International Wine Cellar
Germany '04: A Classic Spätlese Vintage Jan/Feb 06
By Joel B. Payne
Last year's 2003 vintage was highly rated-in fact slightly overrated-before
anyone had done much tasting of the wines, and in many cases it has not
lived up to early expectations. With their higher levels of alcohol, stunted
acidities and overt sweetness, few of the standard Rieslings of '03 have
the graceful elegance, much less the drinkability, that I expect of a
stellar vintage in Germany.
On the other hand, some of the wine press turned up their noses at 2004
before they had seen, much less tasted, the full scope of the vintage,
and their early criticism, also prevalent in wine writing circles in Germany
itself, has turned out to be equally wrong. After the cool, wet summer
there were, it is true, very few winemakers who in late August had high
hopes for the vintage, but those who took the necessary risks were able
to make wines of incredible personality. Fifty years ago a vintage like
2004 would probably have turned out to be mediocre at best, but a new
generation of winemakers has taken vineyard management, the notion of
late harvesting, and the sheer will to make the finest possible wines,
to a height unimaginable only a decade or two ago. Canopy management,
crop thinning, the use of wild yeasts, and a willingness to take risks
have enabled an ever wider number of estates to make great rieslings even
under difficult conditions.
Difficult, though, is too strong a word to describe 2004, for the unexpected
Indian summer from mid-September until well into November is what makes
great vintages, albeit only for those with low yields and late harvests.
The majority of the fruit in 2004 was brought in far too early, and overcropped
at that, because the estate owners were averse to taking risks or saw
little hope that conditions would improve sufficiently to allow them to
make much more of their grapes. Those estates are not portrayed here,
and consumers who taste only the cream of the crop will not understand
how thin, bitter and green many of the lesser wines have turned out to
be.
When all was said and done, must weights for the 2004 riesling kabinetts
and Spätleses were very similar to those of 2003. The difference is merely
that the 2004s ripened during autumn, the 2003s during summer. In short,
that means that almost everyone was able to harvest mature fruit last
year. And thus, even though there were relatively few highlights, the
overall quality in 2003 was somewhat higher. Vintage 2004 was, for reasons
mentioned above, much less regular, but the finest wines are pure, crisp
and unblemished, and for that reason more attractive, lively and classical
in style than those bottled from 2003. And it must be said that the total
number of fine wines at the kabinett and Spätlese level is higher in '04
than ever before.
On the other hand, there was not much botrytis, and winemakers were often
ill-advised to wait too long for ever-higher must weights that never appeared.
There came a point where overripeness set in and tarnished the allure
of the fruit. As Johannes Selbach told me, "the berries turned brown
and lost their bright fruit acidity. "The 21st of December, however,
brought some consolation for those who held out to make eiswein, as freezing
temperatures allowed them to bring in small quantities of these singular
wines.
Thus, if you rate vintages in terms of the amount of auslese, beerenauslese
and trockenbeerenauslese produced, 2004 will not go down in history as
a special year. But if you base your judgment on the number of exceedingly
drinkable kabinetts and Spätleses, you should take a close look at this
vintage. Further, if you are willing to take risks with dry rieslings,
be assured that there has never before been such a wide range of sumptuous
wines made in this style in Germany. As always, though, the vintage was
not only irregular within a given region, it was also irregular from north
to south-with, on the whole, the finest wines being produced in the Rheingau
and on the Nahe. "Although I was never certain what tomorrow was
going to bring," Werner Schonleber assured me, "everything worked
out perfectly. "Johannes Leitz, who with Werner Schonleber and Klaus-Peter
Keller produced one of the finest collections in 2004, saw the vintage
in similar terms: "I don't know what else I could have asked for.
"Farther north, even those producers who harvested late were often
not able to fully ripen their crop. In vineyards farther south, the rieslings
tended to be fleshier but seldom had the same vibrant balance and sheer
minerality that is the hallmark of this vintage at its best. The most
successful 2004s are characterized by ripe, concentrated and yet crisp
green fruits with lipsmacking textures, juicy acidities and crystalline
clarity.
Looking back, it is very clear that 2003 brought forth a number of stunning
wines, but they dominate 2004 only in the categories auslese and above,
especially on the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer, where the earlier vintage can
rightly be compared to 1959, another hot, dry year with little botrytis.
Two thousand four is, in its youth, more comparable to 2002, even to 2001,
which remains for me the benchmark of the new century, or perhaps to 1998.
It makes little sense to compare this vintage to earlier mythic years
like 1990 because there were only a handful of producers back then making
wines at today's level of quality. As 2004 was a classic Spätlese vintage,
however, I have frequently heard comparisons to 1975.
Each year I do a ten-years-after tasting to see how the greatest dry
rieslings, which are so popular in Germany, have matured. This year there
were some 60 wines from the 1995 vintage on the table. As so often before,
estates like Künstler, Dr. Burklin-Wolf and Georg Breuer stole the show.
Besides Heyl zu Hernnsheim and Koehler-Ruprecht there were few other estates
at that time that could compete at this level in this category. Today
there are not 5, but at least 25 that vie for top honors. I believe that
their 2004s will develop much more successfully than many other recent
vintages due to the purity and density of the fruit in '04, the ripe but
spicy acidity, and the fine concentration that the best wines display.
Sure, dry riesling may not be what Americans are drinking today, but
this development is symptomatic of what is happening in Germany as a whole.
A larger number of estates, including some that were previously unknown,
are making finer wines today and that in turn has ratcheted up expectations.
The leading properties are under intense pressure to stay ahead of the
pack, whether it be with their dry rieslings or with their luscious Spätleses.
However, where Dr. Manfred Prum can still show you a lovely 1983 Spätlese
and Egon Muller a stunning 1959 auslese, the number of excellent dry wines
is a relatively new phenomenon that merits closer attention.
Personally I believe that American importers and distributors are missing
an opportunity in not talking more about the dry rieslings. I think these
wines are some of Europe's finest and certainly most underrated whites
and in their youth work much better with food than a succulent Spätlese
or auslese, which need years of bottle aging before they shed their baby
fat and sweet fruit. Further, the dry wines mature much better than anyone
would ever imagine, developing complexity for years before they peak.
Granted, German nomenclature is already difficult, so adding a dry Spätlese
to a portfolio and teaching the clientele the meaning of the German word
trocken (= dry) is often not worth the investment. And we Americans like
our drinks sweet, be it Coca-Cola or chardonnay, so dry riesling seems
almost to be a contradiction in terms. Whether the tastes of our generation
will change appreciably is an open question, but the Germans are trying
to make the dry option more palatable. Although the concept of grand cru-Erstes
Gewächs, Grosses Gewächs or Erste Lage-is still in its infancy
in Germany, and still too complicated even for long-time German wine lovers,
there is no question that the finest dry wines produced in Germany today
are marketed in the long bottle embossed with a large "1" and
a cluster of grapes-the symbol for these grand crus.
The idea behind the concept of grand cru in Germany is a good one:the
use of terms like trocken and halbtrocken will be eliminated; kabinett,
Spätlese and auslese will become flavor profiles with varying degrees
of residual sugar; and only the finest vineyards will be highlighted on
labels. However, as this concept is still a private initiative other than
in the Rheingau, it has begun in fits and starts and is different from
region to region. In particular, the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer, where few
dry wines of merit are produced, want, as their major proponent Reinhard
Lowenstein declares, "that the vineyard be classified, whether it
be for a dry wine, a Spätlese or an eiswein. "In theory he is correct,
but until all the machinations have been put to rest the consumer's best
guarantee of a good wine is still the name of the producer followed by
a classified vineyard.
One other thing that few wine drinkers in America might suspect is the
extraordinary development of German red wines over the past decade, with
2003 being the pinnacle to date. I have never tasted so many excellent
pinot noirs here in the more than 20 years I have been writing about German
wine, but only a few of them are mentioned in this article for want of
space. Just as important, owing to limited distribution in the American
market, reds from the finest producers of the Ahr, Baden and Wurttemberg
are not included here because they are hardly ever seen in the U.S.
I began seriously tasting the 2004s in the spring of 2005 at the annual
fair organized by the VDP, the association of Germany's finest producers,
at which they give the trade a first glimpse of the new vintage. Over
the course of the summer I visited, as always, numerous estates in each
growing region in order to have a firsthand account of the growing conditions,
and to see market forces at work and assess the general level of satisfaction
with the new vintage. Although I often taste wines with the producers
at that time, I only write notes and score those wines that I have tasted
again under neutral conditions, so as not to be influenced by the presence
of estate owners, winemakers or sales directors, who always find a way
to hype the vintage that they are just bringing to market.
At about the same time I receive wines from all prestigious estates.
I first taste each collection in its entirety in order to ascertain how
a given producer dealt with the climatic conditions of the vintage, and
I then conclude each growing region with a comparative tasting of the
better wines. At that time I line up the dry rieslings with the dry rieslings,
the Spätleses with the Spätleses, and so on, in order to compare them,
and to see how they are evolving. In particular, this allows me to see
if a promising wine from a little-known estate truly has more potential
than a seemingly innocuous wine from a famous estate.
Finally, in late September I do a final comparative tasting across the
regions, in which the finest wines in each category are analyzed again
and a final score drawn.
There is thus little question that the highest marks here are reserved
for those wines that have consistently proven their mettle. There may
be a couple of wines that have fallen through the cracks, but in most
cases I have tasted the grand crus-Erstes and Grosses Gewächs-a fourth
time since the outset. I also asked a number of the better-known producers
to provide additional samples of wines that I might have underrated so
that I could look at them one more time before making a final call for
this article.
As the 2004s are, at their best, dense and bracing in their acidities,
they are evolving all the time. This characteristic of the vintage was
already a problem for the producers in the spring and summer, as they
were determining when to bottle their wines, and it has continued to be
an interesting topic of conversation ever since. Any one of us who ignores
the fact that judging the personality and quality of such wines at this
early stage is difficult is only deceiving himself. Nonetheless, I believe
that the reader will find here an accurate portrait of who in Germany
did the best work in this unusual vintage.
That Germany's labelling system can be confusing for the average consumer
is a well-known fact. I assume, however, that the interested reader will
understand how to interpret the wines portrayed on the following pages
and have provided additional information such as a #16 only when that
number is necessary to differentiate between two bottlings of what would
otherwise appear to be the same wine. This is generally the "amtliche
Prüfnummer (A.P.), which is the quality control board's bottling
number that by law must appear in small letters on the label. For many,
however, they are impossible to decipher, as they are long and only end
with 16 05, which means the 16th wine submitted to the board for approval
in 2005.
Generally, if there is a difference in quality between two bottlings
the producer will note this additionally with stars, gold capsules or
the like, but there is sometimes no other piece of information to distinguish
between two wines that might be quite different in style. Occasionally,
as with Karthäuserhof, the #53 refers not to the A.P. but to the cask
number; but as this is prominently noted on the label the consumer will
understand which wine I am referring to in such cases. Similarly, the
term "auction wine" is used only when that piece of information
best distinguishes between two bottlings.
Reviews of individual estates and wines:
Schloss Lieser Lieser (Mosel valley)
By Joel B. Payne
This estate has been managed since 1992 by Thomas Haag, who was able to
acquire the property with holdings in Graach, Bernkastel and Lieser five
years later. For quite some time he highlighted only the Helden vineyard
in Lieser, but since he inherited a portion of the Juffer-Sonnenuhr vineyard
in Brauneberg from his father Wilhelm of Fritz Haag, that site has graced
his labels as well. Since then Thomas and his brother Oliver (at Fritz
Haag) have had an ongoing competition to see who can make the finest Spätlese
from their common vineyard. This year Schloss Lieser had the edge.
Also recommended:
Schloss Lieser 2004 Riesling Spätlese Trocken
(Dry) (85 points),
Schloss Lieser 2004 Riesling Auslese Brauneberger
Juffer-Sonnenuhr (89 (+?) points)
Schloss Lieser 2004 Riesling Kabinett Brauneberger
Juffer (87 points)
($23) Lively aromas of white peach and spearmint. Crisp, sweet apricot
pit flavor is lifted by refreshing acidity. A light and well-balanced
kabinett whose tangy minerality makes it fun to drink.
Schloss Lieser 2004 Riesling Spätlese #5 Lieser
Niederberg Helden (90 points)
Smoky aromas of pear, sweet herbs and lemon candy. Glossy, plush apricot
pit fruit framed by a harmonious mineral structure. Subtly sweet finish
offers brown spice and pleasing length.
Schloss Lieser 2004 Riesling Spätlese A. P. #6 Lieserer
Niederberg Helden (92 points)
(auction item) Peach, mango and a hint of honey on the nose. The lush,
sweet peach stone fruit with its subtle spiciness is nicely highlighted
by the slate component. Well-balanced, extremely elegant and showing superb
length.
Schloss Lieser 2004 Riesling Spätlese Brauneberger
Juffer Sonnenuhr (92 (+?) points)
($31) Lively aromas of nectarine, white peach and lime. Generous apricot
fruit with massive extract somehow remains elegant owing to the wine's
tightly coiled spring of acidity. The creamy texture and mineral salts
linger persistently on the utterly convincing finish. One of the finest
Spätleses of the vintage.
Schloss Lieser 2004 Riesling Auslese Lieserer Niederberg
Helden (90 points)
($36) Pale golden yellow. Fine aromas of ripe peach, mango and acacia
honey. Glazed apricots with a creamy, glossy texture are infused with
sweet herbal spices. Richer and denser than the Spätlese, but not as ethereal.
Finishes with fine length.
Schloss Lieser 2004 Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule
Lieserer Niederberg Helden (92 points)
Golden yellow. Pear preserves, honey and a subtle note of smoky botrytis
on the nose. Very bright, ripe flavors of dried apricot fruit and insistent
slate set the tone. Finishes impressively long, with sweet herbal spices.
Very satisfying auslese.
Schloss Lieser 2004 Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule
#14 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr
(93 points)
Golden yellow. Heady aromas of overripe tropical fruits with a touch of
spicy botrytis. Sweet and luscious on the palate, with excellent depth
of flavor. Finishes impressively long, with pure flavors of nougat and
candied lemon.
Mönchhof - Robert Eymael
Ürzig (Mosel valley)
not rated
Joh. Jos. Prüm
Wehlen (Mosel valley)
By Joel B. Payne
For decades Dr. Manfred Prüm has been one of Germany's truly exceptional
riesling producers, and his wines, although difficult for many to understand
in their youth, are amazingly long-lived. Prüm tends not to talk
much about the details of his winemaking principles, and visitors are
not allowed into the cellar, but his Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese
generally speaks for itself. No, it sings! This was certainly the finest
overall collection produced on the Mosel, Saar or Ruwer in 2004.
Also recommended:
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2004 Riesling Kabinett Graacher
Himmelreich (87 points)
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2004 Riesling Spätlese Bernkasteler
Badstube (88 points)
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2004 Riesling Auslese Zeltinger
Sonnenuhr (89 points)
($56) Discrete aromas of ripe apricot, lime oil and clove. The rich peach
fruit and a creamy texture are kept under wraps by the fine slate. Clear
and long on the back, with an oily cling. Very nice off-dry wine.
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2004 Riesling Kabinett Wehlener
Sonnenuhr (89 points)
($40) Delicate aromas of cherry, apple blossom and sweet herbs. The palate
offers firm apricot stone fruit, with a nice sugar/acid balance. The elegant
finish features persistent slate minerality. An excellent kabinett.
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2004 Riesling Spätlese
Graacher Himmelreich (90 points)
($50) Green apple, lemon oil and clover aromas. Light and lively, yet
with a velvety mouth feel. Rose petal and saline minerality mingle on
the crisp, balanced finish. Satisfying Spätlese.
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2004 Riesling Spätlese
#13 Wehlener Sonnenuhr (92 points)
($50) Elegant aromas of bing cherry, apple blossom and roasted hazelnut.
Sweet, delicate and nonetheless creamy on the palate, with suggestions
of sweet herbs and a touch of vanilla. Lemon curd and slate animate the
compelling finish of this classy wine.
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2004 Riesling Spätlese
#15 Wehlener Sonnenuhr (94 points)
($50) Exotic aromas of passion fruit and mango are lifted by fine floral
elements. The luscious peach stone fruit and velvety texture are framed
by a finely chiseled minerality. Dense but airy, this is an almost perfect
Spätlese. Finishes with excellent length and considerable character. One
of the stars of the vintage.
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2004 Riesling Auslese Graacher
Himmelreich (91 points)
($53) Sedate aromas of blueberry, honey, apple and mint. Pure and rich
on the palate, with subtle nut oil and spice notes. Finishes with bright
brown spices, succulent length and lovely lift and delicacy.
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2004 Riesling Auslese Wehlener
Sonnenuhr (92 points)
($60) Fine bouquet of ripe apple, vanilla and sweet herbs. The palate
is rich, with a salty, resinous character complementing the undeniably
sweet apricot fruit. Unctuous yet lively auslese with a long, complex
finish. Needs time.
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2004 Riesling Auslese Long Gold
Capsule #18 Graacher Himmelreich (92 points)
($150) Heady aromas of apple jelly and coconut, with a hint of spicy botrytis.
The fruit flavors are quite tropical, and are accompanied by nut oil and
a honeyed glaze. Creamy yet lively, with understated slate on the long
finish.
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2004 Riesling Auslese #16 Wehlener
Sonnenuhr (93 points)
($70) Subtle bouquet offers passion fruit, lemon oil and nutmeg. The lusciously
sweet tropical fruit flavors are highlighted by a refreshing acidity that
makes this auslese appear light in spite of its density. Elegant, airy
and aristocratic rather than overblown, this wine is eminently drinkable
already but should age exceptionally well.
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2004 Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule
#17 Wehlener Sonnenuhr (93 points)
($120) Christmas fruitcake with cherry and white raisin on the nose. Glossy,
creamy and rich, with fine slate, brown spices and a floral element woven
into a braid of flavors. A faint touch of botrytis adds complexity to
the mineral-tinged finish. Richer than, but not as ethereal as, the long
gold capsule auslese that was sold at auction.
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2004 Riesling Auslese Long Gold
Capsule Wehlener Sonnenuhr (94 points)
($140; auction wine) Lofty aromas of orange blossom, vanilla and lemon
candy wrapped in subdued botrytis. Vanilla cream and mango are supported
by uplifting acids, giving structure and elegance to this lush, viscous
wine. Finishes extremely long, with a refreshing spice character. Very
impressive.
Dr. F. Weins-Prüm Wehlen (Mosel valley)
not rated
Fritz Haag Brauneberg (Mosel valley)
The exceptional Juffer-Sonnenuhr vineyard, trapped between the Mosel and
steep cliffs, is shaped like a large, flat parabolic dish that can store
the sun's energy throughout the day. This is where Wilhelm Haag makes
stunning ausleses with inimitable regularity. The '04 vintage was no exception.
In 2005 his son Oliver, who made a name for himself as the winemaker at
Wegeler in the Rheingau, returned home to take over the estate, but Wilhelm
will certainly remain involved. Incidentally, I rated Haag's 2003 Brauneberger
Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling TBA, released only this year at auction, a perfect
100 points.
Also recommended:
Fritz Haag 2004 Riesling Spätlese Trocken (Dry)
(85 points)
Fritz Haag 2004 Riesling Spätlese Trocken (Dry)
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr (86 points)
Fritz Haag 2004 Riesling Kabinett Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr
(86 points)
Fritz Haag 2004 Riesling Spätlese Brauneberger
Juffer (88 points)
Fritz Haag 2003 Riesling TBA Brauneberger
Juffer (100 points !!!)
Fritz Haag 2004 Riesling Spätlese Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr
(89 points)(+?)
($33) Lovely floral, peach and hazelnut aromas. Creamy apricot fruit is
given shape and lift by a bracing citrus character. Finishes well, with
slate, lemon oil and a hint of clove.
Fritz Haag 2004 Riesling Spätlese AP#14 Brauneberger
Juffer-Sonnenuhr (92 points)
($40) Enticing aromas of pineapple, peach and a hint of vanilla. The luscious
papaya fruit rides on an elegant framework of acids and underlying slate.
At once delicate and concentrated, with a note of toasted hazelnut on
the long, vibrant finish. One of the finest Spätleses of the vintage,
this is destined to be long-lived.
Fritz Haag 2004 Riesling Auslese A. P. #6 Brauneberger
Juffer-Sonnenuhr (91 points)
Discrete aromas of white peach, quince and mint. Rich, juicy apricot fruit
and an understated acidity are in delicate balance. Creamy lemon curd
and salty minerality mingle on the long finish.
Fritz Haag 2004 Riesling Auslese Gold Cap Brauneberger
Juffer-Sonnenuhr (93 points)
($91) Pale golden yellow. Rich bouquet of candied apricot, ginger and
nut oil, with just a whiff of botrytis. The rich, juicy pineapple fruit
and crisp slate give verve to the wine's subtle, creamy texture. Wonderfully
balanced wine with considerable promise, this one ends with a seductive
brown spice character.
Fritz Haag 2004 Riesling Auslese Gold Cap AP#13
Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr (93
(+?) points)
Golden yellow. Sumptuous aromas of peach skin, ripe apricot and clove
waft over a hint of smoky botrytis. The rich, dense passion fruit flavor
is creamy and silky but at the same time enlivened by an ethereal minerality.
This is fruit concentration with angel's wings and one of the finer efforts
of the vintage.
Reinhold Haart Piesport (Mosel valley)
By Joel B. Payne
Theo Haart is a quiet man who does little to draw attention to his own
achievements. However, he has a very definite idea of how his wines should
taste. They are always both elegant and complex, natural products of the
red slate soils in Piesport. Although well known for his Spätlese
and Auslese bottlings, he is also one of the few winemakers from the Mosel
who truly understands how to make dry riesling. Interestingly enough,
his Spätlese from the lesser-known Ohlingsberg in Wintrich is often
finer than the better-known Goldtröpfchen from Piesport. Vintage
2004 was no exception.
Also recommended:
Reinhold Haart 2004 Riesling Kabinett Piesporter
(85 points)
Reinhold Haart 2004 Riesling Spätlese Piesporter Kreuzwingert
(86 points)
Reinhold Haart 2004 Riesling Piesporter Goldtröpfchen
(88 points)
Aromas of pineapple, acacia blossom and lemon oil, Bright, crisp peach
stone fruit shows a nice counterpoint of leesy richness. Smoky, salty
and vibrant on the finish. An excellent dryish style of wine for the vintage.
Reinhold Haart 2004 Riesling Kabinett Piesporter
Goldtröpfchen (89 points)
Fresh bouquet of pear and apple blossom. Delicately sweet on the palate,
with a nice interplay of apricot and luscious citricity. Shows lipsmacking
elegance on the persistent finish. An exemplary kabinett.
Reinhold Haart 2004 Riesling Spätlese Piesporter
Domherr (89 points)
Sweet floral aromas with a hint of raspberry. The palate is rich and juicy,
and persistently honeyed. Finishes soft and low-keyed, with peach and
mineral salts. More pleasing than impressive.
Reinhold Haart 2004 Riesling Spätlese Piesporter
Goldtropchen Erste Lage (90 points)
($39) Yeasty aromas of fresh apple, tropical fruit and nut oil. Honeyed
and rich, but with a rather delicate papaya flavor, this Spätlese is kept
alive by its brisk acidity. Conveys clear, refreshing slate character
on the spicy finish.
Reinhold Haart 2004 Riesling Spätlese Wintricher
Ohligsberg (93 points)
Distinctive bouquet combines passion fruit, toasted hazelnut and a hint
of clove. Elegant peach fruit and glorious minerality give this wine great
character. Dense yet delicately spiced, this is one of the finest Spätleses
of the vintage. Finishes with outstanding length.
Reinhold Haart 2004 Riesling Auslese Wintricher
Ohligsberg Erste Lage (90 points)
($44) Pale golden yellow. Mango, tangerine and a hint of maple syrup on
the nose. The dominant apricot fruit and slate flavors are suffused with
nuts and honey. Richer than the Spätlese from the same site but not as
bright or elegant. Finishes with noteworthy length.
Reinhold Haart 2004 Riesling Auslese Piesporter
Goldtropchen Erste Lage (93 points)
($44) Pale golden yellow. Distinguished aromas of pineapple, blackcurrant
and nutmeg. The rich, buttery passion fruit flavor is nicely accentuated
by saline minerality. Pure, crisp and decidedly light in spite of the
sweetness, with elegant concentration and impressive length. Among the
better ausleses of the vintage.
Reinhold Haart 2004 Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule
Piesporter Goldtröpfchen (91 (+?) points)
Golden yellow. Apricot preserve, mango and a hint of smoky botrytis on
the nose. The unctuous peach fruit and honeyed texture rise above the
wine's understated acidity. Richer than the normal auslese from the same
site but not as ethereal. Still quite closed and in need of patience.
Milz - Laurentiushof Trittenheim (Mosel valley)
By Joel B. Payne
Markus Milz is particularly proud of the three pure slate vineyards that
he holds exclusively: the Trittenheimer Leiterchen and Felsenkopf as well
as the Neumagener Nusswingert. Although this estate's performance was
inconsistent in the late '90s, the past few vintages have shown Milz and
his winemaker Thomas Hermes on a steep learning curve. In fact, the 2004s
here may even be marginally better than the 2003s.
Also recommended:
Milz 2004 Riesling Spätlese Feinherb Trittenheimer
Leiterchen (86 points)
Milz 2004 Riesling Kabinett Trittenheimer (87
points).
Milz-Laurentiushof 2004 Riesling Spätlese Trittenheimer
Felsenkopf (89 points)
($31) Subtle bouquet of white peach, apple blossom and mint. Quite soft
and gentle, with the sweet apricot fruit nicely balanced by ripe but understated
acidity. Well-balanced and persistent.
Milz-Laurentiushof 2004 Riesling Spätlese Trittenheimer
Apotheke (91 points)
($31) Lively aromas of fresh apple, tropical fruit and nut oils. The juicy
papaya flavor and attractive oiliness are given a lightness by invigorating
acidity. Toasted nuts and a distinct slate accent animate the long finish.
Very refreshing.
Milz-Laurentiushof 2004 Riesling Auslese Trittenheimer
Felsenkopf (91 points)
($39) Pale golden yellow. Fruit-driven aromas of white peach and persimmon,
lifted by a floral element. The palate offers ripe apricot fruit and a
lush, velvety texture, nicely framed by flinty acidity. Rich and long
if a bit withdrawn on the spicy finish.
Karthäuserhof Eitelsbach (Ruwer valley)
By Joel B. Payne
Christoph Tyrell, whose family has owned this estate since 1811, has been
on a roll for the past several vintages. By 2002 it had become clear that
he had decided to play serious ball, and 2003 was perhaps the finest vintage
he has ever bottled. The whole range was so wonderfully sculpted and elegant,
and had such brilliant minerality, that it was in a class of its own.
Given the problems of the vintage, the 2004s do not offer quite the same
dimension, but they still represent the finest overall effort on the Ruwer.
Also recommended:
Karthäuserhof 2004 Riesling Spätlese Feinherb Eitelsbacher
Karthäuserhofberg (85 points),
Karthäuserhof 2004 Riesling Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg
(85 points),
Karthäuserhof 2004 Riesling Auslese #55 Eitelsbacher
Karthäuserhofberg (91 points).
Karthäuserhof 2004 Riesling Auslese Trocken (Dry)
Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg (88
points)
Apricot pit, apple blossom and a hint of mint on the nose. Light on the
palate, with dense peachy fruit held aloft by a vibrant acidity. This
will need time to mature into better balance, but is already pleasantly
long.
Karthäuserhof 2004 Riesling Spätlese Eitelsbacher
Karthäuserhofberg (88 points)
($33) Bright aromas of melon, kiwi and lemon oil. Nicely juxtaposes svelte
fruit and delicate acidity, conveying an impression of lift and freshness.
Well-balanced and persistent, but certainly not as deep as the 2003 version
of this bottling.
Karthäuserhof 2004 Riesling Auslese Eitelsbacher
Karthäuserhofberg (89 points)
($41) Pale golden yellow. Ripe aromas of cling peach, redcurrant and bay
leaf. Offers an uplifting swell of pineapple and honey on the palate.
Fresh, balanced and enticing on the finish.
Karthäuserhof 2004 Riesling Auslese #54 Eitelsbacher
Karthäuserhofberg (90 points)
Pale golden yellow. Heady aromas of ripe apricot and acacia honey, with
a slight suggestion of botrytis. Rich, sweet and velvety, with peachy
fruit braced by a refreshing acidity. There's a hint of creaminess, but
the wine retains a delicacy. Finishes with very good length.
Karthäuserhof 2004 Riesling Auslese #52 Eitelsbacher
Karthäuserhofberg (91 points)
Pale golden yellow. Fine aromas of apricot pit, quince and a hint of fig.
The palate offers a dynamic play of unctuous tropical fruit and vibrant
acidity. A deep wine in an almost ethereal style. Finishes spicy and long.
Karthäuserhof 2004 Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule
#53 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg
(92 points)
Pale golden yellow. Full-blown aromas of papaya, passion fruit and loads
of botrytis. The rich, unctuous tropical fruit flavors coat the palate.
More creamy than elegant or delicate, but certainly savory and very long
on the aftertaste.
Karthäuserhof 2004 Riesling
Eiswein #44 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg
(93 points)
Pale golden yellow. Elegant aromas of citrus fruits, raspberry and wild
spices. Impressively buoyant eiswein with almost electric acidity framing
the fruit. Dense yet elegant, and very long on the finish. Very impressive.
Karthäuserhof 2004 Riesling Eiswein #48 Eitelsbacher
Karthäuserhofberg (93 (+?) points)
Pale golden yellow. Crisp aromas of cherry jelly, quince and lemon oil.
Concentrated peachy fruit shows an almost creamy texture that manages
to be both bracing and lilting. Rich, compact and spicy. It's possible
that this auction eiswein will ultimately merit an even higher score.
von Hövel Oberemmel (Saar valley)
Following his son's advice, Eberhard von Kunow has begun to take more
risks - especially in his use of wild yeast fermentations - and the results
speak for themselves. This is one of the very few estates on the entire
Mosel that made, particularly at the Spätlese level, better 2004s
than 2003s. Fans of the crisp Saar style, with bright fruit, exuberant
character and nicely balanced residual sugar, should take a closer look
at these wines.
Also recommended:
von Hövel 2004 Riesling Kabinett Oberemmler Hütte
(86 points)
von Hövel 2004 Riesling Kabinett Scharzhofberger
(86 points)
von Hövel 2004 Riesling Spätlese Oberemmeler
Hütte (89 points)
($27) Aromas of white peach, ripe cherry and nut oil. Bright, crisp apple
fruit is accompanied by an almost salty minerality. Possesses just enough
creamy sweetness to assure an appealing finish.
von Hövel 2004 Riesling Spätlese Scharzhofberger
(90 points)
($27) White peach, ripe cherry and apple blossom on the fruit-driven nose.
Refined and poised, with a mouthwatering juiciness owing to a saline minerality.
Nicely balanced, rather hedonistic wine with a lush finish.
von Hövel 2004 Riesling Auslese Oberemmeler
Hütte (90 points)
($39) Pale golden yellow. Vibrant aromas of melon, mango and ginger. Tropical
fruits and caramelized peach fill the palate, and are nicely complemented
by a delicately refreshing, spicy character. Rather high-toned riesling,
finishing crisp and minerally.
von Hövel 2004 Riesling Auslese Scharzhofberger
(90 points)
($39) Pale golden yellow. Exuberant peach, lemon candy and vanilla on
the nose. Velvety apricot-flavored fruit is spiked by a saline minerality
that keeps the wine dancing over the palate. Well balanced and long.
von Hövel 2004 Riesling Auslese Kanzemer Horecker
Erste Lage (90 points)
($44) Pale golden yellow. Full-blown aromas of pink grapefruit, caramel
and white pepper. The expansive tropical fruit flavors nonetheless possess
spice and verve. A dense wine with a clean, refreshing finish.
von Hövel 2004 Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule
Oberemmeler Hütte (91 points)
Rich gold. Almost syrupy aromas of ripe peach, dried apricot and smoky
botrytis. Lusciously sweet quince on the palate; possesses an almost honeyed
texture but shows vigor and minerality due to the vibrant acidity. More
opulent than graceful, but lingers impressively on the finish.
Bert Simon Serrig (Saar valley)
not rated
Zilliken (- Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburg
(Saar valley)
By Joel B. Payne
The '90s were certainly a decade of success for Hans-Joachim Zilliken.
Although the first few vintages of this century were not up to the previous
standard, the estate now appears to be back on the right track. After
a stunning display of stickies last year, the two kabinetts here show
nice distinction in 2004.
Also recommended: Zilliken 2004 Riesling (85
points)
Zilliken 2004 Riesling Kabinett Ockfener Bockstein
(87 points)
($23) Crisp aromas of apple, acacia blossom and lemon zest. Savory pineappley
fruit is rich, salty and light at the same time. Very well balanced.
Zilliken 2004 Riesling Kabinett Saarburger
Rausch (88 points)
($23) Subtle aromas of pear, cherry pit and honeysuckle. Offers a delicate
palate feel, with mouthwatering freshness and crisp minerality. Finishes
with attractive lift. A good effort.
Zilliken 2004 Riesling Spätlese #4 Saarburger Rausch
(89 points)
($33) Lively floral nose offers fresh apricot and toasted almond. Subtly
creamy tropical fruit flavors offer a rather delicate texture and tangy
acidity. Compact, slightly spicy finish.
Zilliken 2004 Riesling Spätlese #2 Saarburger Rausch
(90 points)
Pale golden yellow. Lively aromas of pear, honeysuckle and sweet spices.
Refined and ripe, with a papaya flavor lifted by elegant minerality. Well-balanced
Spätlese with an animated, lingering finish. This is the Spätlese that
was auctioned in Trier.
Zilliken 2004 Riesling Auslese Saarburger Rausch
(91 points)
($51) Golden yellow. Aromas of ripe peach, guava and dates, with a hint
of spicy botrytis. A cool minerality gives a refreshing quality to the
luscious citrus fruit flavors. The finish is dominated by a spicy elegance
rather than an impression of weight.
Zilliken 2004 Riesling Gold Capsule Saarburger Rausch
(92 points)
Rich gold. Full-blown aromas of dried apricot, mango and fresh fig waft
over the botrytis notes of nutmeg and cinnamon. Rich and unctuous in the
mouth, with flavors of honey-glazed pineapple and robust, bright acidity.
Polished and high-toned on the finish.
Wegeler Oestrich (Rheingau region)
By Joel B. Payne
Since the introduction of their flagship wine, the "Geheimrat J"
Riesling Spätlese Trocken, this estate has enjoyed excellent distribution
in restaurants in Germany and its rieslings are seen on virtually all
the leading wine lists.In recent years, though, quality has often lagged
behind the estate's reputation.Of late, however, owner Dr. Tom Drieseberg
has taken things into his own hands and, with his new director Michael
Burgdorf, has turned out an impressive array of 2004s.In particular, the
two Erstes Gewächs bottlings are outstanding.If the basic wines show similar
progress in the coming years, this estate will again need to be rated
among the top producers in the Rheingau.
Also recommended:
Wegeler 2004 Riesling Spätlese Trocken (Dry) Winkler Hasensprung
(85 points)
Wegeler 2004 Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Johannisberger
Hölle (85 points)
Wegeler 2004 Riesling Kabinett Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg
(86 points)
Wegeler 2004 "Geiheimrat J" Riesling Spätlese
Trocken (Dry) (88 points)
Wegeler 2004 Riesling Spätlese Gold Capsule Rüdesheimer
Berg Rottland (89 points)
Wegeler 2004 Riesling (dry) Erstes Gewächs Winkler
Jesuitengarten (92 points)
($42; dry wine) Aromas of white peach, acacia blossom and lemon zest.
Densely packed wine, with a fruit character verging on exotic, along with
notes of oyster shell spiciness and a touch of hyacinth. In spite of its
sheer weight, this wine literally dances across the palate. Long, thirst-quenching
finish.
Wegeler 2004 Riesling (dry) Erstes Gewächs Rüdesheimer
Berg Schlossberg (93 points)
($42) Lifted aromas of apricot pit, persimmon and laurel. At once incredibly
dense, crisp and clean, with an expansive texture to the ripe peach fruit
and a refreshing minerality on the back of the palate. Weighty and intensely
spicy on finish, but extremely classy. One of the most stunning dry rieslings
of the vintage.
Wegeler 2004 Riesling Spätlese Rüdesheimer Berg
Rottland (88 points)
($31) Subtle aromas of ripe peach and lemon oil, with a hint of greenness
lurking. Soft, creamy papaya flavor has just enough vibrant spice to give
it life. Nicely balanced and fun to drink.
Wegeler 2004 Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule Geisenheimer
Rothenberg (92 points)
Candied pineapple, roasted pine nuts and a hint of vanilla mingle with
botrytis tones of woodsmoke and clove. The sweet, dense tropical fruits
flow in a creamy way over the palate. This is auslese in a distinctly
classical style, nicely bright in spite of its weight. Succulent on the
finish.
Wegeler 2004 Riesling Eiswein (half bottle) Rüdesheimer
Berg Rottland (92 points)
($118; for 375 ml.) Bright aromas of white peach, candied lemon and mint
leaf. Bright, crisp apricot pit flavor offers very good definition thanks
to the wine's excellent acid structure. But this broad-shouldered wine
will need time to absorb its spicy minerality. I may be underrating this.
Robert Weil Kiedrich (Rheingau region)
By Joel B. Payne
Few German wine estates have what I call chateau character. Robert Weil
does. Whatever the vintage, this label is always a guarantee of quality-and
2004 is no exception. And Wilhelm Weil's performance today is particularly
impressive given the estate's rapid growth in vineyard size, which now
totals more than 150 acres. No other estate at this exalted quality level
is anywhere near that large. For years Weil's botrytized dessert wines
have enjoyed an avid following, but since the reintroduction of oak vats
to mature the dry Rieslings the Erstes Gewächs has also emerged as
a wine to be taken seriously.
Also recommended:
Robert Weil 2004 Riesling Feinherb (85
points)
Robert Weil 2004 Riesling Spätlese Trocken (Dry)
(86 points)
Robert Weil 2004 Riesling Kabinett Trocken (Dry) Kiedricher
Grafenberg (87 points)
Robert Weil 2004 Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken
(87 points)
Robert Weil 2004 Riesling (dry) Erstes Gewächs Kiedricher
Grafenberg (91 points)
($72; dry wine) Vibrant aromas of yellow plum, lemon oil and bay leaf.
Explosively fruity, with stony minerality and impressive grip. Full-bodied
but not at all hot or heavy. Finely spiced finish. A very strong effort.
Robert Weil 2004 Riesling Kabinett (88
points)
($32) Light aromas of apple blossom, cherry pit and mint. Crisp, vibrant
fruit shows a delicate touch. The wine's sweetness remains light thanks
to the lively acidity. A textbook kabinett.
Robert Weil 2004 Riesling Spätlese (88
points)
($46) White peach, pear drop and lemon oil on the nose. The palate offers
a creamy texture and a flavor of apricot preserves lifted by a refreshing
minty tang. A well-balanced Spätlese in a modern interpretation of the
Rheingau style.
Robert Weil 2004 Riesling Spätlese Kiedricher Grafenberg
(92 points)
($72) Delicate floral nose hints at yellow plum, quince and vanilla. Offers
a honeyed richness, but the firm mineral foundation provides lift and
complexity. A salty crispness keeps the palate fresh. A classic Spätlese
from the Rheingau and certainly one of the finest of the vintage.
Robert Weil 2004 Riesling Auslese Kiedricher Grafenberg
(92 points)
($145) Musky aromas of apricot pit, vanilla and oyster shell. The smoky,
rich botrytis character gives the palate a candied-fruit aspect. Creamy
and smoky, yet at the same time clear, precise and impressively long.
Robert Weil 2004 Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule Kiedricher
Grafenberg (95 points)
A perfumed, floral element mingles with white peach, acacia honey and
botrytis tones from start to finish. Wonderfully pure and dense, with
tropical fruit flavors framed by a vibrant minerality that gives this
auslese a kick that few wines of the vintage possess. Luscious, sensual
and extremely long. Hats off!
Robert Weil 2004 Riesling Beerenauslese Kiedricher
Grafenberg (half bottle) (95 points)
(($281 for 375 ml.) Musky aromas of peach, butterscotch and cinnamon rise
above the botrytis. Full-bodied caramelized fruits overwhelm the palate,
only just balanced by the oyster shell salinity. Succulent sweet flavors
pervade the finish. This wine still needs time.
Robert Weil 2004 Riesling Beerenauslese Gold Capsule
Kiedricher Grafenberg (95 points)
Heady aromas of tropical fruit, woodsmoke and honeyed botrytis. The opulent
fruit extract is overpoweringly sweet but not at all heavy. A discreet
minerality gives the wine an ethereal freshness. Youthfully closed today
and difficult to judge, this wine will need ages to unfold. But clearly
offers great potential.
Robert Weil 2004 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Kiedricher
Grafenberg (96 points)
Opulent aromas of caramelized peach, quince preserves and oyster shell.
Incredibly dense and creamy-rich, but the sweetness is leavened by a juicy,
almost salty tanginess. In spite of this wine's great depth and weight,
it's impressively elegant. Finishes with great persistence.
Robert Weil 2004 Riesling Eiswein Kiedricher Grafenberg
(93 points)
High-toned aromas of pear drop, quince and mint. An incredibly dense nectar
of sweet pineapple and lime fruits with rapier-like acidity. The intense,
salty minerality soars on the finish. Offers outstanding potential, but
this may not reach its peach for 20 years.
Künstler Hochheim (Rheingau region)
By Joel B. Payne
There are few winemakers in Germany who are as popular as Gunter Künstler,
which is probably why so many wine lovers remained faithful to this cult
figure even though his rieslings of the 2000 and 2001 vintages were rather
disappointing. The 2002 vintage brought a marked improvement, and his
2003 and 2004 Rieslings are nearly back to his once extremely high standard.
The dry wines have a succulent texture and the concentrated Spätlese
from the Kirchenstück vineyard is one of the highlights of the vintage.
Also recommended:
Franz Künstler 2004 Riesling Kabinett Trocken (Dry) Hochheimer Hölle
(87 points)
Franz Künstler 2004 Riesling Trocken (Dry) Hochheimer
Domdechaney (88 points)
Franz Künstler 2004 Riesling Trocken (Dry) Alte Reben Hochheimer
Stielweg (90 points)
Aromas of yellow plum, vanilla and oyster shell. Richly polished fruit
shows a hint of sweetness and is complemented by an almost chalky minerality.
Poised and spicy on the lingering finish.
Franz Künstler 2004 Riesling Trocken (Dry) Gold
Capsule Hochheimer Hölle (91 points)
Fine aromas of white peach, lemon zest and sweet herbs. Austere fruit
extract lifted by complex acidity. A wine of impressive depth that is
closed now but built for the long haul.
Franz Künstler 2004 Riesling Kabinett Hochheimer
Reichestal (88 points)
($25) Crisp aromas of candied pear and lemon oil. Glossy, sweet fruit
offers lovely depth but no excess weight. Offers a nice balance of residual
sugar and acidity.
Franz Künstler 2004 Riesling Spätlese Hochheimer
Kirchenstück (92 points)
($40) Heady aromas of ripe apricot, candied pineapple and herbal spices.
Unctuously rich fruit communicates a vivacious character thanks to bracing
acidity. Finishes with grip and real distinction.
Franz Künstler 2004 Riesling Beerenauslese Hochheimer
Stielweg (91 points)
Deeply pitched aromas of mandarin orange liqueur, acacia honey and botrytis.
Sweet and viscous fruits dominate the palate. The finish is noteworthy
more for sheer weight than elegance.
Pfeffingen Ungstein (Pfalz region) Jan/Feb
06
By Joel B. Payne
This estate set amidst the vineyards is the life work of Karl Fuhrmann,
whose daughter Doris now runs the business, assisted since 2002 by her
son Jan. Riesling and Scheurebe wines have always been their strengths.
As many of the vineyards were replanted in the '80s there were a number
of vintages that did not have the depth I had grown accustomed to, but
the estate's performance over the last few years has been impressive.
Vintage 2004 has taken this development to new heights.
Also recommended:
Pfeffingen 2004 Riesling Spätlese Ungsteiner Herrenberg
(85 points)
Pfeffingen 2004 Riesling Kabinett Trocken (Dry) Ungsteiner
Herrenberg (86 points)
Pfeffingen 2004 Riesling Spätlese Trocken (Dry) Ungsteiner
Herrenberg Mandelskopf (89 points)
Herbal aromas of pineapple, lemon rind and toasted nuts. Pungent pit fruit
flavors and creamy texture are set off by salty mineral notes. Spicy acidity
lends vivacity to the persistent finish.
Pfeffingen 2004 Riesling Spätlese Trocken (Dry) Grosses
Gewächs Ungsteiner Weilberg (92 points)
($35) Lively aromas of candied grapefruit, roasted almond and mineral
salts. The rich, unctuous tropical fruit flavors are complemented and
given shape by a smoky minerality. Dense and impressively long, this wine
offers excellent potential.
Pfeffingen 2004 Scheurebe Spätlese Ungsteiner Herrenberg
(88 points)
($25) Lively aromas of candied pineapple, blackcurrant and mint. Sweet,
glossy peach fruit is highlighted by a touch of brown spice that communicates
a sense of richness and complexity. Finishes with good length.
Pfeffingen 2004 Gewürztraminer Spätlese Ungsteiner
Nussriegel (89 points)
($25) Pale golden yellow. Delicate aromas of rose petal, caraway seed
and lemon oil. The rich, juicy papaya flavor enchants the palate and is
kept fresh by a discreet yet spicy acidity. Nicely balanced and persistent.
Pfeffingen 2004 Riesling Auslese Ungsteiner Herrenberg
(89 points)
($31) Golden yellow. Candied pineapple, wild herbs and a hint of nut oil
on the nose. The palate offers a harmonious combination of juicy passion
fruit flavor and creamy texture. Finishes with refreshing spice and very
good length. Perhaps even better than it's showing today.
Pfeffingen 2004 Scheurebe Beerenauslese Ungsteiner
Herrenberg (94 points)
($49) Rich golden-yellow color. Exotic aromas of grapefruit, muskmelon
and mint, along with an obvious spicy botrytis character. The sweet papaya
and honey flavors are suffused with bright citricity. Extravagantly delicious
and long.
Pfeffingen 2004 Scheurebe Trockenbeerenauslese Ungsteiner
Herrenberg (95 points)
($83) Rich gold. Opulent aromas of candied grapefruit, wild herbs and
honeyed botrytis. The unctuously sweet and creamy tropical fruit flavors
are further enriched by a glazed honey character. Wonderfully dense yet
surprisingly elegant and light on its feet. And exceptionally long on
the aftertaste.
von Buhl Deidesheim (Pfalz region) Jan/Feb
06
By Joel B. Payne
This icon of the wine industry in the Pfalz has been on a roller coaster
ride of late. Fortunes were invested in this winery in the '90s, but personnel
changes have been accompanied by fluctuations in both style and quality.The
new owner, Achim Niederberger, who also purchased Bassermann-Jordan, brought
in Werner Sebastian and Michael Leibrecht, who had already proved their
mettle elsewhere, and their first vintage together shows a level of consistency
on which they can certainly build in the future. They have the vineyards
to make it work. As always, but certainly not typical of the Pfalz, the
Spätleses and Ausleses are better than the Grosses Gewächs.
I will keep close watch on the developments here.
Also recommended:
von Buhl 2004 Riesling Kabinett Trocken (Dry) Deidesheimer
Herrgottsacker (85 points)
von Buhl 2004 Riesling Spätlese Trocken (Dry) Forster Ungeheuer
(87 points)
von Buhl 2003 Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) Spätlese
Trocken (Dry) (87 points)
von Buhl 2004 Riesling Spätlese Trocken (Dry)
Grosses Gewächs
Forster Pechstein (88 points)
Herbal aromas of white peach, woodsmoke and mint. Vibrant peach pit and
spicy minerality inform the polished, moderately deep flavors. Finishes
cool, minty and persistent.
von Buhl 2004 Riesling Spätlese Trocken (Dry)
Grosses Gewächs
Forster Jesuitengarten (88 points)
($46) Spicy aromas of melon, clove and mineral salts. The delicate peach
fruit and salty minerality are nicely woven on the palate. Well-balanced
but ultimately a wine of only moderate depth. Finishes with good length,
though.
von Buhl 2004 Riesling Spätlese Trocken (Dry)
Grosses Gewächs
Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad (88 points)
(dry wine) Aromas of ripe apricot, smoked meat and nutmeg. Quite broad-shouldered,
but the wine's rich peach fruit is kept in check by an understated yet
present acidity. Shows more depth than elegance, but finishes with good
length.
von Buhl 2004 Riesling Spätlese Trocken (Dry)
Grosses Gewächs
Forster Kirchenstück (89 points)
($51) Exotic aromas of yellow plum, muskmelon and lemon oil. Rich and
creamy, with the impressive depth of peach stone fruit typical of the
site. Expansive finish features clove spice and good length. I may be
underrating this, but it's certainly not what I would expect from this
great vineyard for dry riesling.
von Buhl 2004 Riesling Auslese Forster Ungeheuer
(92 points)
($48) Golden yellow. Papaya, candied peach and mineral salts along with
smoky botrytis on the nose. The juicy apricot pit flavor is in perfect
harmony with the wine's rich, creamy texture and is complemented by a
vibrant spice element. Succulent, honeyed botrytis emerges again on the
back end, contributing to the length of this impressive auslese.
von Buhl 2004 Scheurebe Auslese Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad
(92 points)
($28) Golden yellow. Lively aromas of pink grapefruit, blackcurrant and
mint. Exuberant guava and dense passion fruit flavors enliven the unctuous
texture. Both serious and refreshing; the wine's admirable depth is accentuated
by a long, spicy finish.
Rebholz Simmeldingen (Pfalz region) Jan/Feb
06
By Joel B. Payne
This estate has been a pioneer in the southern Pfalz for three generations,
but when Hansjorg Rebholz took over after the early death of his father
some 25 years ago, few in Germany knew of him and the southern Pfalz was
no-man's-land. As did his father and grandfather before him, he continued
to produce individualistic and uncompromisingly dry wines that often appear
a little rough in their youth but develop marvelously. Over the past ten
years quality here has skyrocketed, so that if I had to pick just one
producer from the Pfalz today it would certainly be Rebholz. Although
he only occasionally produces the trockenbeerenausleses that are so highly
esteemed by many wine lovers, he does everything else with great skill.
Also recommended:
Rebholz 2004 Weisser Burgunder Kabinett Trocken (Dry)
(85 points)
Rebholz 2004 Grauer Burgunder Kabinett Trocken (Dry)
(85 points)
Rebholz 2004 Muskateller Kabinett Trocken (Dry) (85
points)
Rebholz 2004 Silvaner Kabinett Trocken (Dry) (86
points)
Rebholz 2004 Riesling Kabinett Trocken (Dry) Bundsandstein
(87 points)
Rebholz 2004 Weisser Burgunder Spätlese Trocken (Dry)
(88 points)
Rebholz 2004 Grauer Burgunder Spätlese Trocken (Dry)
(88 points)
Rebholz 2004 Riesling Spätlese Trocken (Dry) Bundsandstein
(89 points)
Rebholz 2004 Weisser Burgunder (Pinot Blanc) Spätlese
Trocken (Dry) Grosses Gewächs Siebeldinger im Sonnenschein (92
points)
Delicate aromas of apricot skin, clove and mineral salts. The taut, juicy
peach pit flavor vibrates with a refreshing acidity. Dense and beautifully
pure if still youthfully closed. Very long on the aftertaste.
Rebholz 2004 Chardonnay Spätlese Trocken (Dry) (92
points)
Waxy aromas of peach, smoked meat and toasted oak. Full-bodied, rich and
spicy, yet remains light thanks to its firm minerality. Highly concentrated
chardonnay with a strikingly long finish.
Rebholz 2004 Riesling Spätlese Trocken (Dry) Grosses Gewächs
Siebeldinger im Sonnenschein (91 points)
Fine aromas of white peach, persimmon and lemon oil. The rich, shimmering
apricot flavor and bracing minerality remain fresh and lively. Clearly
focused on the finish and impressively long.
Rebholz 2004 Spätlese Trocken (Dry) Grosses
Gewächs
Birkweiler Kastanienbusch Riesling (93 points)
Smoky aromas of apricot pit, quince and mineral salts. The rich, dense
peach pit flavor is framed by a bright saline minerality that also adds
complexity. Enormously deep wine with a refreshing spice character and
stunning length. One of the finest dry rieslings of the vintage.
Rebholz 2004 Gewürztraminer Spätlese (89
points)
($25) Pale golden yellow. Subtle aromas of rose petal, nutmeg and clove.
The juicy passion fruit flavors are nicely embedded in the wine's creamy
texture. The bright, spicy finish belies the faint touch of residual sugar.
Nice length.
Rebholz 2004 Gewürztraminer Spätlese Albersweiler
Latt (94 points)
Opulent aromas of rose petal, lichee and sweet smoke. An unctuously sweet
papaya flavor covers the palate in a wave yet is kept light by an understated
minerality. Dense, perfectly balanced and extremely long.
Rebholz 2004 Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) Spätlese
Trocken (Dry)
Siebeldinger Im Sonnenschein (92 points)
Bright ruby. Wild aromas of black cherry, violet and gunflint. On the
palate, this boasts juicy but precise berry flavors and considerable elegance.
with refined tannins and elegance. Highly distinguished pinot noir with
refined tannins and excellent peppery persistence.
Rebholz 2004 Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) Spätlese
Trocken (Dry) Gold Capsule
Siebeldinger Im Sonnenschein (94 points)
Dark red. Captivating aromas of wild strawberry, woodsmoke and clove.
Wonderfully suave and elegant, but also quite gripping, with peppery depth
of flavor and youthfully taut tannins. A German pinot noir of great class
and complexity.
Gunderloch Nackenheim (Rheinhessen region)
Jan/Feb 06
By Joel B. Payne
Fritz and Agnes Hasselbach have taken this estate from virtual obscurity
to the international limelight in little more than a decade, and have
traveled the world as ambassadors for their quite dry, voluptuous and
very individual style of wine. Known for harvesting very late, the pair
took this concept to new extremes with the 2004 vintage. The two ausleses
were crushed in early December, but the TBA, which had yet to be released
as this issue went to print, was not harvested until January 27! After
the blockbusters the Hasselbachs bottled in 2003, the 2004s are much purer
and more vibrant and yet also more delicate in style, as the two kabinetts
so well document.
Gunderloch 2004 Riesling (dry) Nackenheimer Rotenberg
(88 points)
($50; trocken in style) Subtle aromas of white peach, persimmon and musk.
Juicy apricot flavor shows nice clarity and good weight, even if it's
still dominated by the bright citric acidity. Although crisp and clean
on the finish, this wine is still very closed. Experience indicates that
it will show much better in a year's time and thus my score may well prove
to be conservative.
Gunderloch 2004 Riesling Kabinett Jean Baptiste
(87 points)
($20) Ripe pear with a touch of lemon and some floral overtones on the
nose. The enticing fruit is driven by a buoyant acidity that delivers
freshness and assures good drinkability. The subtle, well integrated sweetness
remains delicate on the finish.
Gunderloch 2004 Riesling Spätlese Nackenheimer Rothenberg
(89 points)
($38) Ripe peach, passion fruit and candied lemon on the nose. Rich and
juicy in texture, but still clean and refreshing. In spite of the residual
sugar this Spätlese remains bright and lively on the finish.
Gunderloch 2004 Riesling Auslese Nackenheimer Rothenberg
(91 points)
($50) Pale golden yellow. Aromas of a pricot nectar and pineapple, with
a hint of smoked meat. The sweet, luscious fruit offers a velvety texture
that is kept light by the wine's enticing acid structure. Pure, delicate,
refined and persistent on the back end.
Gunderloch 2004 Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule Nackenheimer
Rothenberg (92 points)
($91) Deep golden yellow. Rich melon, acacia honey and smoked almonds
dominate the nose, with some botrytis hints in the background. The deep,
rich, highly concentrated pineapple fruit currently dominates the wine's
subtle acidity, which will only begin to surface as this wine ages. Caramelized
peach and a touch of citrus fruit enliven the finish. Offers excellent
potential.
Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenau (Nahe
region)
By Joel B. Payne
Since Tim Frohlich joined his father Hans in 1995 this estate has gone
from strength to strength-and the last three vintage here have been stunning.
Tim is a cool thinker, never entirely satisfied with what he has achieved;
his wines reflect the character of their maker-clear, with no frills,
and no room for compromise. Nowhere is this more poignantly expressed
than in the brilliant botrytis dessert wines, which each year are among
the best produced anywhere in Germany. In 2004 the dry wines are of similar
stature. If this level of performance continues, the big three on the
Nahe will soon have to make room for a fourth chair.
Also recommended:
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2004 Schlossbockelheimer Felseneck Riesling
Kabinett (86 points)
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2004 Riesling Trocken (Dry) "vom Porphyr"
(88 points)
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2004
Bockenauser Felseneck Riesling Spätlese "I" (88
points)
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2004
Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Spätlese (90
points)
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2004 Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Eiswein
(93 points)
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2004 Riesling Dry Grosses
Gewächs Bockenauer Felseneck (90 points)
($51; dry wine) Aromas of white peach, lemon oil and oyster shell. Very
crisp citrus fruits drive the wine forward. Almost angular in its expression
at present due to its bracing acidity, this wine possesses very good weight,
but lacks the depth of this estate's two other grand crus.
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2004 Riesling Dry Grosses
Gewächs Monzinger Fruhlingsplatzchen (91
points)
($51; dry) Blackcurrant, lemon balm and a floral nuance on the nose. Full
and dense on the palate, yet juicy and invigorating. A concentrated, long
finish highlights the depth and minerality of this wine.
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2004 Riesling Dry Grosses
Gewächs Monzinger Halenberg (91
points)
($51; dry) Explosive aromas of nectarine, honeysuckle and anise seed.
Shows an almost chewy texture along with a minerality that's like licking
stone; the fruit and minerality are nicely interwoven. Superb purity and
complexity on the lingering finish.
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2004 Riesling Spätlese
Bockenauer Felseneck II (91 points)
($34) Heady aromas of melon, pineapple and sweet lime. The silky-sweet
fruit and pure mineral salts unfold to show an almost sensuous tactile
quality. Well-balanced and elegant on the aftertaste.
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2004 Riesling Auslese
Bockenauer Felseneck (90 points)
($58) Pale golden yellow color. Fine aromas of mango, acacia honey and
lemon zest. Rich tropical fruit flavors betray no sense of heaviness.
Hints of vanilla spice on the slightly sweet finish.
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2004 Riesling Auslese
Gold Capsule Bockenauer Felseneck (92 points)
Pale gold. Unctuous aromas of tropical fruits, muskmelon and vanilla wrestle
with botrytis for center stage. Rich, honeyed and velvety, with the papaya
and mango flavors finely paired with wet stone and saline acidity. Finishes
juicy, invigorating and long.
Schäfer-Fröhlich 2004 Riesling Eiswein
Gold Capsule Bockenauer Felseneck (95 points)
Intriguing aromas of dried apricot, persimmon and sweet spices hide a
suggestion of botrytis. Velvety in texture, with the succulent quince
and acacia honey flavors framed and enlivened by the mineral acidity that
comes from blue slate soils. Brilliant, extremely long finish.
Rudi Wiest Selections
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