92/A points FWR
The Piesporter Riesling Spätlese displays floral apricot aromas and
the rich, dense texture associated with Haart's wines plus peach, apricot,
and orange rind flavors. Now-2007 and 2012-2020. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:05
05.
REINHOLD HAART 2004 PIESPORTER GOLDTRÖPFCHEN
RIESLING SPÄTLESE Erste Lage 94(+)/A
points FWR
The Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese is tighter, slightly
leaner, more focused, and racier. Glory to those with the wis-dom and
patience to age this wine 7-10 years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:1005.
REINHOLD HAART 2004 PIESPORTER GOLDTRÖPFCHEN
RIESLING AUSLESE Erste Lage 95(+)/A points
FWR
Last, the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Auslese shows excellent
acid/sugar balance with depth and finesse. Not much bo-trytis showing,
this is a wine that can take its place either with a meal or as a dessert
wine. 2014-2039. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11 05.
Fritz Haag Mosel region
From the earliest days that I reviewed German wines, I have considered
this one of the two greatest estates in the Mosel and one of the handful
of greatest in all of Germany. Wilhelm Haag is now in the process of ceding
stewardship to his more than able son Oliver. The wines still need more
time to develop but are superb.
FRITZ HAAG 2004 RIESLING 88/A
points FWR
The Riesling (a halbtrocken, but not so labeled) is extraordinary in this
vintage with pear and mineral flavors and aromas and roundness but not
sweetness. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 1 05.
FRITZ HAAG 2004 RIESLING KABINETT BRAUNEBERGER JUFFER
91/A points FWR
The Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett is slightly spicy and very stony
in its fruit, making for a lovely Kabinett. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 3
05.
FRITZ HAAG 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE BRAUNEBERGER
JUFFER 90/B+ points FWR
The Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese is light, elegant, and
easy to drink with lime fruit and a smooth texture. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 5 05.
FRITZ HAAG 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE BRAUNEBERGER
JUFFER-SONNENUHR 92(+)/A points FWR
Haag's Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese shows extra
minerality, length, depth, and purity. It will be a beauty with 5-7 years'
bottle age. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 7 05.
FRITZ HAAG 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE #06 BRAUNEBERGER
JUFFER-SONNENUHR 94+/A points FWR
The Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese #06 has grapefruit
and pineapple aromas and flavors with length and purity - this needs time,
but will be superb. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 6 05.
FRITZ HAAG 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE #09 (GOLD CAPSULE)
BRAUNEBERGER JUFFER-SONNENUHR 95+/A points
FWR
The Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Gold Cap Riesling Auslese #9 shows more
botrytis with fine purity to its pineapple fruit. As one would expect,
there will be a treasure here with sufficient aging. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 9 05.
von Hövel Saar valley
VON HÖVEL 2004 RIESLING "BALDUIN VON HÖVEL"
89/A points FWR
The estate Riesling is a remarkable wine with stony aromas and flavors,
great attack, and a steely texture. Drink over the next 5-8+ years. Last
digits of A.P. Nr.: 1-05.
VON HÖVEL 2004 RIESLING KABINETT OBEREMMELER
HÜTTE 92/A points FWR
The Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Kabinett takes more time than the
Scharzhofberg to open, but when it does, it is pure and mineral with a
beautiful firm structure and gives great promise for 10-12 years of enjoyment,
minimum. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 4-05.
VON HÖVEL 2004 RIESLING KABINETT SCHARZHOFBERG
91/A points FWR
The Scharzhofberg Riesling Kabinett is one of the best examples I can
recall from von Hövel with excellent crispness from the acidity and
lovely lime and mineral fruit. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 5-05.
VON HÖVEL 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE OBEREMMELER
HÜTTE 93/A points FWR
The Obermmeler Hütte Riesling Spätlese is bright and pure in
its slate-driven fruit with fine acidity, making for a most promis-ing
wine. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 6-05.
VON HÖVEL 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE SCHARZHOFBERG
91/A- points FWR
Von Hövel's Scharzhofberg Riesling Spätlese shows the firm,
relatively full texture of the vineyard and some lime flavors and aromas,
but the depth and precision of the finest examples of the vineyard are
not there. Still, very enjoyable and should age well. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 7-05.
VON HÖVEL 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE OBEREMMELER
HÜTTE 94+/A points FWR
The Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Auslese is pure and stony with excellent
depth and acidity and will handsomely repay those who cellar it 8-10 years
or more. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 8-05.
VON HÖVEL 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE SCHARZHOFBERG
93/A- points FWR
The Scharzhofberg Riesling Auslese is broad and powerful with good acidity.
But this wine resembles a Spätlese more than an Auslese and I would
use it as a Spätlese, i.e., for aperitifs and meals. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 9-05
VON HÖVEL 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE KANZEMER HÖRECKER†
93(+)/A points FWR
The Kanzemer Hörecker Riesling Auslese has diesel and peach aromas
and flavors and is firm and relatively dry for an Auslese, showing the
dusty austerity that is typical of Kanzem wines. It features spicy, stony,
incipient apricot fruit. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:10-05.
VON HÖVEL 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE OBEREMMELER
HÜTTE ** 92(+)/B+ points FWR
The Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Auslese ** (the equivalent of a gold
cap Auslese) has significant botrytis in both nose and mouth and shows
undeveloped apple fruit with a firm, medium-weight body and some, but
not overwhelming, perceptible sweet-ness. It is a wine that will develop
slowly and my initial evaluation may well prove too conservative. Last
digits of A.P. Nr.:11-05.
Karthäuserhof Ruwer valley
The last several vintages have been nothing short of magnificent at this
estate, which is capable of producing some of the greatest wines ever
in all of Germany - and that's saying something. Even among those past
several vintages, the top of the line here is really something special
in 2004. In the convoluted world of German wine labels, feinherb has no
definite meaning, although it often is used to designate a medium-dry
wine, as is the case here.
KARTHÄUSERHOF 2004 Riesling FEINHERB
86/ B+ points FWR
The feinherb is fruity and round from the residual sugar and alcohol (12%
stated alcohol), but the acidity makes it seem dry. The wine is relatively
simple, but immensely enjoyable. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 03 05.
KARTHÄUSERHOF 2004 RIESLING KABINETT FEINHERB
EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG 87/B points
FWR
The Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Kabinett feinherb shows
greater electricity and acidity with nectarine fruit and a lingering finish.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 06 05
KARTHÄUSERHOF 2004 RIESLING KABINETT
EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG 91(+)/A
points FWR
The Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Kabinett has the attack
typical of the estate with richness to the apple and nectar-ine fruit.
With aging, this could be magnificent. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 07 05.
KARTHÄUSERHOF 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE
EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG 94(+)/A
points FWR
Try not to miss the great Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling
Spätlese, a wine with a great attack and deep, pure, fruit with brilliant
electricity, recalling the great 1990 vintage. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
10 05
KARTHÄUSERHOF 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE
EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG 94+/A
points FWR
.. The "regular" Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling
Auslese is stony, pure, and deep, and in need of several years to de-velop
its full potential. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12 05.
KARTHÄUSERHOF 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE (GOLD CAP)
#55
EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG 96(+)/A
points FWR
The Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Gold Capsule Riesling Auslese
#55 is dense and deep, showing plenty of botrytis, and in need of 8-10
years' cellaring for its full magnificence to come out. Last digits of
A.P. Nr.: 14 05.
KARTHÄUSERHOF 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE (GOLD CAP)
#52
EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG 99/A+
points FWR
Did I say some of the greatest wines ever in all Germany? The Eitelsbacher
Karthäuserhofberg Gold Capsule Riesling Auslese #53 starts with the
stony aromas and flavors typical of this great property and slowly they
yield to the addition of fresh and dried apricot fruit that will develop
further with time. All this is bound together with a beautiful acid/sugar
balance, and an overall weight and quality that suggest that this wine
may technically be a small BA. This is one of the must stunning and technically
perfect wines I've ever experienced. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 15-05.
KARTHÄUSERHOF 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE (LONG GOLD
CAP, AUCTION) #53
EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG 99/A+
points FWR
The Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Long Gold Cap Riesling Auslese
#52 is nearly of the same quality, with slightly riper, more forward fruit
and a little extra spiciness, but maybe not quite the same level of perfection
in sugar/acid balance, great as it is. Time will tell if this is the equal
of the #53. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 16-05.
KARTHÄUSERHOF 2004 RIESLING EISWEIN # 49
EITELSBACHER KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG 98/A points
FWR
Last, the Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Eiswein #49 is pure essence-of-Riesling
fruit with Karthäuserhof stony aromas and powerful acidity to underlie
the heavy, sappy texture. This is a wine that I expect to live and stay
this pure for many decades. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 18-05.
Schloss Lieser Mosel
valley
Absolutely no doubt that Thomas Haag is doing a first-rate job at this
estate, and it is even more interesting now that he has Brau-neberger
Juffer-Sonnenuhr to compare with that of his father and brother at Fritz
Haag. Thomas's BJ-S's have a higher must weight and that, together with
the use of wild yeasts, among winemaking differences, makes his wines
seem denser and more powerful than those of Fritz Haag.
SCHLOSS LIESER 2004 RIESLING HALBTROCKEN 86/B+
points FWR
The halbtrocken is off-dry, spritzy, and citric. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
2 05
SCHLOSS LIESER 2004 RIESLING KABINETT 89/A-
points FWR
The Kabinett, from the Graacher Himmelreich vineyard, is off-dry with
penetrating lime fruit. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 3 05.
SCHLOSS LIESER 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE LIESER
NIEDERBERG HELDEN 91/A- points FWR
The Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Spätlese is pretty with richness
and depth with some vanilla overtones, almost like a Wehlener Sonnenuhr.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 5 05
SCHLOSS LIESER 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE BRAUNEBERGER
JUFFER-SONNENUHR 93/A points FWR
Lieser's Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese is leesy,
elegant and long and should develop into an excellent wine with further
bottle age. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11 05.
SCHLOSS LIESER 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE LIESER NIEDERBERG
HELDEN 93+/A- points FWR
The Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese is citric, pure, and elegant,
not terribly sweet at this point. It, too, needs time in the bottle. Last
digits of A.P. Nr.: 7 05.
SCHLOSS LIESER 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE BRAUNEBERGER
JUFFER SONNENUHR 94/A points FWR
Thomas Haag is giving his father Wilhelm and his brother Olivier at Fritz
Haag a good run for the money with this sensational Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr
Riesling Auslese. The wine is a great expression of slate with blueberry,
cassis, and lemon aro-mas and flavors and a firm structure. It is irresistible
already. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12 05.
SCHLOSS LIESER 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE ** (GOLD CAP)
LIESER NIEDERBERG HELDEN 95/A points FWR
The Lieser Niederberg Helden Gold Cap Riesling Auslese ** is extraordinary
for its strong, pure, ripe peach flavors in an ele-gant, supple body,
very different from the stonier, more forceful Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr.
This beauty has the balance to age gracefully, but it is no sacrifice
to consume it now. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 8 05.
SCHLOSS LIESER 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE FUDER 14 (GOLD
CAP)
BRAUNEBERGER JUFFER-SONNENUHR 96/A points
FWR
.. The Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Gold Cap Riesling Auslese Fuder 14
is simply sensational: pure, rich, and elegant with stoniness that clearly
shows the terroir of this wine. Don't miss it if you come across it. Last
digits of A.P. Nr.: 14 05.
Milz-Laurentiushof Mosel
valley
This is a very successful lineup at Milz. The sugar/acid balance of these
wines is extremely sensitive, so be especially vigilant that you serve
them well-chilled.
MILZ 2004 RIESLING KABINETT TRITTENHEIMER
86/B+ points FWR
The Trittenheimer Riesling Kabinett is not a good indicator of the quality
of this estate in 2004. The wine is fat, rich, and sweet with light minerality
and apple flavors. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 07 05.
MILZ 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE TRITTENHEIMER APOTHEKE
91/A- points FWR
Incipient peach/apricot aromas and flavors, very Piesport-like, mark the
Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese. The wine shows good acidity
and crispness and is lovely to drink already. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
08 05.
MILZ 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE TRITTENHEIMER LEITERCHEN
92(+)/A points FWR
The Trittenheimer Leiterchen Riesling Spätlese is stony with some
peach and medium dryness. A very pleasing upper Mosel Spätlese. Last
digits of A.P. Nr.: 009 05.
MILZ 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE TRITTENHEIMER FELSENKOPF
92(+)/A points FWR
The Trittenheimer Felsenkopf Riesling Spätlese shows peach and orange
flavors and aromas and good nervosity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 10 05.
MILZ 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE TRITTENHEIMER FELSENKOPF
93/A- points FWR
The Trittenheimer Felsenkopf Riesling Auslese is classic Mosel with strong
slate and mineral aromas and flavors and a beauti-ful, harmonious balance
of cutting acid and just enough sugar. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:11 05.
Wegeler (Mosel) Mosel
region
Wegeler (Mosel) 2004 RIESLING 87(+)/A- points FWR
Wegeler's QbA Riesling is firm and juicy with orange fruits and good length.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 06 05.
Wegeler (Mosel) 2004 RIESLING KABINETT WEHLENER SONNENUHR
90/A points FWR
The Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett displays Sonnenuhr vanillins
in the nose and mouth, richness, and a lively acidic attack. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 08 05.
Wegeler (Mosel) 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE WEHLENER
SONNENUHR 92(+)/A points FWR
The Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese is spicy with Sonnenuhr
vanillins and lime aromas and flavors. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12 05.
Wegeler (Mosel) 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE BERNKASTELER
DOCTOR 93/A points FWR
As usual, prototypical Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Spätlese here:
pure, crystalline, mineral, racy, and impeccably balanced. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 13 05.
Wegeler (Mosel) 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE BERNKASTELER
DOCTOR 95/A points FWR
The Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Auslese has the same profile as the Spätlese
but with more sweetness and power, making for the proverbial iron fist
in a velvet glove. The wine features classic slate fruit with just a hint
of orange peel. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 16 05.
Wegeler (Mosel) 2005 RIESLING EISWEIN BERNKASTELER
DOCTOR 95/A- points FWR
The Bernkastler Doctor Eiswein has the classic essence of Riesling aromas
and flavors. In the mouth, it is a bit juicy and lacks the cutting edge
that I associate with the very best of Eisweine. Still, it is a delicious
drink, one that I am inclined to consume young. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
2105.
DR. F. WEINS-PRÜM Mosel region
As I've mentioned before, not to be confused with a producer with a similar
name, Dr. Weins-Prüm (that one has no first name initial F. and is
not a member of the VDP, which is marked by the stylized black eagles
on the upper corners of the label and the capsule for Dr. F. Weins-Prüm).
DR. F. WEINS-PRÜM (VDP) 2004 RIESLING HALBTROCKEN
87/A- points FWR
The halbtrocken displays peach and mango aromas and peach flavors with
length. There is acidity here, but the residual sugar, while not perceptible
as sweet, provides roundness to the wine. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 14
05.
DR. F. WEINS-PRÜM (VDP) 2004 RIESLING KABINETT
GRAACHER HIMMELREICH 90+/A points FWR
The Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett is pure, nervy, electric, and
stony, and only needs some time in the bottle to achieve its full harmony.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 6-05.
DR. F. WEINS-PRÜM (VDP) 2004 RIESLING KABINETT
GRAACHER DOMPROBST 93/A+ points FWR
Bert Selbach's Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett is as fine an example
of Mosel Kabinett as you could want: light and flowery with elegant lemon
and lime slate fruit. Lovely for drinking now, and should easily last
10-15+ years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 3 05.
DR. F. WEINS-PRÜM (VDP) 2004 RIESLING KABINETT
WEHLENER SONNENUHR 92(+)/A points FWR
The Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett is pure and mineral with succulence
and it, too, needs more time to come together, but all the elements are
there. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 1-05.
DR. F. WEINS-PRÜM (VDP) 2004 RIESLING KABINETT
ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN 90/A points FWR
The Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett shows some of the spiciness
characteristic of the vineyard along with steely lime aromas and flavors,
but it lacks the grip and race of the Domprobst. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
9 05.
DR. F. WEINS-PRÜM (VDP) 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE
WEHLENER SONNENUHR
94/A points FWR#110
Bert Selbach’s Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese is a gem. It shows
beautiful, pure crystalline lime zest and mineral aromas with some floral
overtones. In the mouth, the wine is light and airy with crystalline lemon-lime
fruit and a lovely nervosity from the acidity. The acidity is a bit delicate,
though, so I’d drink this wine over the next 4-6 years. This is a
model to demonstrate Mosel wines.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 2-05.
DR. F. WEINS-PRÜM (VDP) 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE
GRAACHER HIMMELREICH 90/B+ points FWR
Weins-Prüm's Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese shows a
creamy texture, incipient peach flavors, and overall class, even if it
can't compete with the depth and complexity of the best wines here. Last
digits of A.P. Nr.: 7 05.
DR. F. WEINS-PRÜM (VDP) 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE
GRAACHER DOMPROBST 93/A points FWR
The Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese is a classic example of
that great vineyard with steely, slate aromas and flavors and a hint of
sultana raisin. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 4 05.
DR. F. WEINS-PRÜM (VDP) 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE
ERDENER PRÄLAT 94/A points FWR
The Erdener Prälat Riesling Spätlese is especially fine with
the ripe apricot fruit and the creamy texture that are typical of the
vineyard and also excellent supporting acidity. Not tasting especially
sweet - no doubt due to the balancing acidity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
8-05.
DR. F. WEINS-PRÜM (VDP) 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE
(GOLD CAP) GRAACHER DOMPROBST 93/A- points
FWR
The very high acidity and essence-of-Riesling quality of the fruit suggest
to me that this is a wine that was intended as an Eiswein, but because
of the botrytis, that designation was abandoned. I personally think that
botrytis interferes with the purity of fruit ob-tained with Eiswein, and
for that reason, I mark the wine down, although some will be much more
delighted with it than I. It's really a question of style. Very well made,
at any rate, pure and crystalline and from a very great site. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 13 05.
Joh. Jos. Prüm
Mosel valley
Prüm has various lots of wines, so these wines, tasted from barrel
samples, should be taken as roughly indicative of what you will find in
bottle. I anticipate having reviews from bottle for the second review
of 2004s.
JJ PRÜM 2004 RIESLING KABINETT WEHLENER SONNENUHR
(90-93) points FWR
The Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett is very mineral in the nose,
and pure in the mouth with piercing acidity and beauti-ful balance. It
is a lighter wine, easy to drink.
JJ PRÜM 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE GRAACHER
HIMMELREICH (91-94) points FWR
The Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese is notable for being slate-driven
and filigreed in the quality of its fruit.
JJ PRÜM 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE WEHLENER
SONNENUHR (93-96) points FWR
The Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese is pure and pinpoint in
its precision, more penetrating than the Himmelreich. Lovely and one of
the grandest Spätlesen of the vintage (no surprise).
JJ PRÜM 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE WEHLENER SONNENUHR
(92-95) points FWR
Last, the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese is closed and not as expressive
as the Spätlese, but still shows potential for those willing to hold
it 8-10 years.
JOH. JOS. PRÜM
2004 DR. M. PRÜM 85+/B
2004 GRAACHER HIMMELREICH KABINETT 88/B
2004 WEHLENER SONNENUHR KABINETT 92/A
2004 GRAACHER HIMMELREICH SPÄTLESE 93(+)/A
2004 WEHLENER SONNENUHR SPÄTLESE 94(+)/A
2004 GRAACHER HIMMELREICH AUSLESE 93(+)/A-
2004 WEHLENER SONNENUHR AUSLESE 94(+)/A
My thanks to Manfred Prüm that he continues to make some of the most
traditional, and hence some of the most age-worthy (as
well as some of the greatest) wines around. Because of their time on the
lees and the sulfur, Prüm wines always seem to need time,
and the even includes the estate Riesling, Dr. M. Prüm. The lees
contact gives the wine a floral shrubbery nose for now, and in the
mouth, there is mostly acidity showing, but come back in a few years,
and you’ll find something worth your while. Last digits of
A.P. Nr.: 04 05. The Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett has a typically young,
leesy Prüm nose, but the walnut skin and lime elements
are there. In the mouth, the wine lacks some of the grip that I would
expect, but there is a lack of grip and depth that one
can find in the best vintages. Drink 2009-2019. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
06 05. The Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett shows a similar
leesy nose, but in the mouth contains more richness and depth with the
grip one expects. Wait 4-6 years on this wine, but you will
be rewarded with a superb Kabinett. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 08 05. Prüm’s
Graacher Himmelreich Spätlese is still young, leesy,
and sulfurous, but the wine already displays depth, a powerful medium-weight
body, and crystalline lime fruit. 5-8 years in the cellar
will amply repay the investment. Excellent concentration and depth here,
as well as the the flowery, filigree quality that makes Mosel
wines so special. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11 05. The Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Spätlese likewise is leesy but it is deep in the nose and
mouth. In the mouth, the wine is sweet with mineral fruit and steeliness,
purity, and a lovely balance. This is typical young Prüm
wine, difficult for most to take young, but it will turn into one of the
most beautiful swans of the vintage with age. 2014-2034. Last
digits of A.P. Nr.: 13 05. Prüm’s Graacher Himmelreich Auslese
is not terribly sweet for the moment because of the fine acidity.
Lots of leesiness in this wine, as one expects from young Prüms,
but the depth and concentration are apparent. Put this down for 7-
10 years and you will have a classic Himmelreich, either for meals or
on its own. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 14 05. The Wehlener Sonnenuhr
Auslese is, typically, a bit broader and deeper, with its typical vanilla
overtones. In 8-12 years this will be a fine example of
www.finewinereview.com THE FINE WINE REVIEW Number 110 6
what Prüm does at this flagship vineyard, but I doubt that it will
be one of the legends. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12 05. Importer:
Cellars Int’l, Carlsbad, CA.
Bert Simon / Herrenberg
Saar valley
One of the most underrated estates in Germany, no, you can probably say
the world. Simon's vines are at the southern-most end of the Saar and
impossibly steep.
BERT SIMON 2004 RIESLING KABINETT HALBTROCKEN SERRIG
WÜRTZBERG 91/A points FWR
The Serrig Würtzberg Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken is a gorgeous
wine for its steely minerality. The residual sugar acts to round the rough
edges out but not to supply any sweetness to the wine. Drink over the
next 12-15 years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 07-05.
BERT SIMON 2004 RIESLING 88/A
points FWR
The Riesling is lovely, with a richness and vanilla overtones that in
fact suggest Wehlener Sonnenuhr and with excellent concentra-tion and
brilliant acidity in the mouth. Drink now-2015. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
12 05.
BERT SIMON 2004 RIESLING KABINETT SERRIG WÜRTZBERG
91/A points FWR
The Serrig Würtzberg Riesling Kabinett is stony with apple fruit,
firm texture, and invigorating acidity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 06 05.
BERT SIMON 2004 RIESLING KABINETT SERRIG HERRENBERG
89/A- points FWR
Simon's Serrig Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett has lovely peach, rose, and
pineapple aromas and flavors with plenty of richness (but the alcohol
is only 8.5%). Good purity, too. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 4 05.
BERT SIMON 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE SERRIG WÜRTZBERG
92(+)/A points FWR
The Serrig Würtzberg Riesling Spätlese shows strong peach aromas
and flavors and is rich and ripe in the mouth, making for a classic Saar
wine. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 05 05.
Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz)
Saar valley
ZILLIKEN 2004 RIESLING FEINHERB "BUTTERFLY"
87/A- points FWR
The Butterfly Riesling is kept dry by the acidity, and is round and electric
in the mouth, but not terribly complex. Still, a very good representation
of the Saar. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 14 05.
ZILLIKEN 2004 RIESLING 86/B+
points FWR
The attack of the Riesling is not as electric as that of the previous
wine, but I find Saar concentration and firmness with depth to the fruit.
This wine, although drinkable now, should be even better with 4-5 years'
cellaring. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 8 05.
ZILLIKEN 2004 RIESLING KABINETT OCKFENER BOCKSTEIN
86/B points FWR
Zilliken's Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett, too, lacks some grip,
but has pleasing apple and lemon fruit. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 6 05.
ZILLIKEN 2004 RIESLING KABINETT SAARBURGER RAUSCH
88(+)/B+ points FWR
The Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett is lower in grip than I would
expect, as has been the case for several years with Zil-liken's wines,
but shows attractive peach fruit. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 5 05.
ZILLIKEN 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE SAARBURGER RAUSCH
91+/A- points FWR
The Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese shows peach fruit and does
show the grip that I expect from these wines. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
4 05.
ZILLIKEN 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE SAARBURGER RAUSCH
93+/A- points FWR
The Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese shows fine balance with strawberry
and white peach fruit and excellent concentration. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 3 05.
von Schleinitz Mosel
Saar Ruwer region
not yet reviewed
Schäfer-Fröhlich Nahe
region
Because of Tim Fröhlich's youth, one is tempted to label him one
of the stars of the next generation, but the truth is, he is a star already.
If you don't know his wines, do yourself a favor by making the effort
to locate some - this is an extremely talented pro-ducer. Due to hail
in June, yields here were just 40 hl/ha.
SCHÄFER-FRÖHLICH 2004 RIESLING (DRY) BOCKENAUER
FELSENECK
(GROSSES GEWÄCHS) 93+/A points FWR
The Bockenauer Felseneck is a stylistic combination of the two following
wines with the white flower aromas of the Früh-linsplätzchen
and the richer, slightly coarser, more mineral flavors of the Halenberg.
It is also the most forward of the three and is the one that I would choose
for dinner tonight, although it no doubt will age well. Last digits of
A.P. Nr.: 27 05.
SCHÄFER-FRÖHLICH 2004 RIESLING (DRY) MONZINGER
FRÜHLINGSPLÄTZCHEN
(GROSSES GEWÄCHS) 93/A points FWR
The acidity on the Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen is sterner and
more marked than for most wines of the vintage. Very subtle, pure and
very crystalline, with white flower aromas and eventually sophisticated
pineapple flavors, demanding at least 3-5 years' aging, but very promising.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 28 05.
SCHÄFER-FRÖHLICH 2004 RIESLING (DRY) MONZINGER
HALENBERG
(GROSSES GEWÄCHS) 93(+)/A points FWR
The Monzinger Halenberg, from slate soils, is rounder and less ethereal
than the Frühlingsplätzchen, with less cutting acid and less
subtlety, but still very pure and showing slate minerality. Here, too,
I'd look to 3-5 years' cellaring. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 29 05.
SCHÄFER-FRÖHLICH 2004 RIESLING HALBTROCKEN
88/A points FWR
The QbA halbtrocken has Nahe crystaline purity with a medium-weight body
that shows roundness but little sweetness from the residual sugar, a crisp
attack from the acidity, and incipient quince fruit. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 19 05
SCHÄFER-FRÖHLICH 2004 RIESLING KABINETT
91/A points FWR
The Riesling Kabinett (from the Schloss Bockelheimer Felsenberg vineyard)
is pure, crystalline, and elegant with slightly citrus fruit - a model
Nahe Kabinett. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 16 05
SCHÄFER-FRÖHLICH 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE
MONZINGER HALENBERG 92/A points FWR
The Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Spätlese displays white flower and
melon aromas, followed in the mouth by decent acidity, but a great blast
of sweetness (those who are fans of the 2001 vintage in general will prefer
this more than I, those who thought 2002s in general had a better sugar/acid
balance will join my view) with cassis and melon flavors and a medium-weight,
juicy body. I'd leave this in the cellar 5 years or so to mature. Last
digits of A.P. Nr.:14 05.
SCHÄFER-FRÖHLICH 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE
(AP 17)BOCKENAUER FELSENECK 92/A points FWR
The first Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese is pure and off-dry
with long citric flavors to go with the racy body. Last dig-its of A.P.
Nr.: 17 05.
SCHÄFER-FRÖHLICH 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE
(AP 18) BOCKENAUER FELSENECK 93(+)/A points
FWR
The second Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Spätlese shows primary apple
and melon aromas, a bit more sweetness than the preceding wine, and a
fascinating combination of ginger and lime flavors, all underscored by
lively acidity and in a medium-weight body with just a touch of juiciness.
This should be wonderful in 8-10 years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 18 05.
SCHÄFER-FRÖHLICH 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE
BOCKENAUER FELSENECK 95+/A points FWR
The Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Auslese is sweeter but with such tremendous
precision, purity, and balance that I am left in awe. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 15 05
SCHÄFER-FRÖHLICH 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE
(GOLD CAP) (AP 34)BOCKENAUER FELSENECK 94(+)/A
points FWR
The first Bockenauer Felseneck Gold Cap Riesling Auslese shows strong
botrytis with plenty of pineapple in the nose and sau-téed apples
on the palate. The wine is sweet and rather light in weight, needing several
years to mature. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 34 05.
SCHÄFER-FRÖHLICH 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE
(GOLD CAP) (AP 33) BOCKENAUER FELSENECK 96(+)/A
points FWR
The second Bockenauer Felseneck Gold Cap Riesling Auslese is considerably
heavier and virtually a BA in character. The wine is shot with botrytis
and shows greater weight, depth, and concentration than the preceding
wine. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 33 05
SCHÄFER-FRÖHLICH 2004 RIESLING EISWEIN
BOCKENAUER FELSENECK 95/A- points FWR
Schäfer-Fröhlich's Bockenauer Felseneck Eiswein is smooth on
the palate with pineapple essence-of-Riesling fruit, but lacks the great
intensity of the finest of Eiswein. Very good for early drinking. Last
digits of A.P. Nr.: 31 05
SCHÄFER-FRÖHLICH 2004 RIESLING EISWEIN
(GOLD CAP) BOCKENAUER FELSENECK 97/A points
FWR
The Bockenauer Fleseneck Gold Cap Eiswein is a richer, more intense version
of the previous wine. Just a very small sample will more than satisfy
for dessert. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 32 05.
Franz Künstler
Rheingau region
KÜNSTLER 2004 RIESLING TROCKEN (DRY) (HOCHHEIMER)
STIELWEG ALTE REBEN 92(+)/A points FWR
The Stielweg trocken "alte Reben"
(alte Reben means old vines) is quite stony but elegant with minerality
on the palate. Much more elegant than the two following wines. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 014 05
KÜNSTLER 2004 RIESLING TROCKEN (DRY) (HOCHHEIMER)
HÖLLE 92(+)/A points FWR
Kunstler chooses not to participate in the Grosses Gewächs program,
but if he did, the Hölle trocken would be entitled to that designation.
The wine displays richness plus the acidity of the vintage and incipient
peach and apricot fruit, along with a velvet tex-ture. Give this wine
3-4 years to round out, but it is impressive. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
025 05
KÜNSTLER 2004 RIESLING TROCKEN (DRY) (HOCHHEIMER)
KIRCHENSTÜCK 94/A points FWR
The Kirchenstück trocken, too, would be entitled to Grosses Gewächs
status had Künstler sought it. The wine has a creamy, rich texture
with the earthy, slightly mineral aromas and flavors typical of this great
vineyard and the balance and presence of a great wine. It is a wine to
serve at a serious meal alongside a topflight white Burgundy to elucidate
the greatness and differences of both types of wine. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 024 05
KÜNSTLER 2004 RIESLING HALBTROCKEN 88/A
points FWR
Künstler's QbA halbtrocken Riesling is a textbook Hoch, with red
and yellow plum aromas and flavors, a dense texture, and good supporting
acidity. Just the slightest hint of sweetness. A great wine for meals
over the next 10-15 years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 006 05
KÜNSTLER 2004 RIESLING 88/A
points FWR
The Riesling shows spicy yellow and red plum and quince fruit and is medium
full with an oily texture but excellent balancing acid-ity to keep the
wine fresh. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 026 05
KÜNSTLER 2004 RIESLING KABINETT (HOCHHEIMER)
REICHESTAL 89/A- points FWR
The Hochheimer Reichestal Riesling Kabinett is loaded with peach and yellow
plum fruit in a rich, yet lively body, and with a fair degree of sweetness.
This is sensual wine. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 03 05.
KÜNSTLER 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE (HOCHHEIMER)
KIRCHENSTÜCK 92/A points FWR
Kunstler's Hochheimer Krichenstück Riesling Spätlese shows great
finesse, and relatively sweetness, together with elegance and pure peach
and plum fruit. Because of the synthetic cork, I'd drink over the next
2-3 years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 001 05.
Wegeler Rheingau region
WEGELER (RHEINGAU) 2004 RIESLING (DRY) WINKEL JESUITENGARTEN
(ERSTES GEWÄCHS) 93/A points FWR
The Winkel Jesuitengarten is a prime example of how impressive the German
dry wines can be - ripe yellow and red plum fruit flavors and some minerality,
with good, but not overpowering, acidity, and fine length.
WEGELER (RHEINGAU) 2004 RIESLING (DRY) RÜDESHEIMER
BERG SCHLOSSBERG
(ERSTES GEWÄCHS) 93/A points FWR
The Rüdeheimer Berg Schlossberg is the stylistic opposite by virtue
of its red slate soils. Firm and mineral in both nose and mouth with a
touch of spiciness and peach to go with the slate, and with plenty of
acidity and length, this is a really fine wine, but one that ideally needs
4-5 more years in the bottle.
WEGELER (RHEINGAU) 2004 HALBTROCKEN 89/A
points FWR
The halbtrocken shows a fair amount of slate minerality, some roundness
on the texture and some bite on the finish. This should be an excellent
bargain. The cork is synthetic, so I would drink the wine over the next
2-3 years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 0305
WEGELER (RHEINGAU) 2004 RIESLING KABINETT RÜDESHEIMER
BERG SCHLOSSBERG 91/A points FWR
The Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett (in some markets,
this may be sold simply as Kabinett, but the AP num-ber will be the same)
is stony from the slate in the vineyards but also has mineral white peach
fruit and a fair degree of sweetness. It is uncommonly pretty and bears
strong resemblance to a Spätlese. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 09 05.
WEGELER (RHEINGAU) 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE RÜDESHEIMER
BERG ROTTLAND 92+/A points FWR
The Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Spätlese is still closed
but with great stuffing, underlying acidity and promise for those willing
to hold it for a few years. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11 05
WEGELER (RHEINGAU) 2004 GEISENHEIMER ROTHENBERG RIESLING
AUSLESE 94+/A points FWR
Botrytis, fine acidity, elegance for a Rheingau Auslese mark the Geisenheimer
Rothenberg Riesling Auslese, a lovely wine that will delight its owners
in a decade or so. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 15 05.
WEGELER (RHEINGAU) 2004 RIESLING BEERENAUSLESE GEISENHEIMER
ROTHENBERG 96+/A- points FWR
The Geisenheimer Rothenberg Riesling Beerenauslese is filled with botrytized
apple tart aromas and flavors and a medium-weight body without overwhelming
sweetness. Usually, I recommend waiting a long time on these wines, but
this one can be drunk already. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 19 05
WEGELER (RHEINGAU) 2004 RIESLING EISWEIN RÜDESHEIMER
BERG ROTTLAND 95/A- points FWR
... The Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Eiswein is somewhat atypical but
still quite interesting. The wine is suffused with lemon blossom and curd
aromas and flavors and shows enlivening acidity, but without the intensity
that I associate with the very finest of Eisweine. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 1605.
Robert Weil Rheingau region
This estate is producing some of the greatest wines of Germany in all
styles. Prices are steep, but the quality by and large is com-mensurate
with the price. One starts with great vineyards, of course, but it continues
through meticulous selection at all stages, which means here that there
can be multiple bottlings of a given wine, as shown by the various ones
that I have tried.
ROBERT WEIL 2004 RIESLING DRY 92/A+
points FWR
The QbA trocken is pure, deep, and dry with mineral white plum fruit and
a rich body (11.5% stated alcohol). Most other produc-ers would be happy
to have this as their Erstes Gewächs selection. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 022 05
ROBERT WEIL 2004 RIESLING (DRY) (KIEDRICH) GRÄFENBERG
(ERSTES GEWÄCHS) (AP 045) 96/ A+ points
FWR
I tasted two different bottlings of the Gräfenberg Erstes Gewächs.
The first is incredibly penetrating, stony, complex, dense, fine, and
tight. As noble a dry Riesling as you could want. My guess is that this
wine will peak in 8-10 years, but it is amazing now. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 045 05.
ROBERT WEIL 2004 RIESLING (DRY) (KIEDRICH) GRÄFENBERG
(ERSTES GEWÄCHS) (AP 053) 95/A+ points
FWR
The second is elegant, stony and pure, one of the great dry Rieslings
of this new century, taking second place only by a hair, to its sibling.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 053 05
ROBERT WEIL 2004 RIESLING KABINETT HALBTROCKEN
91/A points FWR
The Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken shows excellent electricity and minerality
with red and yellow plum fruit. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 030 05
ROBERT WEIL 2004 RIESLING KABINETT 90(+)/A
points FWR
The Kabinett is crisp with a nice prickly acidity, good depth and roundness
with a slightly chewy texture, and crystalline citrus fruit that needs
a little time to develop further. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 034 05.
ROBERT WEIL 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE (AP
004) 88/B points FWR
The first Spätlese shows yellow plum fruit and is flashy, but lacks
the crispness and outstanding concentration of the earlier wines. Last
digits of A.P. Nr.: 004 05.
ROBERT WEIL 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE (AP
036) 89/B points FWR
The second Spätlese is medium sweet with slightly spiced yellow plum
fruit, quite similar to the first. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 036 05.
ROBERT WEIL 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE (AP 005)
KIEDRICH GRÄFENBERG 92+/A points FWR
The first Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese is very nervy
with well-defined spicy yellow plum fruit and needs some aging to show
its full potential. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 005 05
ROBERT WEIL 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE (AP 006)
KIEDRICH GRÄFENBERG 93/A points FWR
The second Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese is succulent
with sweet yellow plum fruit that is very pure and the wine is quite sweet.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 006 05
ROBERT WEIL 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE (AP 007) KIEDRICH
GRÄFENBERG 94(+)/A points FWR
The first Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Auslese shows very intense
red plum fruit that is very long, but still quite young and in need of
further aging. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 007 05
ROBERT WEIL 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE (AP 008) KIEDRICH
GRÄFENBERG 95/A points FWR
The second Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Auslese is pure, deep, sweet,
and long - no botrytis apparent. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 008 05.
ROBERT WEIL 2004 RIESLING BEERENAUSLESE KIEDRICH
GRÄFENBERG 95/B+ points FWR
If Weil didn't have an incredible string of BAs to continue, I wonder
if it would have declared this wine. The Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling
Beerenauslese is not bad as a BA, but not up to the standards that Weil
has performed at in the past. The wine has bo-trytis, caramel aromas and
is lighter and shows less botrytis and richness on the palate than previous
vintages. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 010 05.
ROBERT WEIL 2004 RIESLING TROCKENBEERENAUSLESE KIEDRICH
GRÄFENBERG 96/B+ points FWR
My thoughts are similar with the Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese.
It is decent TBA, but not of the same standard that Weil has presented
in the past. Nevertheless, there is botrytis here medium-weight, and a
fair degree of sweetness. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 014 05
ROBERT WEIL 2004 RIESLING EISWEIN KIEDRICH GRÄFENBERG
94/B+ points FWR
Last, the Kiedrich Gräfenberg Eiswein is closer to the typical product
with sharp acidity playing against extreme sweetness, but still without
the extract and incisiveness that better vintages can offer. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 012 05.
Gunderloch Rheinhessen
region
This estate, one of Germany’s finest, just doesn’t miss.
GUNDERLOCH 2004 DRY RIESLING 90/A
pts FWR
A superb trocken, a wine that is succulent but dry with ripe fruit, length,
and richness. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 03 05.
GUNDERLOCH 2004 “JEAN BAPTISTE” RIESLING
KABINETT 91/A
pts FWR
The Jean-Baptiste Kabinett displays excellent vanilla and yellow plum
flavors and aromas and shows some minerality, a juicy texture, and a raciness
that I’ve not known in previous vintages. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
11 05.
GUNDERLOCH 2004 "DIVA" RIESLING SPÄTLESE
90/B+ pts FWR
Gunderloch’s Diva Spätlese is opulent with correct yellow and
red plum fruit aromas and flavors but with sufficient acidity to make
the wine interesting both on its own and at table. It may not have the
complexity of the Nackenheim Rothenberg, but this is gulpably delicious.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 23 05.
GUNDERLOCH 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE NACKENHEIM
ROTHENBERG 92+/A pts
FWR
The Nackenheim Rothenberg Spätlese is pure with a notable amount
of sweetness and yellow plum aromas and flavors. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
06 05.
GUNDERLOCH 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE NACKENHEIM ROTHENBERG
94(+)/A pts FWR
The Nackenheim Rothenberg Auslese is from 100% botrytized grapes. It is
dense and pure with the botrytis showing, and also sweetness and acidity
to make it a very good wine for food. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 07-05.
GUNDERLOCH 2004 RIESLING GOLD KAPSULE AUSLESE NACKENHEIM
ROTHENBERG 94+/A pts
FWR
The Nackenheim Rothenberg Gold Cap Auslese ultimately will be an even
greater Auslese with its fleshy texture and strong, pure botrytis-infused
peach aromas and flavors. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 16/05.
Reichsrat von Buhl Pfalz
region
VON BUHL 2004 SPÄTLESE TROCKEN 91/A-
VON BUHL 2004 SPÄTLESE TROCKEN FORSTER UNGEHEUER 92(+)/A
VON BUHL 2004 RIESLING (SPÄTLESE TROCKEN) RUPPERTSBERGER REITERPFAD
GG 93/A
VON BUHL 2004 (SPÄTLESE TROCKEN) GG FORST KIRCHENSTÜCK 93(+)/A
VON BUHL 2004 “JAZZ” RIESLING MEDIUM-DRY 86/B
VON BUHL 2004 “ARMAND” RIESLING KABINETT 90(+)/A
VON BUHL 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE FORST JESUITENGARTEN 93/A
VON BUHL 2004 RIESLING AUSLESE FORSTER UNGEHEUER 93/A-
VON BUHL 2004 RIESLANER AUSLESE FORSTER STIFT 93/A
VON BUHL 2004 SCHEUREBE AUSLESE RUPPERTSBERGER REITERPFAD 96/A+
Hans-Günter Schwarz, who made such great wines at Müller-Catoir
for so long, has signed on as a full-time consultant at this great estate,
and his vineyard manager has moved here, too. The Spätlese trocken
is pure with beautiful Riesling minerality a long, lovely delineation,
and outstanding acidity. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 15 05. The Forster Ungeheuer
Spätlese trocken is a good place to
start if you’ve not previously been able to understand German dry
wines. The wine is marked by finesse in its lemon-lime fruit and persistent
but low-key acidity. Now-2014. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 22 05. Von Buhl’s
Grosses Gewächs Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad is typically light and
floral with a fine spiced ginger and lime blossom nose. In the mouth,
the wine is medium-weight with a fine acidity
that is zippy and enlivens the lime flavors. Now-2015. Last digits of
A.P. Nr.: 44 05. Many, myself included, consider Kirchenstück to
be the greatest vineyard in the Pfalz. Von Buhl’s Forst Kirchentück
Grosses Gewäxhs demonstrates why. This wine is tightly wound and
ideally needs some aging to show at its best. Still, one can perceive
depth, elegance, power, and complexity with its pure,
very primary citric fruit. Although labeled “Spätlese trocken”
on the back label, there is in fact some residual sugar and this wine
has a sugar feel somewhere between a halbtrocken and a Kabinett (although
acidity can play tricks with the perceived amount of residual sugar).
2012-2025. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 39 05. The halbtrocken “Maria
Schneider Jazz” is pleasant with plum and lemon
blossom aromas and flavors and medium-weight and depth, plus just a little
sweetness on the finish. A good food wine for the next 3-5 years. Last
digits of A.P. Nr.: 09 05. Von Buhl’s Kabinett “Armand”
is reliably good. This vintage has red and yellow plum fruit – almost
more Rheingau than Pfalz – with fine balance, making for a bargain
of a wine. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12 05. The Forster Jesuitengarten
Spätlese is ripe and round with some melon fruit, richness, but also
a zingy raciness. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:10 05. In typical von Buhl style,
the Forster Ungeheuer Auslese is light and elegant. There are just the
slightest hints of botrytis in the nose and mouth, but this is a lighter
wine with depth and golden fruit that is drinkable as early as now(!),
and with food as it is not overly sweet. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 11 05.
The Forster Stift Rieslaner Auslese is pure with lovely acidity to keep
it lively and lime blossom aromas and flavors. The acidity is such that
this wine is not especially sweet and, at least as a young wine, is best
served as an aperitif or with food. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 19 05. The
Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Scheurebe Auslese is a magnificent wine with
plenty of spicy botrytis in the nose and mouth supported by superb enlivening
acidity. It is hard to resist now, but should be even greater in 8-12
years and for long thereafter. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 18 05.
Pfeffingen Pfalz
region
PFEFFINGEN 2004 TROCKEN 87/A-
PFEFFINGEN 2004 KABINETT HALBTROCKEN “PFEFFO” 91/A
PFEFFINGEN 2004 (UNGSTEINER) HERRENBERG SPÄTLESE (AP 06) 91/A-
PFEFFINGEN 2004 (UNGSTEINER) HERRENBERG SPÄTLESE (AP 17) 91/A-
PFEFFINGEN 2004 SCHEUREBE SPÄTLESE UNGSTEINER HERRENBERG91/A
PFEFFINGEN 2004 GEWÜRZTRAMINER SPÄTLESE UNGSTEINER NUSSRIEGEL
(AP 13 05) 92/A
PFEFFINGEN 2004 RIESLING GOLD KAPSULE AUSLESE UNGSTEINER HERRENBERG 95/A
PFEFFINGEN 2004 RIESLING GOLD KAPSULE BEERENAUSLESE UNGSTEINER HERRENBERG
97/A-
PFEFFINGEN 2004 SCHEUREBE GOLD KAPSULE BEERENAUSLESE UNGSTEINER HERRENBERG
98/A
PFEFFINGEN 2004 SCHEUREBE GOLD KAPSULE TROCKENBEERENAUSLESE UNGSTEINER
HERRENBERG 96(+?)/A
This is an outstanding collection of wines from Pfeffingen, from beginning
to end, topped off by notable sweet wines. Pfeffingen’s trocken shows
attractive stony minerality in both nose and mouth. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 08 05. Over the years, I’ve opened many bottles of diverse vintages
of the Kabinett halbtrocken and have always been pleasantly surprised
at the outstanding quality and
how well the wines age. It is a bargain year in and year out. The wine
is relatively ripe but still with minerality to its apricot fruit and
with good nervosity. It tastes virtually dry but with roundness from the
residual sugar. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 10 04. I tasted two different
Ungsteiner Herrenberg Spätlese. The first shows plenty of ripeness
to the fruit, but not quite the acidity of the other
wines here. I’d opt for earlier drinking. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
6 05. The second is more closed, not so dominated by ripeness and in fact
recalls the wines here of the early 1990s that seemed Mosel-influenced,
albeit with a touch of Pfalz earthiness that comes out with aeration.
I’d give this wine 2-4 years, at least, before drinking it. Last
digits of A.P. Nr.: 17 05. The Ungsteiner Herrenberg
Scheurebe Spätlese is medium sweet with typical rose aromas and flavors,
a lovely expression of a grape that is too often overlooked. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 12 05. I’m not generally a Gewürztraminer fan.
I found two different lots of the Ungsteiner Nussriegel Gewürztraminer
to be quite different. One is rich and spicy with a velvet texture, but
to my taste lacks vivacity of the best wines. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
10 05. The other comes across as medium dry on the palate with spiced
roses in the nose and mouth and fine supporting acidity and is much more
refreshing. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 13 05. The Ungsteiner Herrenberg
Gold Cap Auslese shows spicy botrytis in the nose, followed by a creamy
texture in the mouth with succulence, depth, and balancing acidity to
the spicy fruit. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 18 05. The Ungsteiner Herrenberg
Gold Cap Beerenauslese shows plenty of botrytis and acidity, making for
a classic BA that has liveliness and is not too heavy. You can hold this
for ages, but there is no reason not to enjoy it now, either. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.:19 05. Ungsteiner Herrenberg Scheurebe Gold Cap Beerenauslese
is sensational as a dessert wine. With depth, concentration, botrytis,
lively acidity and laced in nose and mouth with cinnamon spice to the
Scheurebe roses, the wine is pure, pleasure from a direction unexpected
to those unfamiliar with Scheurebe. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
20 05. So what does that leave for the Ungsteiner Herrenberg Scheurebe
Gold Cap Trockenbeerenauslese? More sweetness and more botrytis here giving
honey and ginger flavors and aromas, but to my taste, at the slight expense
of liveliness and expressiveness.
Nonetheless, a great wine. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 21 05.
Ökonomierat Rebholz
Pfalz region
REBHOLZ
2004 VON BUNTSANDTSTEIN SPATLESE TROCKEN 91(+?)/A-
2004 PINOT BLANC SPATLESE TROCKEN 90/A-
2004 WEISSER BURGUNDER (SPATLESE TROCKEN) (SIEBELDINGEN) IM SONNENSCHEIN
GG 92/A
2003 ¥Ð¥É¥Í¥Ï SPATLESE TROCKEN
87/B
2004 RIESLING (SPATLESE TROCKEN) (SIEBELDINGER) IM SONNENSCHEIN GG 93/A
2004 RIESLING (SPATLESE TROCKEN) (BIRKWEILER) KASTANIENBUSCH GG 93(+)/A
2004 GEWURZTRAMINER SPATLESE 87/B
2004 GEWURZTRAMINER SPATLESE ALBERSWEILER LATT 89/B+
Hans-Jorg Rebholz was Hans-Gunter Schwarz's first intern at Muller-Catoir,
and now that Schwarz is in retirement, one can plausibly posit that this
is the top estate in the Pfalz, at least for dry wines. Even if other
wines score as highly, the depth, power, and purity of these wines sets
them apart stylistically. The Buntsandstein Spatlese trocken is very primary
and extremely mineral and salty . it needs more time, but it may eventually
turn out to be great. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 007 05. The Pinot Blanc
Spatlese trocken is a marvelous job with a grape that too often is overdone
with too much alcohol and/or oak in Germany. The wine shows no wood and
plenty of acidity, giving it a firmness and electricity that is rare for
the grape. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 16 05. The Im Sonnenschein Weisser
Burgunder Grosses Gewachs has hazelnuts and a slight bit of lemon blossom
in the nose. On the palate, first notable is the prickly acidity that
makes the wine more lively than most Pinot Blancs (Weisser Burgunder is
German for Pinot Blanc). There are no oak flavors, and instead the usually
neutral Pinot Blanc is restrained and crystalline. I have rarely seen
Pinot Blanc with this level of quality. It is an excellent wine for food
such as fish, fowl, and poultry. I have no experience with the aging
capacity here and would tend to drink it therefore in the next couple
of years. The 2003 ¥Ð¥Í¥Ï Spatlese trocken
is a white wine made from Pinot Noir, as those who can cipher the Cyrillic
alphabet can probably surmise for themselves. The wine is woody and buttery
with richness in the body supported by excellent acidity giving firmness.
In the end, this reminds me not of Burgundy, but
of a California producer trying to imitate Burgundy (of which I have much
experience). Drink in the next year or two. From Rebholz, I have had far
and away the most amazing Chardonnay from Germany and possibly the best
Pinot Noir from Germany, but this wine is nothing more than an oddity.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 025 04. These two Grosses Gewachs Rieslings support
Rebholz¡'s reputation as a terroirist. The Siebeldinger Im Sonnenschein
Spatlese trocken is from white chalk, gravel, and loess soils. The
wine is citric and nervy with peach and apple flavors, depth, power, and
finesse. It took great patience to harvest this wine (25% in early November,
75% in late November), and a very strict selection for the Grosses Gewachs,
but the effort was worth it, especially if you are willing to hold this
wine 5-8 years. From Rebholz¡¯s top site, the Birkweiler Kastanienbusch
Spatlese trocken is nervy, rich, and citric with orange peel aromas and
flavors with great penetration, crystallinity, and finesse. Picking for
this wine was cluster by cluster, Auslese style. The dominant soils here
are red slate and red loess. Wait 3-7 years before beginning this wine
ideally, but it is tremendously attractive now. The subtlety, noble restraint,
purity, and balance make the Gewurztraminer Spatlese a fine drink. No
heaviness or aggressiveness, just spiced rose petals, but there is a tiny
bit of pomade . the excessively perfumed quality that one sometimes finds
in Gewurztraminer. There is enough sweetness to make the wine excellent
for food that needs a rounder wine and for spicy food, but you¡¯d
not think of it as sweet without really concentrating. Drink now-2011.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 014 05. The Albertsweiler Latt Gewurztraminer
Spatlese is denser and heavier and more mineral and earthy, but it too
does not give the impression of sweetness. This wine is more backward
and probably is best not drunk until 2008 or 2009. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 022/05.
Hans Wirsching Franken
region
WIRSCHING 2004 SILVANER TROCKEN 86/A-
WIRSCHING 2004 RIESLING KABINETT TROCKEN IPHÖFER JULIUS-ECHTER-BERG89/A-
WIRSCHING 2004 RIESLING SPÄTLESE TROCKEN IPHÖFER JULIUS-ECHTER-BERG
92(+)/A
WIRSCHING 2004 RIESLING GG IPHÖFER JULIUS-ECHTER-BERG † 91/A-
WIRSCHING 2004 SCHEUREBE SPÄTLESE TROCKEN IPHÖFER JULIUS-ECHTER-BERG
89(+)/B+
WIRSCHING 2004 SILVANER SPÄTLESE TROCKEN IPHÖFER JULIUS-ECHTER-BERG90(+)/A-
WIRSCHING 2004 GEWÜRZTRAMINER SPÄTLESE TROCKEN IPHÖFER
KALB 90/A-
WIRSCHING 2004 GEWÜRZTRAMINER GG IPHÖFER JULIUS-ECHTER-BERG
† 90/B+
WIRSCHING 2004 SCHEUREBE SPÄTLESE IPHÖFER JULIUS-ECHTER-BERG
91(+)/A
WIRSCHING 2004 RIESLING BA IPHÖFER JULIUS-ECHTER-BERG 96/A
Wirsching’s Silvaner trocken is young and mineral with good grip
and some citrus elements. It is a good starter wine for those who need
convincing of the quality that a simple Sylvaner can obtain. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 032 05. The Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg Kabinett trocken
has a lovely steeliness to it with minerality throughout. Try to drink
it cool – when it warms up, there is a touch
of juiciness/sweetness that works against the minerality. Also drink it
rather young as the structure seems a touch delicate. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 018-05. Wirsching’s Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg Spätlese
trocken is a beautiful representation of the glories of dry Riesling from
this magnificent site. The wine is stony and mineral with superb bite
and nervosity bound by great balance and a silky texture. It may age very
well, but is so delicious now that I can’t imagine having it around
for more than a few years. The Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg Scheurebe
Spätlese trocken is floral in the nose, especially the roses that
are typical of Scheurebe, and shows red cherry flavors and good length.
This is more restrained than most Scheurebe and should provide excellent
drinking with a little more time in the bottle. The Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg
Silvaner Spätlese trocken is a fat, rich, juicy wine with mineral
aromas and flavors, very different from, for example, the tightly-wound
Sylvaners of Fürst, but most enjoyable and good for rustic foods.
Wirsching’s Iphöfer Kalb Gewürztraminer Spätlese trocken
is mineral and relatively restrained with richness but no flabbiness in
the mouth and decent length. The wine improves over several days, a good
omen for ageworthiness. Drink it either way, on its own or with a wide
variety of foods. It is interesting to compare the Julius-Echter-Berg
Grosses Gewächs with the
Spätlese trocken version. This is a different style of wine, richer
and smoother, with a touch of residual sugar, really putting it in the
halbtrocken style. In this case, more is not necessarily better, and I
prefer the less luxurious, more transparent Spätlese trocken. The
Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg Scheurebe Spätlese is one of the
best that I know from Wirsching and a classic of its type: fruity apple
and pear aromas and flavors, fairly rich in the mouth, with excellent
acidity, and only a slight bit of sweetness showing. This is a great wine
for a large range of foods that demand good acidity. Wirshcing’s
Julius-Echter-Berg Beerenauslese is rich and dense with crystalline clarity,
Franken earth, a rich texture, lively acidity, and a long finish.
Rudolf Fürst Franken
region
FÜRST 2004 MÜLLER-THURGAU PUR MINERAL 85+/B+
FÜRST 2004 RIESLING PUR MINERAL 91/A+
FÜRST 2004 PINOT BLANC PUR MINERAL 87/A
FÜRST 2004 SILVANER PUR MINERAL 92/A+
FÜRST 2004 BUNTSANDSTEIN-TERRASSEN ALTER SATZ VON RIESLING &
SILVANER TROCKEN 87/A
FÜRST 2004 RIESLING KABINETT TROCKEN (BÜRGSTÄDTER) CENTGRAFENBERG91/A
FÜRST 2004 SILVANER KABINETT TROCKEN (BÜRGSTÄDTER) CENTGRAFENBERG
92/A
FÜRST 2004 SPÄTLESE TROCKEN (BÜRGSTÄDTER) CENTGRAFENBERG90/B+
FÜRST 2003 SPÄTBURGUNDER (BÜRGSTÄDTER) CENTGRAFENBERG
91/A
Fürst has a line of dry QbA wines labeled “pur mineral.”
The Müller-Thurgau “pur mineral” is biting and crisp and
a touch floral and herbaceous (in the good sense). An attractive wine
for simple dining. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 002 05. The Riesling “pur
mineral” is an astonishingly good wine: lime blossom aromas and flavors
with slight vanilla hints and a crisp, beautifully-balanced body, no coarseness
here. Try this with Alsatian and Austrian Rieslings, and I think you’ll
be in for a surprise. Now-2010+. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 004-05. The
Pinot Blanc “pur mineral” is crisp, mineral, and biting with
a sleek texture. No wood, no malolactic fermentation here. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 005 05. Fürst’s Silvaner “pur mineral”
is simply fabulous with stony, mineral elements in the nose, somewhat
of a silky texture, and great complexity with almond and mineral flavors.
One rarely encounters a Silvaner with such finesse. The wine is lovely
for drinking now, but the complexity suggests it should age well for several
years, at least. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 003-05. The Buntsandstein-Terassen
alter Satz von Riesling & Silvaner is a mixture of old vine Riesling
and Sylvaner from terraced slopes on colored sandstone. The wine is dry,
mineral, and slightly oily, but with out the nervosity and precision of
the best vintages. Good for meals. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 006-05. The
Centgrafenberg Kabinett trocken is a leaner, more closed
wine than the “pur mineral” for the moment (it is 11.5% stated
alcohol vs. 12.0% for the “pur mineral”), but it is deep, pure,
stony, and mineral, and should provide superb drinking 2008-2015. Last
digits of A.P. Nr.: 009-05. Fürst’s Centgrafenberg Silvaner
Kabinett trocken has mineral and white flower aromas and is chalky and
mineral on the palate with a firm, silky, oily texture, and power
but also elegance. Drink over the next 6-8 years. Last digits of A.P.
Nr.: 007-05. The Centgrafenberg Spätlese trocken is a richer, riper
(12.5% stated alcohol), rounder, mineral expression of this terroir, but
not necessarily a better one. I’d drink 2008-2012. Last digits of
A.P. Nr.: 010-05. In very small quantities in proportion to the total
produced, there are Pinot Noirs (Spätburgunder) in Germany
that are of interest to the most die-hard Burgundy fanatic. Fürst’s
2003 Spätburgunder Centgrafenberg is one of them. The spicy perfumed
red fruits in the nose remind me of a Nuits-St-Georges from the Côte
de Vosne (the northern slope of Nuits-St-Georges) and in the mouth, the
wine is elegant with licorice and dark fruits. Surprisingly, this wine
defies the normal rules and is
better served closer to room temperature than to cellar temperature. Last
digits of A.P. Nr.: 024 04.
Graf Adelmann
Württemberg region
2003 PINOT GRIS DRY 85/B+
2003 LEMBERGER DRY 84/B
2001 TROCKEN CUVÉE VIGNETTE 87/A
Adelmann’s 2003 Pinot Gris dry shows good acidity and a slight sourness
from the lees with a nice acidic attack and mediumweight body. It is simple,
though. 14.0º alcohol, although not noticeable. Last digits of A.P. Nr.:
027 04. The 2003 Lemberger dry resembles a cross between a Loire Cabernet
Franc for its spicy, slightly smoky nose, and a Beaujolais for its ebullient,
forward red fruits. It is medium-weight and has a smooth texture. Ultimately,
a simple wine, but enjoyable for the next few years. Not overly alcoholic.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 006 05. The 2001 cuvée Vignette is a red wine
made from Lemberger, Dornfelder, Acolon, and Cabernet Sauvignon raised
in oak barriques. The wine is ruby colored with some transparency. It
shows some vanillins from the oak in both nose and mouth, is medium weight
with rounded tannins, a somewhat Bordeaux/Cabernet-like mouthfeel, and
features intriguing spicy black fruits. This is a good, loyal wine delicious
for meals requiring a satisfying wine that is not the focus of attention.
Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 023 03. Importer: Cellars Int’l, Carlsbad, CA.
Dr. Heger / Weinhaus Heger
Baden region
DR. HEGER
2004 PINOT GRIS (TROCKEN) 87/A
Heger’s Pinot Gris is crisp and mineral, but with the abundant flesh
that the Pinot Gris grape brings. Crisper and more blunt and
powerful than Pinot Gris that one ordinarily finds southwest from the
Pfalz, in Alsace. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 013 05.
WEINHAUS HEGER
2004 PINOT GRIS (TROCKEN) SONETT 85/B+
2003 PINOT NOIR (TROCKEN) SONETT 85/B+
This is Heger’s négociant label. The Pinot Gris trocken shows
walnuts in the nose and is medium-full in the mouth with some leesiness,
but the wine would appeal to me more if it had some more grip. Last digits
of A.P. Nr.: 19-05. The Pinot Noir is fruity with red currants and a medium-weigh
texture. Nothing to challenge what the best Burgundy producers can do,
but worth noting in the Pinot Noir competitions from the rest of the world,
especially given the moderate price. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 20-05.
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