Overview:
"In good company": 1949 - 1959 - 1969 - 1979 - 1989
- An interesting series of vintages that spanned the last half century. An attempt
to put numbers on or to compare 1989 might be a little premature but early tastings
suggest a superb Riesling vintage that will detract little from the above company
and will surely surpass both 1969 and 1979.
After a mild winter, the new year began with a
warm spring. Warm and sunny March had buds sprouting by 4/11
almost three weeks ahead of normal. April was cool and with
double the normal rainfall delayed greening of the vineyards.
After a hot May (50% above normal sunshine) flowering went
smoothly in mid-June. By 8/20 the grapes started the ripening
process. A hailstorm, in early September caused severe damage not
only in Kinheim and Ürzig on the Mosel but also in Kallstadt and
Ungstein in the Pfalz. September was cool and dry. The beginning
of October brought the long awaited rainfall which gave the
vegetation a big boost and greatly assisted botrytis formation.
In the remaining warm and sunny days of October the harvest
finished smoothly. It should be noted that the 1989 harvest was
extremely labor intensive with a number of estates exceeding 500
hrs/ha (60% to 70% above normal) harvesting time. Not only did
1989 offer the best opportunity of the 80s to make BAs and TBAs,
the last weekend in November in addition produced numerous
Eisweins to top off the vintage.
1989 offers the broadest range of quality
levels from QbA to TBA including Eiswein which is rare for any
vintage. By contrast in 1988 the quality was pretty much centered
around Spätlese and Auslese. The best wines in 1989 were made on
the Saar, Ruwer and all the Rhein regions even though the middle
Mosel can answer with some superb BAs and TBAs. 1989 for most
areas, Graach and Wehlen on the Mosel excepted, is the best
vintage of the 80s. A review of the vintage by grower follows:
Estates by region
MOSEL-SAAR-RUWER
MÖNCHHOF
Harvest was about 20% above normal with acid levels ranging from
8gm/l to 11gm/l. Quality breakdown is 25% QbA, 30% Kabinett, 40%
Spätlese, 500 l of a superb Auslese (Erdener Treppchen) and 350
l BA Ürziger Würzgarten - it may surpass the great 1976 BA -
almost 150 Öchsle at 9.2gm/l acidity).
CHRISTOFFEL-BERRES
Yield was 100hl/ha in Erden and 75 hl/ha in
Ürzig (there was some hail damage). The finished wines still
have 8.5gm/l of mostly tartaric acid. Mr. Christoffel compares
the vintage favorably to his 1975s. He likes the Spätleses
better than the 1988s but prefers the 1988 Ausleses.
J.J. PRÜM
Yield was 75hl/ha for an average harvest. Dr.
Manfred Prüm rates the vintage a 8.5 /10. Quality breakdown is
70% QbA and Kabinett, where most of the QbAs are small
declassified Kabinetts, 30% Spätlese with small amounts of very
high quality Auslese, GKA and LGKA. There is also a BA and a TBA
(only one in the 80s) in the Wehlener Sonnenuhr.
DR. F. WEINS-PRÜM
Harvest about 30% above normal. Wines with very
good acid structure with Spätleses at over 9gm/l acidity in
finished wines. The Waldracher wines are especially fine - better
than even 88. First vintage in Graacher Domprobst since the
replanting brought a superb GKA (300 l, at 105 Öchsle and 8.4
gm/l acidity).
S.A. PRÜM
Yield was 88hl/ha or about 30% above normal.
The Estate Riesling is declassified Kabinett. At this early stage
we prefer 89 over 88 at S.A. Prüm which is not normally the case
in Wehlen. Some very fine Ausleses, GKA and BA (137 Öchsle -
could have more acidity - wait and see). The Graacher Kabinetts
have superb acid structure.
Wwe. DR. H. THANISCH
At 90 hl/ha yield was a little higher than in
'88. It was mostly a Kabinett and Spätlese vintage with over
9gm/l acidity in the finished wines. There were also some QbA,
Ausleses and to top off the vintage a BA and TBA both in the
Bernkasteler Doctor. Thanisch continues on the comeback trail and
the '89 will only solidify its positions as one of the better
estates on the middle Mosel.
FRITZ HAAG
Yield was above average at 80 hl/ha. Wilhelm
Haag rates the vintage 9/10 and compares the young wines to his
1975s and 1953s. High praise indeed. I personally rate the
vintage 9.5/10 and found the young wines exceptionally balanced,
explosive fruit on the palate with 9.5 to 9.8 gm/l acidity in the
finished wines. Production was 20% QbA (declassified Kabinett and
Spätlese), 40% Kabinett, 25% Spätlese and 15% Auslese, GKA,
LGKA and the crowning achievement, a TBA at over 200 Öchsle.
MILZ - LAURENTIUSHOF
At 75hl/ha this was an average harvest for
quantity but a near great harvest for quality. Best wines of the
80s. There was good ripeness with superb acid structure with
approximately 15% Estate Riesling (mostly declassified Kabinett),
15% Kabinett, 35% Spätlese and 32% Auslese. Rest is 600 liter BA
(Leiterchen at 140 Öchsle with 10.5gm/l acidity), 250 l TBA
(Apotheke at 178 Öchsle) and 400 l BA quality Eiswein at 140
Öchsle with 14 gm/l acidity.
KARTHÄUSERHOF
Possibly the finest vintage since 1959. Not
only did the wines get very ripe but there are terrific acids to
go with the fruit. Yield was significantly above normal. There
was a broad spectrum of quality levels from QbA, Kabinett,
Spätlese, Auslese, including GKA, to 600 l BA (128 Öchsle) and
150 l TBA (180 + Öchsle) and Eiswein.
PIEDMONT
With 110 hl/ha the yield was over 50% above
normal with superb acid structure in the must, almost 90%
tartaric. Klaus Piedmont who is now in charge, after this father
passed away in '89, considers '89 to be the best vintage since
1976. Extremely labor intensive harvest. Spent 510 hours/ha
versus a normal harvest time of 320 hrs/ha. Quality breakdown is
15% QbA (again declassified Kabinett), 35% Kabinett, 35%
Spätlese, the rest Auslese (with two Fuders at 110 Öchsle) and
BA (600 l that also includes the only TBA harvested in the 80s).
von HÖVEL
Yield was 76 hl/ha which is slightly above
normal. Eberhard von Kunow rates the vintage slightly above '75
(with more botrytis) but not as good as '71. Very good acid
structure; up to 80% tartaric acid. Quality breakdown is 0% QbA,
30% Kabinett, 60% Spätlese and 10% Auslese, BA (Hütte at 135
Öchsle) and Eiswein (Hütte).
EGON MÜLLER-SCHARZHOF / LE GALLAIS
70 hl/ha yield with 100% predicate wines. Small
quantities of Kabinett may be declassified for Estate Riesling,
30% Kabinett, 60% Spätlese and 10% Auslese and up. There are BAs
and TBAs at both Scharzhof and Le Gallais and Eisweins at the
Scharzhof only. Again superb acids with up to 80% tartaric. By
far the best vintage of the 80s. similar to 1971 and 1975.
DR. FISCHER
110 hl/ha or almost 40% above normal. At the
beginning of the harvest the must acids were 12 to 13 gm/l and
towards the end were still 10 gm/l. Mr. Fischer likens the
vintage to his 1975s. Quality breakdown is 20% QbA, 30% Kabinett
and 49% Spätlese. There are two Fuders of GKA, 800 liters BA
with 9.5 gm/l acidity and 1000 l Eiswein (126 to 176 Öchsle at
18 gm/l acidity).
ZILLIKEN
Even with a way above average yield, 100 hl/ha,
the quality will be very good. The dry period in the summer
caused significant dry damage and the harvest was very labor
intensive. There is only 8% QbA with the rest predicate wines.
There are some superb Ausleses including a LGKA (BA quality) and
two Eisweins - lethal weapons '89. Hanno Zilliken compares the
vintage to 1975.
SCHLOSS SAARSTEIN
Yield was 90 hl/ha with quality like 1971. With
the '89 vintage Christian Ebert is starting a program were half
the vintage is offered as Estate Riesling which in '89 will all
be declassified Kabinett. There are also 30 Fuders of Kabinett, 3
Fuders Spätlese plus Auslese, GKA and LGKA. 300 l BA (135
Öchsle), 150 l TBA (170 to 190 Öchsle at 12 gm/l acidity) and
150 l Eiswein (170 to 190 Öchsle at 18 gm/l acidity).
BERT SIMON
Bert Simon calls '89 the best vintage since
he's acquired the von Schorlemer properties in '68. Yield was
only 76 hl/ha because Simon only tied one bow on the vine instead
of the usual two. This was exactly the right thing to do in '89.
The wines break down to 28% Kabinett, 30% Spätlese, 40% Auslese
and 2% BA and TBA! Not only do the wines have very ripe,
botrytised fruit but also terrific acids for this ripeness. A
vintage of the century for this estate!
RHEINGAU
LANGWERTH VON SIMMERN
At 95 hl/ha the harvest was 20% above normal.
Best vintage of the eighties. Over 80% predicate wines with 25%
Spätleses and 3% Auseses, BAs and TBAs. Ausleses were produced
in the Eltviller Sonnenberg, Hattenheimer Mannberg and
Nussbrunnen. BAs in the Eltviller Sonnenberg, Rauenthaler Baiken,
Hattenheimer Mannberg and Nussbrunnen and TBA's in the
Hattenheimer Mannberg and Nussbrunnen and the Erbacher Marcobrunn
(190 Öchsle and 16.5 gm./l acidity).
GEORG BREUER
Best vintage since 1971. The harvest was very
labor intensive. It began 9/14 and was complete 10/22. Yield was
64 hl/ha. All wine below 78 Öchsle will be offered as QbA. All
wines through Spätlese will be offered in the dry style only.
The Ausleses, BA (Bischofsberg at 133 Öchsle and 8.8 gm/l
acidity) and TBA (Berg Rottland at 183 Öchsle and 11 gm/l) will
be offered in the fruity style.
PFALZ
PFEFFINGEN
Because of severe hail damage yield was barely
half of normal. Only predicate wines were made. because of a dire
need for Kabinett wines the harvest was started early and nothing
higher than Auslese was picked. The acid structure in these wines
is superb. For example, finished Kabinetts have 9.5 gm/l acidity.
Please reserve your Kabinetts early for they will surely be sold
out before year end 1990.
FRANKEN
WIRSCHING
Yield was 20% above normal with very ripe fruit
and good acid structure (lots of tartaric acid). Riesling from 84
to 87 Öchsle in the Julius Echter Berg and Kronsberg will all be
offered as Kabinett wines. For the Riesling variety 1988 was the
better vintage. Silvaner will be 85% QbA and 15% Kabinett.
Scheurebe brought QbA, Kabinett and
Spätlese. Traminer was harvested as an Auslese
only at 108 Öchsle. Pinot Gris started at Auslese; there was
also a BA and TBA (176 Öchsle at over 9 gm/l acidity). Müller
-Thurgau: QbA and Kabinett only.
NAHE
CRUSIUS
Yield was 10% above normal, with mustweights ranging from 74 to 114 Öchsle.
Peter and his father did not attempt to make BA's or TBA's. It simply
is not their style. They prefer good Ausleses to the really sweet wines.
All must below 79 Öchsle was chaptalized to 90-92 and becomes QbA. Botrytis
is very noticeable in the Ausleses but also in some Spätleses. Must acids
ranged from 8 gm/l to 1.3gm/l. The harvest was complete on 10/27/89. Best
vintage of the '80s decade.
SCHLOSSGUT DIEL
Even with 20% above normal yield the 1989 wines will be superb. Quality breakdown
is 17% QbA (Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc), 25% Kabinett, 25% Spätlese and
33% Auslese. Harvest from 9/25 to 10/13. Rieslings have acid levels of
10 gm/l, even the Pinot Gris (the finest I've ever tasted at Diel) has
9.2 gm/l acidity. The acids are very ripe i.e. lots of tartaric acid.
In 1989, Schlossgut Diel will offer a fruity style wine, an Auslese from
the Dorsheimer Goldloch (108 Öchsle, 10.8 gm/l acidity and 88 gm/l residual
sugar).
BADEN
SALWEY
Yield was 10% above normal. One of the best
vintages of the eighties. Riesling - 2/3 Kabinett and 1/3
Spätlese. Pinot Gris from Kabinett to TBA (160 + Öchsle at 9.5
gm/l acidity). Muskateller Spätlese, will probably sell as
Kabinett. Silvaner, Pinot Blanc and Gewürztraminer: Kabinett and
Spätlese, Müller-Thurgau: Kabinett and Spätlese but will sell
as Kabinett only. Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) from QbA to
Spätlese and the Pinot Noir Blanc to Auslese. Harvest was
complete 10/23/89.
DR. HEGER
Yield was 70 hl/ha or about 30% above normal.
Joachim judges the vintage a 9.5/10. He compares the whites to
the 1975s and the red wines possibly the best ever!! Silvaner
mostly Kabinett but 10% Spätlese from a plot of over 40 year old
vines. Scheurebe: 1000 l Auslese, 1000 l BA (145 Öchsle) and 280
l TBA (200 + Öchsle at 16.6 gm/l acidity fabulous wine)!
Traminer: 1000 l Auslese (119 Öchsle), Gewürztraminer: 520 l BA
(140 Öchsle) Müller-Thurgau all Kabinett. Riesling: 600 l of
fabulous Spätlese from the Winklerberg. Pinot Gris and Pinot
Blanc Kabinett and Spätlese. Exceptional Muskateller, Spätlese
only. Pinot Noir and Pinot Noir Blanc great!
WÜRTTEMBURG
GRAF ADELMANN
Yield was 15% above normal, very good acid
structure and high pH with the red wines. Harvest began 9/20 and
was complete by the last week in October. Riesling yield was 60
hl/ha and brought 1/3 Kabinett (85 Öchsle), 1/3 Spätlese (91
Öchsle) and 1/3 Auslese (102 Öchsle). Traminer came in at 90
Öchsle with 70 hl /ha. Could be offered as Kabinett or
Spätlese. Muskateller - only 30 hl/ha at 1/2 Kabinett and 1/2
Spätlese. Kerner - only Spätlese at 95 Öchsle. Lemberger -
only Spätlese. Samtrot only Spätlese at 90+ Öchsle. Clevner
QbA through Auslese at 100+ Öchsle. Trollinger QbA only. One of
the best vintages in the last 15 years.
RHEINHESSEN
GUNDERLOCH
Because of the unusually smaller tban normal
yields the 1989 harvest at 64 hl/ha was almost 40% above normal.
Breakdown of quality levels is 27.2% QbA, 17.5% Kabinett, 41.6%
Spätlese and 13.7% Auslese with 150 l TBA at 160+ Öchsle -
first Clever Riesling TBA produced at Gunderloch. Acid levels for
Riesling from 8.9 to 10.3 gm/l, for Silvaner 7.7 to 8.8 gm/l and
Müller-Thurgau 7.5 to 9.0 gm/l. Best vintage of the '80s.
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