Vintages

The 1992 Vintage in Germany

Overview:

Lovers of Riesling wines will be pleased once again. 1992 is yet another fine vintage that can be added to the trio of exceptional vintages 1988, 1989 and 1990. It was a vintage that produced great quantities of Eiswein harvested very late mostly in the last few days of December and the first few days of January (1993).

For example, the dates for flowering and begin of ripening (veraison) in 1992 are almost identical to 1989 and 1990 and significantly earlier than the wonderful 1975 vintage. To carry the analysis further, we find that the long term average temperature for a vintage in the Middle Mosel is 14.36⁰C. For the last four years 1989 and 1992 had the highest average temperature, 15.33⁰C. Both 1990 and 1991 had equal average temperatures of 14.97⁰C. Surprisingly 1991 had the highest total hours of sunshine, 1297, versus 1177, 1257 and 1272 for 1992, 1990 and 1989 respectively. However, 1991 also had the lowest rainfall, almost 70% less than 1992 and 1990. Timing, frequency and quantity of rain for each occurrence, the concurrent water maintenance of the vineyard, which in recent years has been severely impacted by the long drought in Europe, all are significant and hard to correlate factors that determine total extract and total acidity with its mix of malic, tartaric and trace acids that all contribute to the character of the vintage.

1992 was a vintage, where the alternation of sunshine and rainfall and the vegetative development of the vines was almost perfect. The bud break was excellent. Flowering was early and went smoothly. The grapes developed rapidly in the almost subtropical summer. Occasionally there were dramatic thundershowers and most notably on the Ruwer a very serious hailstorm disrupted the progress of the vintage and potentially a drastic reduction in yield. The warm, humid weather, also aided the development of mildew and powdered mildew. In some sites this caused the foliage to become prematurely inactive.

In the Middle Mosel, harvest began October 14 and everything pointed to another great vintage with must weights already at the upper end of Spätlese, or Auslese quality. However, the hoped for "Golden October" was short lived, followed by a long period of rain that started on October 21. This time those leaving large areas of vineyards to hang for late harvesting, were losers in the game of harvest poker. However, in areas where the harvest began earlier, such as Rheinhessen or Rheingau, most of the fruit was brought in before the rain. It is here that some truly great wines were produced. 1992 also produced enormous quantities of Eiswein in the last few days of December and first few days of January. Much of the Eiswein harvest was targeted for GKA's, BA's and TBA's but the rain simply would not allow it.

Initial tasting of about 300 wines showed very delicious, incredibly ripe wines.

Estates by region

MOSEL ­ SAAR ­ RUWER

DR. LOOSEN

Yield was above normal for Dr. Loosen at about 70hl/ha. Only 30% was QbA, the remainder QmP, about 20% Kabinett,31.5% Spätlese, 18% Auslese and the rest small quantities of BA in the Wehlener Sonnenuhr and the second Eiswein in a row in the Erdener Prälat (very rare). 60% was harvested before the rain, another 35% between 10/31 and 11/7. The harvest was complete by 11/13 with exception of the Eiswein. Tasted wines through GKA. Delicious, sappy, compact wines, with bright tropical fruit flavors balanced by very good, ripe acids.

MÖNCHHOF

With a yield of 80hl/ha the Mönchhof harvested only QmP wines with must weights ranging from 83 to 108 Öchsle. Acids are mostly tartaric ranging in the finished wines from 8.2 to 9gm/liter. Kabinetts are all declassified Ausleses and all Spätleses have mustweights of 90 Öchsle and above. Wines were tasted at an awkward stage. We reserve judgment until we retaste them in June!

J.J. PRÜM

Harvested 78hl/ha with 30% QbA and 70% QmP wines. Vintage was mostly Kabinett, with some Spätleses and Ausleses in the Sonnenuhr. On the days of 12/30,12/31 and 1/1/93, 1/2/93 about 300 liters of Eiswein at about 130 Öchsle was harvested mostly in the Sonnenuhr. This was fruit targeted for late harvest wines which the rains prevented. Tasted several Kabinett and Spätlese wines from barrel. The wines showed great purity, ripeness with tropical fruit and cassis and good acids to balance.

DR. F. WEINS­PRÜM

Harvested just shy of 80hl/ha with no QbA wines. QmP wines break down to 40% Kabinett, 40% Spätlese and 20% Auslese with mustweights ranging from 76 to 92 Öchsle with three Fuders of Kabinett at 74 and 75 Öchsle that were declassified for the Estate Riesling. On Sunday 1/3/93 110 liters of Eiswein at 137 Öchsle was harvested with almost 12gm/liter acidity. The wines here were simply incredible. Great ripeness, lots of tropical fruit, pure and balanced. Amongst the very best collection we tasted.

Wwe. DR. H. THANISCH

Harvested 85hl/ha with must weights ranging from 67 to 90 Öchsle. 40% of the harvest was QbA, the rest was 40% Kabinett and 20% Spätlese and Auslese (mostly in the Doctor vineyard). The wines showed great ripeness, with tropical fruit and good acids to balance. Acid levels in the finished wines ranged from 8.5 to 9 gm/Lit. in the finished wines with very high proportions of tartaric. The Dr. Thanisch Estate Riesling med­dry (1.6%) is a real winner.

FRITZ HAAG

Harvest near 80hl/ha with mustweights ranging from 79 to over 100 Öchsle. Acids and extracts above normal. Without the great BA harvested in 1975, Wilhelm likens most of his 1992 harvest to his great 1975 vintage. My "gut" tells me that these wines are even riper; they're absolutely stunning, delicious wines. Even the Mandelgraben Kabinett with 30% Müller­Thurgau, 50% Kerner and 20% Riesling is impressive. An impressive collection of wines.

REINHOLD HAART

Harvested over 90hl/ha with 44% QbA and 35% Kabinett, 10% Spätlese and 5% Auslese. Finished wines have over 9 gm/liter acidity with very high proportion of tartaric. Extracts are above average. Mustweights ranged from 70 to 95 Öchsle with musts below 76 Öchsle going to the Estate Riesling. On 12/30 Theo collected 80 liters of Eiswein at 198 Öchsle probably the highest mustweight for the region in 1992. The wines showed great purity with typical fruit of peaches for Piesport.

MILZ ­ LAURENTIUSHOF

Harvested only 70hl/ha with mustweights ranging from 70 to 114 Öchsle. Must acids ranged from 10 to 13 gm/liter with acids in the finished wines from 9.3 to 10.5 gm/liter. The harvest breaks down to 10% QbA (Kabinett declassified for Estate Riesling), 15% Kabinett, 40% Spätlese and 35% Auslese. Harvested three Eiswines, two in the Felsenkopf and one in the Apotheke. A new cellarmaster produced very bright, delicious wines. The wines are flowery, have good depth, peaches and tropical fruit and show lots of life on the palate.

KARTHÄUSERHOF

After the hail storm the outlook was bleak with initial estimates for losses at almost 85%. But the vines recovered nicely and the harvest brought almost 70hl/ha with 55% QbA, 11% Kabinett, 32% Spätlese and 2% Auslese. Must acids 10 to 12 gm/liter and 9 to 10 gm/liter in the finished wine. Typical aggressive, nervy, minerally Ruwer wines. The Spätleses tasted ripe with cassis and tropical fruit, but lively.

PIEDMONT

Harvest was 98hl/ha with 20% QbA and 80% QmP wines. The QmP wines break down to 60% Kabinett (74 to 76 Öchsle) and 40% Spätlese (80 to 83 Öchsle). Extracts were high. Must acids from 10 to 12 gm/liter and in the finished wines from 8.8 to 10 gm/liter. Could not taste any 1992s.

von HÖVEL

Harvest was 75hl/ha with 30% QbA, 65% Kabinett and 5% Spätlese. Finished acids between 9 to 10 gm/liter with very high proportion of tartaric. Wines from the Hütte had great harmony between fruit and acid. Bright, pure Kabinett, a super Spätlese and another great edition of the Balduin Estate Riesling. Von Kunow compares the vintage to 1988.

EGON MÜLLER­SCHARZHOF

Harvested 70hl/ha with most of the must ranging from 70 to 80 Öchsle. 1992 marks the first time that Estate Rieslings were produced in both the Scharzhof and at Le Gallais. The production was mostly Kabinett and some Spätlese. A very good Auslese was also produced probably for the Trier Auction. In the last week of December some Eiswein was produced but not of the quality of either the great 1973 or 1983 Eisweins. No 1992 wines were tasted.

DR. FISCHER

A plentiful harvest with over 100hl/ha with must acids from 10 to 13 gm/liter. 55% was QbA with the 45% QmP wines consisting of 2/3 Kabinett and 1/3 Spätlese. The last week of December brought 350 liters of Eiswein at 146 Öchsle with 13 gm/liter acidity. The wines tasted were pure, ripe, had good depth with lots of Cassis in the Spätlese fruit. The finished wines had over 9 gm/liter acidity with a high proportion of tartaric.

ZILLIKEN

Over 90hl/ha was harvested with 40% QbA ( small Kabinetts ), 35% Kabinett, 20% Spätlese and 5% of Auslese quality. An early frost in the Rausch on 10/14 destroyed most of the foliage on the vines, preventing further significant gains in mustweight. A TBA quality Eiswein was harvested at ­10⁰ C on 12/30. Tasted both a Rausch Kabinett and Spätlese; both show good potential with clean, bright flavors with hints of grapefruit and Cassis. Extracts are above normal and the acids are very ripe. It is interesting to note that even with the high yields the extract values are quite good. This is due to good water maintenance in the vineyards resulting from the good levels of rainfall in 1992. Hanno Zilliken compares the vintage to 1973.

SCHLOSS SAARSTEIN

Harvested 78hl/ha with 50% QbA, 35% Kabinett, 14% Spätlese and 1% Auslese. 100 liters of Eiswein (140 ­ 150 Öchsle) was made in the last week of December. Must acids ranged from 9 to 11.5 gm/liter; during fermentation the loss was only 0.5 to 1.0 gm/liter. The acids contain lots of tartaric. 1992 produced classic Schloss Saarstein wines ­ minerally, pure Rieslings with good ripeness. The Spätlese shows Cassis and tropical fruit. Also produced 750 Lit. of a superb Auslese, harvested at 98 Öchsle; it has very rich, ripe flavors with apricot and Cassis fruit, it tastes sappy and long.

BERT SIMON

The harvest yielded 70hl/ha with 30% QbA, 20% Kabinett and 50% Spätlese. The estate again achieved the highest average mustweight on the Saar with lots of wine harvested at 90 Öchsle. Finished acids are very ripe and range from 8 to 9 gm/liter. The hailstorm on the Ruwer resulted in great losses in the two Kaseler properties, Kehrnagel and Nieschen. After the hail a fungus (Pseudopeziza tracheiphila) attacked the foliage causing additional damage. The Serriger Rieslings are compact with good depth and spice. My favorite was the Würtzberg Spätlese ­ lively, nervy, has grip with bright, tropical fruit, spicy, sappy with good length.

SCHLOSS LIESER

Starting with the 1992 vintage this estate is under the direction of Thomas Haag, Wilhelm's oldest son. Thomas made impressive wines his first year out of Geisenheim at Bert Simon. Because we think so highly of his skills we'll be adding Schloss Lieser to our portfolio. Primary holdings for the estate are in Lieser ­ Suessenberg, Schlossberg and Niederberg ­ Helden, with additional holdings in Graach and Bernkastel. 1992 yielded 75hl/ha with mustweights ranging from 65 to 96 Öchsle. Musts below 73 Öchsle are used for the Schloss Lieser Estate Riesling. Acid levels are good (8.5 to 9 gm/liter) and very ripe. Tasted some nice Kabinetts from the Graacher Himmelreich and the Niederberg ­ Helden. The Spätleses showed delicious tropical fruit. The highlight of the harvest was 300 liters of Auslese picked at 96 Öchsle in the Suessenberg ­ fine, elegant Riesling, Cassis, Passionfruit, sappy with great length. Thomas feels the potential for better wines is there. However, it'll take several years before the vineyards are in top shape.

RHEINGAU

FRANZ KÜNSTLER

The Pinot Noir harvest came in at 55hl/ha with mustweights reaching 98 Öchsle. For the Riesling the yield was almost 80hl/ha with quality levels up to TBA brought in at 181 Öchsle. Pinot Noir will be offered as either QbA or Spätlese (all Kabinett level must was declassified to QbA); the young wines showed classic cherry and chocolate flavors with good depth and nice soft tannins. The Riesling exhibited bright and pure flavors with peaches, apricots and tropical fruit. I tasted and reserved one of finest dry Rieslings I've ever tasted, an Auslese from the Hölle. There are also two great fruity Ausleses from the Hölle and Reichestal at 114 and 120 Öchsle respectively. An Eiswein at 145 Öchsle. was harvested on 12/30. The Künstlers feel that 1992 is probably their finest vintage ever.

VON SIMMERN

Harvest began 10/5 and, with the exception of an Eiswein picked at TBA quality in the Baiken on 12/30, was complete on 10/27. The yield was 79hl/ha with 15% QbA (72 ­ 76 Öchsle), 42% Kabinett ( 79 ­ 88 Öchsle), 41% Spätlese (89 ­ 99 Öchsle), and 2% up to TBA (100 ­ 190 Öchsle). Tasted Nussbrunnen Kabinett and Sonnenberg Spätlese both classic racy Rheingau Rieslings with pure, white peaches fruit. A Marcobrunn Auslese showed fine botrytis with apricots and honey, very compact, elegant and long.

AUGUST ESER

Harvested 80hl/ha, only QmP wines. However, 15% will be declassified to QbA; the remainder of the harvest breaks down to 35% Kabinett, 42% Spätlese and 8% Auslese. Mustweights ranged to 110 Öchsle; 150 Lit. of Eiswein was picked 12/29 at 145 Öchsle. Acids are between 9 and 10 gm/liter and have a very high proportion of tartaric. The wines tasted from barrel and tanks were sensational. The Lenchen Kabinett had bright, aggressive white peaches fruit ­ even better than the superb 1990; the Doosberg Spätlese is very fine with bright fruit of apricots and honey. Finally the Rothenberg Spätlese showed great purity and breed with apricots and peaches fruit, juicy, refreshing and long.

GEORG BREUER

Over the past few vintages there has been significant improvement at this estate. Yield of the 1992 harvest was only 59hl/ha and mostly Spätlese. There was also an Auslese and Beerenauslese picked in both the Bischofsberg and Berg Rottland. On 12/27 Riesling Eiswein was also harvested in the Bischofsberg. All wines harvested in newly classified "First Growth" vineyards will be offered as Charta wines. Bernard Breuer believes that with the 1992 vintage the Rheingau will begin to show "First Growth" on the labels. There is a preliminary agreement that these wines will not be released until two years after the harvest. Bernard compares the 1992 vintage to 1990.

PFALZ

PFEFFINGEN

Harvested over 90hl/ha even though the estate greatly thinned the bunches in August. Mustweights less than 84 Öchsle were used for the Estate Riesling. Riesling Kabinetts were harvested from 84 to 92 Öchsle and Spätleses from 92 to 100 Öchsle. Acids in the finished wines ranged from 8 to 9 gm/Lit. and are very ripe. Riesling also produced a BA with 250 Lit. picked at 150 Öchsle. Scheurebe Spätlese was harvested at 106 Öchsle. with finished acids of 6.8 gm/liters. Scheurebe also produced a TBA and an Eiswein ( 12/29 ) both over 160 Öchsle. The Rieslings are racy with pure peaches and apricot fruit, the Scheurebe produced rich and powerful wines with grapefruit and leechy fruit. There is also a very good Gewürztraminer Spätlese.

FRANKEN

WIRSCHING

Mustweights and yields varied significantly according to varietal. For the Silvaner, the average yield was 85hl/ha with mustweights from 72 to 125 Öchsle and a breakdown of 40% QbA, 45% Kabinett, 12% Spätlese and 3% Auslese; acids ranged from 5.5 to 7 gm/liter. Riesling yield was 75hl/ha with mustweights from 88 to 115 Öchsle; 97% was Spätlese and 3% Auslese (some of the Spätlese will be declassified to Kabinett); acids from 8 to 9.5 gm/Lit.. Scheurebe yield was in excess of 80hl/ha and mustweights ranged from 82 to 115 Öchsle with a breakdown of 40% Kabinett, 57% Spätlese and 3% Auslese; acids from 6.5 to 7.5 gm/liter. Rulaender (Pinot Gris) yielded only 65hl/ha with musts from 102 to 132 Öchsle; acids were 6.5 gm/liters and there was 89% Spätlese and 11% BA. A first harvest of newly planted Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) produced a meager 15hl/ha at 115 Öchsle; all Auslese with 8 gm/Lit. acidity. In the last week of December a TBA quality Ehrenfelser Eiswein was made. A Kronsberg Müller­Thurgau Kabinett was typical ­ flowery, nervy and pure; a Kronsberg Riesling Spätlese was racy, sappy, clean and balanced. The vintage here is comparable to the 1983 vintage in Franken.

NAHE

CRUSIUS

Riesling harvest was about 70hl/ha. Mustweights from the normal harvest ranged from 72 to 118 Öchsle. A great portion of the harvest is Spätlese and Auslese. Even the Rotenfels Kabinett has 84 Öchsle. Mustweights lower than 80 Öchsle were declassified to QbA wine. On 12/30 140 liters Riesling Eiswein at 210 ­ 220 Öchsle was harvested in the Rotenfels ­ a record mustweight for the estate. All the Rotenfels wines are outstanding exhibiting ripe, tropical fruit with great purity. Acid and extract levels are very good which is reflected in depth of flavor and liveliness on the palate. For me 1992 is the best vintage at Crusius since we started to represent the estate in 1986. Hans Crusius compares the vintage to 1959.

SCHLOSSGUT DIEL

1992 was the greatest Eiswein harvest in the history of the estate; 800 liters was picked between 152 and 186 Öchsle on 12/30 and 12/31. Yours truly was along on 12/31! The general harvest at Diel yielded only 62hl/ha, only half of what the Nahe region produced. 1/3 of the harvest was QbA (declassified Kabinett and Spätlese), 1/3 Spätlese, 1/3 Auslese. Pinot Gris achieved the highest mustweight at 110 Öchsle. There was plenty of Riesling picked at over 100 Öchsle. Acids range from 8.5 to 9.5 gm/liter with very high proportions of tartaric. The new wines all exhibit good ripeness, great purity, peaches and honey fruit and are refreshing and long on the palate.

RHEINHESSEN

GUNDERLOCH

A vintage of the century! Across the board the finest 1992 harvest we encountered. The minimum mustweight for Riesling was 88 Öchsle; it was only good enough for the 23% QbA; the remainder was 26% Spätlese and 51% Auslese or higher. Some of these were declassified for the Gunderloch Kabinetts ­ the semi­dry and the Jean Baptiste (at 98 Öchsle). The Rothenberg also brought a BA at 131 Öchsle and two TBAs at 182 and 230 Öchsle. Must acids ranged from 10 to 12 gm/liter and will end up at 9 to 9.5 gm/liter in the finished Rieslings. As everywhere the acids are very ripe. The estate also made superb wines with Silvaner, Scheurebe, Gewürztraminer and a Pinot Gris Auslese harvested at 117 Öchsle. The young wines exhibit exotic, tropical fruit, also peaches, apricots, Cassis and almonds ­ very aggressive, intense young wines.

BADEN

SALWEY

The harvest averaged about 70hl/ha. The Silvaner reached 92 Öchsle except for the Eiswein harvested on 12/29 at 148 Öchsle. Both the Riesling and the Pinot Blanc topped out at 95 Öchsle. The Pinot Gris got to 115 Öchsle and the Vin Gris from the Pinot Noir got to 98 Öchsle. The Pinot Noir brought 1400 liters at 110 Öchsle. The acids contain lots of tartaric and range from 6 to 7 gm/liter, with the Riesling about 1 gm/liter higher. Very impressive Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc wines and the Pinot Noir shows great promise.

DR. HEGER & WEINHAUS HEGER

Yields varied from 65 to 75 hl/ha for the various varietals. Since there are nine different varietals grown at both Weinhaus and Dr. Heger we'll address those of primary interest. For Weinhaus Heger Silvaner, Müller­Thurgau, Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris will be mostly Kabinett even though there is plenty of Spätlese must in these wines. For Dr. Heger the Silvaner also reached Kabinett level, Pinot Blanc produced superb Spätleses at 103 Öchsle. Two tanks will be blended together to yield 1250 cases. Pinot Gris produced very concentrated Spätleses in both the Winklerberg and the Achkarrer Schlossberg ­ powerful wines that taste of gooseberry, melons, honey and straw with great length. There is also a Pinot Gris Auslese at 116 Öchsle ­ at this stage awkward and powerful. Two BAs were produced from Scheurebe at 135 Öchsle and Gewürztraminer at 147 Öchsle. For Pinot Noir, Joachim feels, that the overall quality in 1992 is even higher than in 1990.

WÜRTTEMBERG

GRAF ADELMANN

The harvest yielded above average quantity with 75hl/ha for the Riesling and up to 90hl/ha for other varietals. The Riesling Kabinetts tasted of apples and gooseberries. A Spätlese picked at 96 Öchsle tasted ripe and pure and showed excellent potential. For Riesling the acids ranged between 7 and 8 gm/liters, with almost 100% tartaric. The '92 Traminer Kabinett is refreshing, tastes of grapefruit and has elegance and finesse. Of the red varietals the Clevner (Fruehburgunder) was most successful with an Auslese harvested at 102 Öchsle.