Vintages

The 1993 Vintage in Germany

Overview:

With a string of superb vintages starting in 1988 and another great vintage in 1993 this report is almost becoming superfluous. 1993, is in fact such a superb vintage that it will rival 1990, and in some cases exceed its quality. Our initial barrel tastings in January showed very ripe, concentrated wines with a firm fruity acid backbone.

The following two tables showed comparative weather and phenological data for the Middle-Mosel.

Table 1 : Middle Mosel weather data for the months April to October.

Table 2 : Phenological data for Riesling on the Middle Mosel

*Earliest Flowering of record

From the Riesling Notes of the Grosse Ring here is what happened in the vineyards in 1993:

"The start of the 1993 vegetation period was marked by extremely dry conditions after an arid spring with below average precipitation (120mm compared with the long term average of 188mm). Above average temperatures in April (12.3 ⁰C/54.1F compared with the norm of 9.3 ⁰C/48.7F) led to an early bud break in many areas, as much as eight days earlier than the historical average. Favorable weather in May (two degrees warmer than usual as well as 77.4mm of rain fall compared with a norm of 60.6mm) fostered rapid growth and good fruit set for the Riesling grape. Flower clusters began to blossom by the end of May. The good weather held, flowering was quick, and at this stage, vegetation was 16-18 days ahead of schedule. Negligible precipitation between early June and Mid July curbed growth and in may sites, particularly those with young plantings, there was some damage due to the water deficit. Relief came on July 19th, with much needed rainfall. The grapes thrived during the sunny and relatively good weather in August, resulting in another unusually early start of the ripening process. Abundant rainfall in September and showers nearly every day through mid October led to an early onset of rot in some cases, thereby lowering initial expectations. Nevertheless, the cool wet weather did less damage than anticipated. In good, steep Riesling sites, members of the Grosse Ring achieved must weights almost exclusively in the Spaetlese- and Auslese range, with an excellent fruity acidity. Later, Botrytis-affected grapes also were harvested by a few estates - a just reward for their patience."

In the Mosel - Saar- Ruwer region this was a significantly better vintage than 1992. Lower yields and very stable, high acids were factors that contributed to this improved quality. In top sites the vintage produced superb late harvest wines. Some estates in the Rheingau and Rheinhessen even surpassed the quality of the 1992s. Franken had the finest vintage since 1971. In Baden, Württemberg (by a considerable margin), Pfalz and Nahe also bettered the 92s.

Estates by region

MOSEL - SAAR- RUWER

SCHLOSS LIESER

Great wines! Lowest must weight of 83 Öchsle (Auslese) was only good enough for the Estate Riesling. There will be no Kabinett wines. All Spätleses are declassified Auslese. There are lots of Ausleses, BAs and a TBA. Look especially for the wines from the Niederberg Helden property. Yield was 31 hl/ha less than half of '92 harvest. Wines have great depth and concentration, lots of tropical fruit with good back bone.

DR. LOOSEN

Ernie thinks his '93s are even better than his '90s ! Harvest was less than 50hl/ha with over 80% in the Auslese domain. There will be much declassification, but everything from Estate Riesling to GKA's, BA (Wehlener Sonnenuhr), TBA's (Wehlener Sonnenuhr and Ürziger Würzgarten) and Eiswein (Bernkasteler Lay) will be offered. The high end Auslese and up have very fine botrytis and firm acids. Very concentrated wines, bright, sappy with tropical fruit

J.J. PRÜM

Yield was about 60hl/ha, mostly predicate wines including BA, TBA and Eiswein. Manfred likes the concentration and acid structure of the wines and feels the quality is pretty close to the great 1990s. The wines were not ready to taste.

DR. WEINS-PRÜM

Yield was just below 70hl/ha with 15% QbA (Spätlese must weight), 35% Kabinett, 35% Spätlese and 15% Auslese. Acid in the finished wines to 9.3gal/l along with high sugar free extracts. Apples and peaches in Kabinett and Spätleses, crossing to peaches and tropical fruit in the Ausleses.

DR. THANISCH

Yield of 70hl/ha with 50% Spätlese and 30% Auslese; the rest is Kabinett and Estate Riesling. The Eiswein will probably be merged with the GKA. The wines were not ready for tasting.

FRITZ HAAG

Yield again about 70hl/ha with over 60% of the harvest Auslese. With declassification there will be 25% QbA, 20% Kabinett, 35% Spätlese and 20% Auslese including GKA and LGKA. We suspect there are also BA, and TBA. Extracts are high and acids very high. The Juffer Sonnenuhr Kabinett had 10.2 gm/l acid with 28 gm/l extract - passion fruit, white peaches great depth and balance, one of the small Auslese had great richness, juicy - a tropical fruit basket. Wilhelm likens the vintage to his great 76's but with much better acid structure.

REINHOLD HAART

Yield - 67 hl/ha with 16% Kabinett, 44% Spätlese, 34 % Auslese and the rest GKA, BA, TBA and Eiswein. The grapes harvested last were loaded with botrytis but still good acids. Tasted some classic Goldtröpfchen Kabinett, Spätlese and Auslese - peaches with hints of cassis, pure, vibrant wines.

MILZ

Could not taste and visit with Markus. He was on vacation. His vintage report has 90 % of the harvest predicate wines with 10% Kabinett, 20 % Spätlese and 60% Auslese with a yield of 60 hl/ha. A BA was produced in the Leiterchen. He compares his '93s favorably with his 1990s.

KARTHÄUSERHOF

Harvest yield was 60hl/ha . Must weights to 140 Öchsle. Acids in the finished wines to 10gm/l. The wines compare favorably to the fine '90s. Very compact wines, with depth and the typical nerve of the Karthäuserhof Rieslings. Ripe on the palate, peaches, cassis and in the Auslese very fine botrytis that reminds of apricots and honey. Good extracts and lively acids. A superb collection!

PIEDMONT

Yield was a very low 48hl/ha 17% Kabinett and 83% Spätlese. Again good extract and very high acids. The Pulchen Spätlese had typical pear/peaches fruit, bright, clean and very fine. Klaus declassified all his Ausleses to Spätlese.

VON HÖVEL

Only 40hl/ha, with a superb collection of wines. Average must weight close to 85 Öchsle. High extracts with acids in the finished wines 10gm/l. Kabinett and Spätleses have typical peach /pear flavors of a ripe vintage. Ausleses show nuances of cassis with fine botrytis. There'll be a superb GKA at 140 Öchsle and a TBA quality Eiswein. Probably exceeds quality of the 90s.

DR. FISCHER

Yield of 45hl/ha with mostly Spätleses and Auslese. Again high extracts and acids. All the wines are declassified at least one level. Peaches, pears with hints of apricots in the Ausleses. Bright, lively classic Saar Rieslings.

ZILLIKEN

Yield below 50hl/ha. Highest average must weight since 1983. There is virtually no QbA only 10% Kabinett and the rest evenly split between Spätlese and Auslese. A very fine BA of near TBA quality was produced in the Rausch. Even Kabinett and Spätlese have hints of cassis, the Auslese have very fine botrytis and almost 10gm/l acidity. Best wines since Hanno's famed '83s.

SCHLOSS SAARSTEIN

Yield of 50hl/ha with must weights ranging from 76 to 185 Öchsle. A lot of it will be declassified to Estate Riesling and Kabinett. Only 30% will be offered as Spätlese and Auslese. There is a very fine BA (150l) and two TBA quality Eisweins. The wines showed pear / cassis fruit with the typical Saarstein mineral nuance. Christian compares the '93s favorably to his great 1990s.

BERT SIMON

55hl/ha with must weights from 70 to 90 Öchsle which will be offered as Kabinett and Spätlese only ( there are still plenty of Auslese and BAs from previous vintages). The wines are ripe, full with peaches/cassis fruit. Bert compares the wines favorably to his '90s but without the high end.

RHEINGAU

ROBERT WEIL

What a great collection the '92s were, but the '93s are even better! Yields were below 35hl/ha with must weights ranging from 83 to 220 Öchsle. Acids and extracts are very high. Multiple selection, often seven to ten passed through the vineyards, brought incredible quality. While tasting through the '93 collection we compared selected wines to the '92's and it was clear that the '93s had a leg up. For example, there are 2400l of '93 Gräfenberg Auslese at 126 Öchsle - rich BA like wine, white peaches and apricots, elegant and filigreed, has weight and depth but still "dances!."

FRANZ KÜNSTLER

Yield of 70hl/ha with must weights to over 100 Öchsle. Acids in the finished wines range from 8.2 to 10.3 gm/l. Extracts are high. There is a terrific Herrenberg Kabinett (over 29gm/l extract), the Reichestal Spätlese is a winner, and there is another great Hölle Auslese dry.

VON SIMMERN

A yield of 68hl/ha which corresponds to the average of the last ten years. Musts ranged form 78 Öchsle to over 170 Öchsle (harvested on 12/1 in the Marcobrunn). Only Predicate wines with 25% Kabinett, 70% Spätlese, and the remainder Auslese and up. 93's are big, compact wines. No wines were ready for tasting.

AUGUST ESER

Yield of 80hl/ha with must weights from 80 to 110 Öchsle. Extracts are high; acids in finished wines average 8.5 gm/l. Half Kabinett and half Spätlese, with small amounts of Auslese which will probably be vinified dry. Bigger wines than the 92's but possibly not as fine. Most of the wines were not finished and quite difficult to taste. The Rothenberg wines showed their typical raciness and spice, with loads of peaches and apricots.

Pfalz

PFEFFINGEN

Harvest yielded 55 hl/ha. Lowest must weight for Riesling was 94 Öchsle delivering 8.5gm/l acidity to the finished wines. Lots of Spätlese and Auslese with the typical peaches and apricot fruit; bright and elegant Riesling's. The Scheurebe also brought fantastic wines with typical leechy but also cassis fruit. In general, a vintage of superb Spätleses, highly extracted wines, with lots of stuff and depth.

FRANKEN

WIRSCHING

Phenomenal vintage. This is the best since 1971. Only the very best 90's can compare, yield was only 48 hl/ha with acids and extracts very good. Mueller-Thurgau - 18% Kabinett, 80% Spätlese and 2% Auslese, Silvaner - 15% Kabinett, 83% Spätlese, and 2% Auslese (over 100,000 l Spätlese in excess of 100 Öchsle), Scheurebe - 95% Spätlese, 5% BA, Riesling - 98% Spätlese and 2% BA. Must weights ranged from 88 to 158 Öchsle. The Julius Echter Berg Silvaner Spätlese is the finest I have ever tasted.

NAHE

CRUSIUS

59 hl/ha with must weights from 76 to 127 Öchsle. Small quantity of Rotenfels Eiswein at 180 Öchsle with 17 gm/l acidity was also harvested. Extracts above average with finished acids from 7.8 to 8.7 gm/l for the Riesling wines. The Rotenfels Spätlese is very pure, vibrant with peaches and almonds, racy and filigree. The Rotenfels BA (bottled in 500ml) is pure apricots, fine, rich, with good depth.

SCHLOSSGUT DIEL

Great collection of 93's. Yield of 44 hl/ha, must weights from 80 to 180 Öchsle. Acids and extracts very high. The Estate and Goldloch Rieslings are declassified Spätleses. Superb Ausleses, GKA, Eiswein, Goldcap Eiswein, and Goldcap BA round out this marvelous collection. Very pure, bright, almost essence of Nahe Rieslings.

RHEINHESSEN

GUNDERLOCH

Yield was 32 hl/ha with very high extracts and acids. Must weights from 88 to 215 Öchsle. The wines are more concentrated and as a collection will exceed the quality of the great 92's. For example, there are 2000 l Rothenberg GKA at 128 Öchsle - apricots, tropical fruit, cassis, honey and at the same time a very vibrant wine 10.5 gm/l acid. There are BA's from Mueller-Thurgau , Gewürztraminer, Riesling, and of course another great Riesling TBA. The Estate Riesling was harvested at over 90 Öchsle, it will not be chaptalized. Amazing wines!.

BADEN

SALWEY

Yield of 62 hl/ha with must weights for the various varietals ranging form 78 - 84 Öchsle for the Müller-Thurgau, 75 - 84 Öchsle for Silvaner, 80 - 160 Öchsle for Riesling (includes Eiswein at 160 Öchsle and 12 gm/l acid), 82 - 98 Öchsle for Pinot Blanc and 82 - 106 Öchsle for Pinot Gris. Acids and extracts are both above average. Pinot Noir and Pinot Noir Blanc (Vin Gris) from 78 - 96 Öchsle. The Estate Müller-Thurgau is fresh, clean and refreshing. The Henkenberg Pinot Gris has depth, melons, gooseberries, clean and balanced - the wine has fire.

DR. HEGER

Harvested 53hl/ha with the Müller-Thurgau 100% Kabinett (80 to 85 Öchsle) 6.5gm/l Acid, Silvaner 100% Kabinett (85-88 Öchsle) 6.5gm/l Acid, Pinot Blanc 100% Spätlese (94 - 102 Öchsle, 6.5 gm/l acid), Pinot Gris 100% Spätlese (100 Öchsle plus, 6.7 gm/l acid), except for Freiburger Schlossberg which produced only Kabinett, Riesling 80% Kabinett (83 - 90 Öchsle, 8.5 gm/l acid) and 20% Spätlese (93 Öchsle, 8.0 gm/l acid). There are BA's from Scheurebe and Gewürztraminer. Pinot Noir is one 1/3 QbA and 2/3 Spätlese. The Winklerberg Pinot Gris Spätlese is very compact, has richness, almonds, melons with a hint of honey, has layers.

WEINHAUS HEGER

Harvest yielded 65 hl/ha almost 140,000l total. Pinot Noir produced 62% QbA and 38% Spätlese a total of 48,000l. Pinot Blanc - 100% Kabinett at 90 Öchsle, 7.5 gm/l acid, Pinot Gris - 100% Kabinett at 92 - 94 Öchsle, 6.4 gm/l acid, and Mueller-Thurgau - 100% Kabinett 80 - 84 Öchsle, 5.5 gm/l acids. Wines have a great purity and balance, and are great value. Great wines for the one-premise environment.

WÜRTTEMBERG

GRAF ADELMANN

The harvest yielded 45 hl/ha with 69% predicate wines. The highlights are a Clevener (Pinot Blanc) Auslese, Lemberger Spätlese, Riesling Spätlese, Riesling Auslese, and Traminer Auslese. Graf Michael feels that the vintage compares favorably to the 1971 , 1979 and 1990 vintages. The Traminer Kabinett - fresh, lively, balanced wine that reminds me of the successful 1990. Riesling Auslese tastes of passion fruit, stinging nettles pure and bright. The Traminer Auslese is big, yet elegant, nice grapefruit, amazingly alive wine for the level of acid (4.5 gm/l). The reds are some of the best we have ever tasted here. The Trollinger is light but shows amazing concentration on the palate with bitter almond and strawberry fruit.