International Wine Cellar
January/February 2004
Germany's Charming 2002 Vintage
By David Schildknecht
Quick access:
| Gunderloch | Haag | Haart
| Hövel | Karthäuserhof
| Künstler | Lieser
| Pfeffingen | Weil | Schäfer-Fröhlich
| Zilliken |
Zilliken (Saar valley)
I am tempted to declare Hanno Zilliken's the finest results of this vintage.
But was his 2002 really the same vintage as everyone else's? Zilliken
was nearly finished with his harvest - all of which came in at or above
Spätlese must weight - before most of his colleagues had even started.
"We had a fantastic base line of ripeness," he explains, "and
then we just set out to capture as much of the best botrytis as we could
as quickly as we could. I can't recall another harvest where I ate so
many grapes - and enjoyed it." The results display an almost shockingly
high quality and quality/price rapport across a full stylistic range,
culminating in several of the greatest wines in the history of this estate.
Naturally, you couldn't achieve this sort of botrytis if you sprayed against
it, and past mid-October, Zilliken opines, the kind of nobility he captured
in his collection was no longer possible due to the rain.
Zilliken 2002 Riesling ($13)
This blend from Saarburg and Ockfen sites offers an exceptionally ripe
set of flavors for an ostensibly simple Gutsriesling (estate riesling).
Baked apple, cherry and vanilla aromas set the tone for what comes on
the palate. This is generous in fruit flavors and nearly fat in texture
while remaining juicy, thirst-quenching and persistently slate-saturated.
1 star.
Zilliken 2002 Riesling Kabinett, Saarburger Rausch
($20)
Cherry, apple blossom and honeysuckle make for a lovely bouquet. Delicate
on the palate, with mouthwatering, stimulating ripe acids allied to a
silken texture and a wealth of inner-mouth perfume. The finish certainly
floats like a butterfly, even if Zilliken has co-opted that creature to
name another sort of cuvee Potential 2 stars.
Zilliken 2002 Riesling Spätlese, Saarburger Rausch
AP #6 ($23)
Yellow cherries, fresh apricot and flowers in the nose. On the palate,
vividly juicy, vibrant fresh fruit allies itself with both cool blue and
invigoratingly salty slate manifestations. Superbly balanced, this pours
forth cherry and apricot fruit in the finish, followed by an almost compulsive
next sip. If there is a better bottle of riesling anywhere in the world
this year for the price, I haven't found it. 2 stars.
Zilliken 2002 Riesling Auslese, Saarburger Rausch
AP #5 ($45)
White peach, honey and apricot in the nose. Lush and creamy, soft and
caressing on the palate, yet elegant and uplifting, buoyed by abundant
ripe acids. Pure fresh peach and quince jelly on the palate. The ennoblement
of botrytis here is of the utmost subtlety. Shows extraordinary balance
and length, with the acidity running like a low-level electrical current
across the palate, energizing the wine's complex spectrum of flavors.
This was harvested at the point where tiny golden berries just began to
weep and shrivel, Zilliken explains. 2 stars.
Schäfer-Fröhlich
(Nahe region)
Several of my colleagues who also publish vintage reports are wont to
identify their annual "discovery of the year." This year, I
have a compelling candidate for that title, the winery run by veteran
vintners Hans and Karin Frohlich and their increasingly in-charge son,
Tim. Before I could pay my first visit here, I had to consult a map for
the whereabouts of Bockenau. (It's northwest of Schlossbockelheim, northeast
of Medderheim, and miles away from the river Nahe. )The one important
site in town, Felseneck, is a towering mixture of quartzite, red sandstone
and blue slate, similar to the vineyards of Monzingen some five miles
distant, where as it happens the Frohlichs also own property. The altitude
and exposure of Felseneck played a significant role in 2002, in that near
the crest of the hill, breezes dried the fruit, permitting late harvesting
of some extraordinarily concentrated and refined material. The Frohlichs
are not afraid to experiment, as the stylistic diversity of their offerings
testifies. "Each wine must be an original," says Hans Frohlich,
and that they are. With the exception of a few of the most concentrated
dry wines, everything here is vinified and aged in stainless steel, which
they feel is the best medium for conveying and not obscuring the minerality
of their sites. Some of the fruit is whole-cluster pressed, some is lightly
crushed.
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2002 Riesling Halbtrocken
(medium-dry) ($16)
This is all from Bockenauer Felseneck, but for the U.S. market the label
will not indicate that. Grapefruit and blackcurrant aromas suggest scheurebe.
Salty, savory, faintly bitter black fruit character on the palate, with
notes of raspberry distillate and wet stone adding interest. Tim Frohlich
says that the blackcurrant notes come out from parcels with slate. This
is a really strong wine for the price - and one that comes off as only
slightly less clear and precise in its fruit and minerality than the dry
version. 1 star.
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2002 Riesling Kabinett
(Schlossblöckelheimer Felsenberg) ($20)
The Fröhlichs are still expanding and in this instance have acquired
a piece of better-known acreage. (Not that their wines from Bockenau and
Monzingen are wanting in either terroir or taste.) Apparently, the vineyard
designation was left off the label used for the US. Citrus and brown spices
in the nose. Pear nectar and candied lemon on the palate. This offers
refined layers of minerality and tart red fruit accents, both of which
crescendo into a forceful finish. 1 star.
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2002 Riesling Spätlese,
Bockenauer Felseneck AP #10 ($30)
Aromas and flavors here of melon and blackberry jam, with subsequent suggestions
of pineapple and honey and a delicate gesture in the direction of white
raisin. The palate is highly transparent to mineral salts and, while at
present a bit dominated by its sweetness, leads to a finish of lovely
purity and length. This fruit bomb is from a steep, middle portion of
the Felseneck. Once its sweetness settles into the fabric, as I suspect
it will, it may well turn out that I have underrated it. 1 star.
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2002 Riesling Auslese,
Bockenauer Felseneck AP #27 ($70 for 375 ml)
This was harvested over a considerable period from many parcels, and fermentation
was partly ambient. Mango, banana, lemon, pink grapefruit and honey aromas.
Tingling, spicy botrytis notes shimmer across a pure, tropical and honeyed
pool of fruit. With aeration comes more orchard fruit and smoky, citrus
rind pungency, but no coarse or rough manifestations of rot. 1 star.
Gunderloch (Rheinhessen
region)
A significant portion of Fritz and Agnes Hasselbach's crop had achieved
exceptional ripeness and was brought in before the onset of early October
rains. Throughout October, the team here doggedly picked out botrytized
fruit to prevent the spread of rot and was rewarded with outstanding harvest
opportunities again in November, albeit at crop levels significantly below
the estate's already low norm. This year's Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese
were still fermenting at the time of my visit, but there was excitement
aplenty even in their absence.
Also recommended:
Gunderloch 2002 "Diva" Riesling Spätlese
Gunderloch 2002 Riesling Spätlese, Nackenheimer Rotenberg
Gunderloch 2002 Riesling Trocken ($15)
This Gutsriesling unites fruit from the great, steep red stone sites of
Rotenberg, Pettenthal, and Hipping, as well as the high plateau of Engelsberg,
which lies behind Rotenberg. Peach, mango, lemon and floral aromas. Billowy,
elegant and expansive on the palate, with lots of enticing citrus and
pit fruits and inner-mouth florality. Only the sheer drive, intensity
and clarity of flavor here suggest the high (9. 5 grams) acidity, since
texturally the wine is quite lush. Refined, persistent finish of peach,
lemon, smoke and slate. Harvested at 90o Oechsle, this is to all intents
and purposes Spätlese Trocken, and a superb one. Ludicrously good value.
2 stars.
Gunderloch 2002 "Jean-Baptiste" Riesling
Kabinett ($17)
Composed of approximately equal portions Rotenberg and Pettenthal fruit
boasting hugely ripe 95o Oechsle, this Jean Baptiste nevertheless clearly
merits both the stylistic and approbative connotations of the term Kabinett,
displaying delicacy and refinement. Subtle almond cream and lemon custard
flavors with a lovely floral overtone characterize the glossy, buoyant
palate. The acids are integrated so as to deliver drive and refreshment
but not sharpness. The mouthwatering finish is subtly suffused with smoky,
salty minerality and long, fine fruit. 2 stars.
Gunderloch 2002 Riesling Auslese, Nackenheimer Rothenberg
Like the corresponding Spätlese, this shows a lot of primary yeastiness
today. The palate displays pear and apricot nectar with lemon meringue;
sweet, rich and slightly oily. An exceptionally long finish of lemon candy,
apricot jam and marzipan shows great refinement, delicacy and purity,
and sufficiently enlivening and enticing acids. One would hardly guess
that the fruit was entirely botrytized. 2 stars.
Gunderloch 2002 Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule, Nackenheimer
Rothenberg
The nose here suggests toasted almonds and brandied peaches. Esterous,
glossy, oily and thick in the mouth, this displays obvious ennoblement
(and reached 154o Oechsle, absurdly high for Auslese). There is very deep
concentration here, and time should strip away enough of the sweetness
and sheer gloss to permit fuller expression of the wine's flavor potential.
The formidably intense finish juxtaposes (and should ultimately mingle)
caramelized peach and lemon juice. Potential 2 stars.
von Hövel (Saar
valley)
This year, Eberhard von Kunow's collection generated more excitement
than I have experienced here in a number of years. I find the best of
these 2002s far more Saar-typical in their balancing, mouthwatering acidity
and their invigorating minerality than were the high points here in 1997
or 1999. "I'm not a fan of botrytis," declares von Kunow, "I'm
a fan of riesling and of terroir, either of which can have their character
masked by botrytis." True to that notion, this year at least his
Hütte Auslesen were less exciting than his wines from healthy fruit.
And while Oberemmeler Hütte is undeniably von Kunow's top site, his
portion of the Scharzhofberg particularly excelled this year. Von Hövel
rieslings typically gain stature in the bottle, and I would anticipate
that being true of this vintage in particular.
von Hövel 2002 Balduin von Hövel Riesling
($13)
Mint and fresh apple on the nose. Luscious and juicy on the palate, with
a pure fresh fruit expression of apple and white peach. Ideal in its balance
not just of sweetness and acidity, but also of heft and alcoholic weight
versus delicacy and lively refreshment. Glossy in texture, long and savory,
and certainly an exceptional value. 1 star.
von Hövel 2002Riesling Kabinett, Scharzhofberg
AP #8
Pure white peach aroma. Delicate on the palate, with wet slate glimpsed
through transparent fresh fruit. Advanced Spätlese ripeness of completely
healthy fruit is somehow rendered nearly weightless: that is the highly
successful recipe for this outstanding Kabinett. The finishing combination
of white peach, nut oils and wet stone and salt minerality is utterly
ravishing. 2 stars.
von Hövel 2002 Riesling Kabinett, Oberemmeler
Hütte ($19)
Ripe cherry, peach, apple and nut oils in the nose. Fresh and bracing
on entry, with vivid, mouthwatering fruit and fine concentration of slate.
While there are flattering suggestions of creaminess on the palate, this
has an altogether more incisive personality than either of von Kunow's
2002 Scharzhofberger Kabinetts. The finish here is exceptionally long
and classy. Potential 2 stars.
von Hövel 2002 Riesling Kabinett, Scharzhofberg
AP #3 - also recommended.
von Hövel 2002 Riesling Spätlese, Oberemmeler
Hütte ($23)
This is truly an extension of the corresponding Kabinett, perhaps even
juicier and more dripping with orchard fruits, creamier, and also both
saltier and stonier in its expression of minerality. This too is fine
and long, but I especially admire the Kabinett for its balance and poise,
and both wines will probably prove even more interesting in a few years.
"It wasn't so easy this year to decide which of two fuders in the
cellar should be Kabinett and which Spätlese," notes von Kunow. 1
star.
von Hövel 2002 Riesling Spätlese, Scharzhofberger
($23)
Apple blossom and white peach on the nose. In the mouth, this displays
distinct flavor kinship with the better of the two Scharzhofberger Kabinetts,
and also shares that wine's transparency of flavors to mineral and floral
nuances. The Spätlese is creamier and fuller if today a tad less expressive
than the Kabinett #8. "But you have to give it time, of course, and
the Hutte even more so," admonishes von Kunow. Potential 2 stars.
Karthäuserhof (Ruwer
valley)
Christoph Tyrell continues to fine-tune his methodology, among other
things refining the utilization of his new presses. The result is rieslings
with increasing clarity and finesse.
Karthäuserhof 2002 Riesling Halbtrocken Eitelsbacher
Karthäuserhofberg ($17)
Melon, herbs, red berries and smoky minerality in the nose. Full and densely
mineral in the mouth, glossy in texture yet bright and refreshing, and
loaded with melon, grapefruit and red berry flavors. Offers forceful length
and formidable weight, and yet also clarity, refinement and elegance of
flavor. 1 star.
Karthäuserhof 2002 Riesling Spätlese Eitelsbacher
Karthäuserhofberg ($28)
Bright redcurrant and kiwi fruit. On the palate, the enhanced residual
sugar gives this a character of redcurrant jelly shot through with citricity.
Really dynamic interplay of fruit acids and slate here, with lift and
vibrancy. While there is plenty of stuffing and a lovely hint of textural
creaminess, there is still transparency and delicacy, particularly evident
in the refinement and persistence of finishing flavors. 2 stars.
Karthäuserhof 2002 Riesling Auslese Long Gold
Capsule #52
Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg ($80)
This wine bears a prominent "52" on the label designating its
fuder Honey, tea and redcurrant aromas. Firm and bracing on entry, almost
steely, with a huge upwelling of pineapple, honey and lemon. Penetrating
and long. Embryonic but mighty. Potential 2 stars.
Fritz Haag (Mosel valley)
Wilhelm Haag exhibited no hesitation confiding that his 2002 collection
was at least the equal of his superb 2001s, and in truth it is an amazing
tour de force. He had difficulty finding an earlier vintage with which
to compare 2002, but rest assured that this latest vintage will itself
long be a point of reference. I retasted many of Haag's wines in December,
but due to an accident in taping, I am unable to offer detailed tasting
notes on a few wines tasted only in July; for these I have been sketchy
in my description but have still appended my rating. Thanks must go to
James Wright, who was with me in July at the estate, for generously corroborating
some of my recollections.
Fritz Haag 2002 Riesling ($18)
With his recently increased acreage in Brauneberger Juffer, Haag is able
to tap that great site even for his estate riesling. This is appley, faintly
tart, barely off-dry, bright and full of hard-edged slate in the finish.
1 star.
Fritz Haag 2002 Riesling Kabinett, Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr
($23)
Apple blossom, clover, peach, lime, brown spice and wet stone make for
a complex aromatic opening. In the mouth, this displays deep slate minerality,
nut oils and florals. The sweetness is barely noticed for the density
and clarity of the flavors, yet it is supportive. Citrus, slate and flowers
in a long finish. 2 stars.
Fritz Haag 2002 Riesling Kabinett, Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr
($25)
While this is as usual a fatter, richer and more effusively fruity wine
than its Juffer counterpart, the marvel is that this displays no less
minerality. As the vanilla, brown spices and tropical fruit that characterize
the bouquet here come onto the palate, salt, smoke and wet stone essences
of blue slate follow along. Seamless and long. 2 stars.
Fritz Haag 2002 Riesling Spätlese, Brauneberger
Juffer-Sonnenuhr AP#7 (35)
Yeast, baked apple and cinnamon aromas. (Those were the first half dozen
words in my tasting note for the 2001, but so it is again. ) Vibrant citrus,
tart redcurrant, apple and apple skin make for a concentrated and invigoratingly
tart palate presence. Salt and wet stone minerality cling to the gums
like a sap. This doesn't so much finish as it adheres itself. 2 stars.
Fritz Haag 2002 Riesling Auslese, Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr
AP #6 ($47)
Deep pit fruit and nut oil richness are combined here with enlivening
acids and a firm slate sounding board. The texture is subtle and the feel
light even though one senses in the coiled energy of the wine its enormous
extract. The flavors linger with appropriate fineness but also outstanding
persistence. Potential 2 stars.
Fritz Haag 2002 Riesling Auslese Gold Cap, Brauneberger
Juffer-Sonnenuhr AP #9
With subtle botrytis and tiny, shriveled-berry concentration, this displays
the lift and refinement one typically associates with desiccated fruit
on a great slate site. 2 stars.
Fritz Haag 2002 Riesling Auslese Gold Cap, Brauneberger
Juffer-Sonnenuhr AP#12
With lime, melon and honey on the nose, along with smoke and resin, this
betrays significant botrytis. Liqueur-like on the palate and kaleidoscopic
in its compressed melange of tropical fruits, orchard fruits and berries,
this wears its concentration more heavily than many of the best 2002s,
but is scarcely less impressive for that. Plenty of slate informs the
long finish here, and it will be most interesting to chart this Auslese's
evolution when compared with its stablemates. Potential 2 stars.
Reinhold Haart (Mosel
valley)
Theo Haart chalked up another in his long-running streak of outstanding
collections. In addition to the wines canvassed below, Haart produced
by means of extreme selection a mere 200 liters each of Goldtröpfchen
Auslese Gold Capsule and Beerenauslese, which had barely finished fermenting
and which I did not taste.
Reinhold Haart 2002 Riesling Haart to Heart
($16)
Sappy and slightly cidery up front but with a nice counterpoint of leesy
richness and fresh fruit acidity on the palate and a sizzling note of
smoke, salt and wet stone in the finish. Almost dry. Good value, for sure.
Reinhold Haart 2002 Riesling Kabinett, Piesporter
Goldtröpfchen ($22)
Apple, pear and pineapple aromas. Quite sweet on the palate, but delicate
and with a fine interplay of diverse fruits, luscious citricity and deep
nut oil suggestions. Lipsmackingly salty and citric, with smoky and cassis
distillate notes in the finish, where the sweetness is held in check and
the poise, delicacy and transparency of a truly archetypal Mosel riesling
are exhibited in beautiful miniature. 2 stars.
Reinhold Haart 2002 Riesling Spätlese, Piesporter
Goldtröpfchen
Orange liqueur, grapefruit, baking spices and black tea on the nose. Honeyed,
rich and liqueur-like, as was Haart's Spätlese from the Dronhofberger,
but this is more billowing and expansive yet more delicate in touch. Rising
to a sweet concentration, it never sacrifices juicy refreshment, clarity
or slate character. Generous portions of cassis, orange, grapefruit, spice
and honey in the finish. Potential 2 stars.
Reinhold Haart 2002 Riesling Auslese, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen
Baked apple, blackcurrant, pineapple and honey mark the bouquet and palate.
Despite an obviously enormous burden of sweetness, and a buttery, yeasty
character, this manages nevertheless to come off juicy, sleek and elegant.
The finish, too, shows something of a yeasty, fruit-filled pastry character.
It required selective harvest over a considerable period of time to accumulate
enough fruit, largely botrytized, for this Auslese. 1 star.
Reinhold Haart 2002 Riesling Auslese, Wintricher
Ohligsberg
For the second year running, it was not worth harvesting anything "normal"
from the young vines in this great but ill-appreciated site. Rather, this
site was reserved for one decidedly botrytized Auslese. Resin, exotic
fruit and maple syrup aromas. In the mouth, this is enormously sweet,
yet bracingly refreshing and palpably stuffed with slate. The fruit and
slate concentrate is suffused with creamy, honeyed, nutty and yeasty nuances.
Somehow finishes juicy despite tasting like a fruit- and hazelnut-studded,
vanilla- and cocoa-scented cake drizzled with maple syrup. At but not
over the top. 2 stars.
Schloss Lieser (Mosel
valley)
Thomas Haag's 2002 collection was relatively hard to taste in August
on account of its primary yeastiness. I therefore welcomed the opportunity
to return to several of the most promising wines in December. Although
some of the wines were still not easy to assess, it is clear that there
is lots of promise here and, at the upper limits of ripeness, clearly
exceptional quality.
Also recommended: Schloss Lieser 2002 Riesling.
Schloss Lieser 2002 Riesling Kabinett ($18)
Freesia and apple pip aromas. In the mouth, fresh apple with apple skin
and toasted nut accents and a rather earthy, alkaline but fascinating
mineral expression. Long and mineral in the finish, with a refreshing
hint of lime and lime zest. (This wine did not show nearly as well in
August, so I harbor hope for a Niederberg Helden Spätlese AP #5
possessed of excellent concentration and balance, but still marred in
December by a slightly cheesy, fermentative undertone. ) 1 star.
Schloss Lieser 2002 Riesling
Spätlese, Lieserer Niederberg Helden AP #6
Lovely fresh apple and nut oils on the nose here remind me of Graacher
Domprobst. Very rich, with subtly caramelized pit fruit and nut oil flavors,
yet never forsaking its bedrock of blue slate. Quite long and strong;
much more forward than most of the Schloss Lieser 2002s. 1 star.
Schloss Lieser 2002 Riesling
Auslese, Lieserer Niederberg Helden AP #8 ($43)
Pineapple, apricot, vanilla and apple aromas. Luscious, juicy and fruity
on the palate, this possesses subtle honey, wet stone and invigorating
salty mineral expressions, and beautifully balances a large load of residual
sugar. Very refined and long. Potential 2 stars.
Robert Weil (Rheingau
region)
His proclivity for late harvest notwithstanding, Wilhelm Weil managed
to harvest healthy, high-Oechsle fruit even for his dry wines. And as
always, there were impressively rich results here in the botrytized range
of the riesling spectrum, although these were only brought in from November
on ("we simply didn't have any botrytis before that," says Weil) and are
not as numerous as in many recent years.
Also recommended: Robert Weil 2002 Riesling Trocken
(dry).
Robert Weil 2002 Riesling (dry) Charta
This virtually dry riesling from the Kiedricher Wasseros exhibits huge
extract and dense fruit, yet there is plenty of openness to wafting florality,
to juicy, refreshing acidity, and to delicate cress, herb and spice nuances.
Texturally creamy yet insistently bright, the palate here displays salty
and brothy expressions of chalky minerality. "It seems to me to be showing
more its mineral than its fruit side at present," remarks Weil. The merest
hint of sweetness is supportive and integrating, and 11. 5% alcohol strikes
an excellent spot between body and delicacy. Finishes with formidable
complexity and grip. Potential 2 stars.
Robert Weil 2002 Riesling (dry) Erstes Gewächs,
Kiedricher Gräfenberg ($60)
Dense, compact palate dominated by cherry and chalk flavors. The texture
hints at creaminess, but with very bright citricity as yet not entirely
integrated. While 13% alcohol doesn't trip this up in the finish, I find
the balance in the estate's Charta bottling and the Gräfenberg Kabinett
Trocken more conducive to clarity of fruit and mineral. Pronounced finishing
phenolics. Impressive rather than ingratiating. Weil insists it needs
time to hit its stride. 1 star.
Robert Weil 2002 Riesling Kabinett ($26)
Lemon, grapefruit and tangerine aromas. Stridently citric on the palate
at the same time as it is intensely concentrated in the sweet, almost
honeyed side to its pit fruit character. Plenty of invigorating acids
and salty minerality in the finish here. For all of the sheer volume of
flavor it exhibits, this wine manages to retain a lightness of touch and
a dynamic interplay of flavors that can justly be termed Kabinett. In
fact, the interplay between sharpness of acids and sweet orchard fruits
is a bit overactive at this stage, and some time in bottle may bring more
harmony. 1 star.
Robert Weil 2002 Riesling Spätlese
This contrasts radically with the personality of the corresponding Kabinett.
Here we have a very rich, creamy, sedate wine, perhaps a bit lower on
energy, but much higher on harmony. Peach fruit and salty minerality in
a long and satisfying finish. 1 star.
Robert Weil 2002 Riesling Spätlese, Kiedricher
Gräfenberg ($60)
Some of the same attractive texture, generous fruit, and overall harmony
displayed by the non-vineyard-designated Spätlese is also present here,
but the added flavor dimensions go far beyond those exhibited by that
wine, or in fact by any wine on Weil's table today. The citricity here
is subtle, helping to lift and carry poached white peach, honey and flowers
into a long, fine, billowing, nearly endless finish. The expression of
minerals here is almost like chalk dust, folded into a leesy, creamy,
polished palate. Nine hundred fifty cases of this show-stopper were produced,
close to a third of which were earmarked for the U.S. 2 stars.
Robert Weil 2002 Riesling Auslese, Kiedricher Gräfenberg
($120)
Subtle fresh bread, white raisin, lemon candy and honey expressions of
botrytis in the nose, a bit reminiscent of a great 1971. Creamy in texture
on the palate, with honey, butterscotch and lemon candy flavors, but also
a rather nippy phenolic bite and slight sharpness of acids that need to
integrate themselves. Undeniably long finish, with the butterscotch element
dominating the wine's citrus side. 1 star.
Robert Weil 2002 Riesling Eiswein, Kiedricher Gräfenberg
($324; for 375 ml.)
This is a viscous, glyceral lump of wine, almost miraculously leavened
by 14 grams of acidity. Caramel and honey establish the botrytized base
for the flavors, while a brilliant whirl of bright acidity circles about
like a cloud of orbiting electrons. Ultimately, the energy level here
seems more stable than in the Auslese, a wine with a close stylistic kinship
but nowhere near the harmonious length of this Eiswein. 2 stars.
Robert Weil 2002 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, Kiedricher
Gräfenberg ($512; for 375 ml.)
The same high (14 grams) acidity here as in the Eiswein performs the same
levitating trick on the massive, caramelized fruit and lump of butterscotch.
The result is a fineness and elegance, a transparency to perfumed floral
and salty mineral nuances, and a veritable delicacy that are remarkable
for a riesling this ripe. Orange, apricot, vanilla cream, flowers and
chalk inform the long, imposing finish. (Amusingly, the Eiswein comes
off as fatter and heavier than the TBA. There is incidentally no further
auction TBA from the estate this vintage. ) 2 stars.
Franz Künstler
(Rheingau region)
The 2001 and 2000 vintages were not easy ones for Gunther Kunstler, as
he dealt with some difficult weather, personnel problems and much-expanded
acreage. So I am especially happy to report that there is a lot to like
here from 2002. Partly on account of the extremely hot summer weather
- the cellar was being supported by air conditioning when I visited -
Kunstler had elected to hold several wines in tank for later-than-usual
bottling. The pinot noir collection here in 2002, despite being harvested
in late October and thus having had to contend with rain, is once again
quite impressive. I omit detailed notes on these wines to save space and
because my tastings of pinot were of individual lots from cask. The eventual
"two-star" pinot should be an excellent place to start in glimpsing
what results Kunstler has been achieving with Burgundy's great red grape.
Also recommended:
Künstler 2002 Riesling Trocken (dry)
Künstler 2002 Riesling Auslese Trocken (dry), Hochheimer Hölle
AP #23
Künstler 2002 Riesling Halbtrocken (medium-dry)
Künstler 2002 Riesling Kabinett, Hochheimer Hölle
Künstler 2002 Riesling Eiswein, Hochheimer Hölle
Franz Künstler 2002 Riesling Spätlese Trocken,
Hochheimer Stielweg (from tank)
A cyanic apple seed note in the nose proves to be evanescent. With air,
the aromas are of ripe peach and plum, with subtle herbal adjuncts. Rich
fruit is judiciously supported by enough residual sugar to suggest that
the wine is Halbtrocken. There is a lovely alliance here of firm, overtly
chalky character and bright acids with creamy richness of texture. Shows
fascinating length, with finishing notes of pit and citrus fruits, herbs,
spices and mineral broth. Potential 2 stars.
Franz Künstler 2002 Riesling Auslese Trocken,
Hochheimer Hölle AP #18 ($61)
This is from older vines in a better part of Hölle than the dry Auslese
AP #23 - the inner circle of hell ("die Hölle") if you
will, quips Kunstler. Richly scented with pit fruits, citrus and herbed
chicken stock. There are a lively citricity and lift here that carry cherry
and chalk manifestations into a long finish. Rich, deep and fascinatingly
mineral, with brothy, salty and wet stone flavors. 1 star.
Franz Künstler 2002 Riesling Kabinett, Hochheimer
Reichestal ($20)
Salted apricot aroma. Creamy and polished on the palate, with attractive
inner-mouth florality. Quite rich and full, yet with sufficient lift and
liveliness for Kabinett to be an appropriate attribution. Subtle integration
of apricot fruit and chalky minerality in the finish. 1 star.
Franz Künstler 2002 Riesling Spätlese,
Hochheimer Kirchenstück
Peach, pear and lemon oil aromas. Bright and citric but also creamy in
texture and rich in orchard fruits on the palate. Quite expressive and
long. 1 star.
Pfeffingen (Pfalz
region)
Jan Eymael has once again turned in a highly successful collection, having
begun harvesting early, on October 2. "But you had to watch out at
that point because the acids were still high and not all of the fruit
had reached physiological ripeness," he reported. Eymael also attributes
the high extract of his wines to "automatic assimilation of minerals
thanks to so much rain."
Also recommended:
Pfeffingen 2002 "Pfeffo" Riesling Kabinett
medium-dry, (Ungsteiner Herrenberg)
Pfeffingen 2002 Riesling Spätlese, Ungsteiner
Herrenberg
Pfeffingen 2002 Riesling Trocken ($14)
Lemon, pineapple and persimmon, with a woodsmoke accent in the nose. Clear
and juicy on the palate, with a saturation of fruit and smoky, salty minerality
following in a serious finish. A great bargain. 1 star.
Pfeffingen 2002 Riesling (dry) Grosses Gewächs,
Ungsteiner Weilberg ($29)
A most alluring nose of freesia, candied grapefruit rind and honey signify
the advanced but healthy ripeness of tiny riesling berries. The diverse
fruit flavors here range from tropical through citrus to orchard, and
the salty, smoky mineral side displayed by the other dry rieslings here
is now intensified. On the palate this is rich, full and suggestive of
creaminess yet retains a shimmering brightness and betrays no heat. Potential
2 stars.
Pfeffingen 2002 Gewürztraminer Spätlese,
Ungsteiner Nussriegel ($23)
Caraway, black pepper, bacon fat and a hint of rose petal on the nose.
Honeyed in the mouth, with a lovely and, for gewurztraminer, unexpected
cooling, refreshing lime citricity that enlivens and also provides a counterpoint
to the smoke, spice and salts displayed in spades here. Elegant and bright
as well as glossy and quite rich. One tastes the tiny yields as well as
the elevated acidity that characterized Eymael's gewurztraminer this year.
Honey, brown spices, mint and black pepper are featured in the subtle
finish. (The vineyard name Nussriegel may or may not appear on the label
of this wine. ) Potential 2 stars.
Pfeffingen 2002 Scheurebe Spätlese, Ungsteiner
Herrenberg ($23)
Fetching nose of mint, grapefruit, melon and nut oil. Juicy and delicate
on the palate even as it is creamy and rich. Quite sweet, but that fits
the citricity and the note of honey. Eymael was intentionally going for
a more refined and elegant style than in some of his excellent scheurebe
bottlings of other vintages, and he has certainly achieved that goal.
Fresh grapefruit and honey dominate the finish, which reveals the poise,
clarity and balance that can be achieved even with quite high residual
sugar. 2 stars.
Pfeffingen 2002 Scheurebe Beerenauslese, Ungsteiner
Herrenberg ($45; for 375 ml.)
Two passes in late November yielded an Auslese and this Beerenauslese.
Sage, peppermint, pineapple and grapefruit on the nose. Very sweet and
honeyed on the palate, but at the same time suffused with bright citricity.
Grilled pineapple, lightly caramelized pit fruits, fresh grapefruit and
cherry team up for an extravagantly delicious and long finish. 2 stars.
Rudi Wiest Selections
by Cellars International, Inc.
phone 760.566.0499 - info@germanwine.net - fax 760.566.0533
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